I hate writing this story. Not because of anything West Virginia did, but because of what West Virginia is. You see West Virginia is unspoiled. She’s friendly; the natural beauty of both her citizens and the lands that lie within her borders hasn’t been spoiled by hoards of travelers scrambling to, “get there first.” It matters not if you are arriving from the North or the South, what greets you as you ride into her welcoming embrace are well maintained roads and people whose attitudes toward the traveler are not jaded by the huge uncaring influx of people demanding to be, “taken care of first.”
West Virginia is a state struggling to keep her young people home. The factories that once supplied the majority of the work shut down and the children of West Virginia are leaving, looking for jobs to support their new families. It’s time to look at what West Virginia has to offer on the “outside” of her…rather than on the inside of her rocky valleys. Coal mines are here in West Virginia, but why ravage her beauty, when you can take advantage of it and attract tourists?
West Virginia is going after the tourist industry in a big way…and they are doing it by reclaiming the ruined mined lands and turning them into ATV Trails…. also by advertising their best assets, such as the beautiful ski and snow boarding trails in the Snowshoe area, the scenic roads through the farming area to the south. In the central eastern portion of the state, the land boasts of great Civil War history, with landmarks, memorials and architecture. Grand mansions, small historic towns, and railroads abide!
Recently West Virginia played host to 12 moto-journalists…We came from all different motorcycling backgrounds and interests. It was a strange crew, some motley, others quite well kempt, and all of us were looking for something new and wonderful to write about. Let’s face it…we all love motorcycling, but sometimes we need a change of pace. It's a blast to find and write about something and some place we haven’t seen before, new experiences, new friends, new reasons to love what we do and the motorcycles that provide for our lusts, needs and devotions.
We moto-journalists met at the Marriot in Charleston W.V. Our hostess, Jane Bostic of the West Virginia Tourism Board herded us into a saloon, where we soon headed for dinner at the award-winning restaurant in the Marriot Hotel.
Before dinner service began, we listened to the lofty goals the state set for itself and our roles in this grand tourism scheme. Of course, their jobs are to show us the state in such a favorable light, that we could not possibly write anything unsavory… Our job is to write whatever we see and experience as the events pass before us. The die was cast and all accepted our roles. For good, bad or indifferent, we were all here to experience what West Virginia offered us.
DAY TWO: BREAKFAST AT THE GOVERNOR’S MANSION…BIKERS AND SUITS!
Thursday morning found us bikers suited alongside our iron horses at the crack of dawy…it was to be the only morning we could count on everyone being able to attend the early morning call to arms, and ready to leave within a reasonable time frame for our appointed hour.
Our duty was to gain entry to the Governor’s Mansion…THROUGH THE FRONT GATES! Amazing, and it was easy thanks to our host, (Jane) and our tour guide, Joe Tyree. Do you think they would actually let a leather clad, Harley riding horde of journalists through the gates of Government without first arranging it with security?
Pulling up to the front of the mansion, parking in the circular drive, we dismounted, took pictures and made our way to the front door, where we were greeted by the woman who looks after the mansion. I didn’t catch her name. I’m sorry, she led us on a tour of the public parts of the mansion, then led us to the dining area. It was here, we all sat down at the trough with the Governor’s Chief of Staff, Larry Puccio.
There was some lively conversation between the journalists and Larry…You see, Mr. Puccio AND the Governor of West Virginia are avid motorcyclists, and while they are not able to ride as often as they would like, you can bet you will see the Governor and his State Police detail riding the roads and enjoying the best of West Virginia from time to time!
A fine meal it was, but it was over, and Larry headed for his office, and it was time to ride. We marched to our waiting steeds. We were all very excited. We knew our destination wasn't far, just a bit down the highway. We would trade our Fat Boys and Road Kings for side-by-side ATV’s, two wheeled dirt bikes, or four wheeled balloon tired ATV’s.
We were scheduled to meet at “The Little Coal River Trailhead.” We took Route 119 out of Charleston toward Danville and Madison and you came upon the Ranger Station for the trails (28 Big Pinnacle Branch RD. Julian WV. 25529). This particular trailhead allowed us to run a tad over 41 miles of trails…and is commonly known for having the highest percentage of, “easy,” or blue trails!
They took us crazy biker journalists for a bone crashing, eyeball rattling 25-mile, “easy,” trail tour…there were two causalities by the end of the tour…nothing serious…but what would you expect from 12 people chained to desks and laptops more days than not? Yes folks, we did have an excellent time on the trails! I would encourage anyone to find out more about West Virginia’s extensive off-road trail system by clicking on this link! They have the largest ATV and dirt bike trail system on the East Coast…and the trails are rated best in safety all around! Please visit their website: www.trailsheaven.com/ .
By the way, did I tell you the Rangers fed us lunch while we were at their station? I think the wives and girlfriends did double duty to make sure we had enough to eat, drink, and be merry… West Virginia is one of the friendliest States I have ever had the pleasure to ride in!
Folks, the day wasn't over yet…but my tales for this installment are…coming up in the next installment: White Water Rafting, Boy Scouts, VIP housing, bus tours, BBQ feasts, and Snow Shoe Mountain. Believe me…the riding only gets better from here!
Part II in Wild West Virginia
When I last left you, I thought we were ready to straddle saddles and ride. I was wrong. I have much to tell you about the Hatfield and McCoy Trails. I’d like you to take a few minutes to explain why I like to say: “This is the most fun I’ve had on four wheels!”
The time I spent visiting the Hatfield and McCoy Trails System at Little Coal River, allowed me to learn there are presently over 500 miles of trails belonging to the Hatfield and McCoy Trails System. It’s the year 2009 and five counties of the projected nine now have trails running though them. Each of the six trail systems are open 365 days a year, and buying a yearly permit to ride the trails, whether you are a resident of West Virginia or not is an inexpensive endeavor, well worth the effort of pulling out your wallet. Permits for residents are $50.00 bucks a year…and not much more for non-residents!
Currently, there are six trails to choose from: They are: Rockhouse, Buffalo Mountain, Bearwallow, Indian Ridge, Little Coal, and Pinnacle Creek. I’ve included links so you can follow them, and learn more about this truly wonderful trail system, the 2nd largest in the U.S. The first largest on the Eastern Seaboard, and the Safest in the country!
It was a fantastic ride from the trailhead to the Songer Whitewater Rafting home port. Narrow, dirt two lane roads meander through, what was once rough coal country. Later gentle rolling hills became farms. We passed through classic dinky coal towns, small lumber bergs, and sprawling farming communities. The road surfaces were maintained and in good condition. There were occasional spots in the road marked for repair, from potholes or just simple and normal road deterioration. The defects were marked in bright orange and quite easy to spot and avoid. Lost in my own little world for most of the ride, I tried hard to remember all the side roads we took, so I could tell you about them, impossible. It’s impossible. You must experience getting lost in West Virginia for yourself. You just don’t know what you’re missing until you do!
As we rode down Route 60, we took a small detour. We stopped at Babcock State Park system (Babcock State Park, HC 35, Box 150 Clifftop, WV. 2583,) for a close-up examination of the Glade Creek Mill. It was a reconstructed gristmill dating back from the 1880s. The reconstruction consists of the parts from three mills: one from Stony Creek in Pocahontas County, another from Spring Run Grist Mill, in Grant County, and the third is from the Onego Grist Mill in Pendleton County.
I highly recommend this stop if you are into the workings of 19th century technology. A park range was extremely knowledgeable on the history and the mill machinery. Not to mention, yes once again. This state will knock your socks off with her natural beauty. It’s a grand place to stop and relax for a few minutes! Check their website to learn more about this wonderful piece of history. When you come, take the time to enjoy the tour with a Ranger, you’ll be glad you did!
Leaving the Glade Mill, our guide took us to Kanawha Falls off of Route 60. This is a beautiful waterfall and public fishing area maintained by the West Virginia Division of Natural Resources. This park is well maintained, with port-a-pottys, boat ramps, picnic area, and well-placed trash receptacles. It was a great spot to stop and be refreshed with cold water to drink, and fresh clean water rushing down this natural side of the falls, spectacular.
Len and Lee, from Songer Whitewater Rafting rolled into the parking lot on their softtail smiling, happy to escape business, while rolling down the road enjoying the cool breezes and fresh air of their own state. Len and Lee were there to guide us into Songer Whitewater Rafting.
Upon our arrival at Songer Whitewater Rafting (3069 Miller Ridge Road, Hico W.V.) we were given keys to our assigned VIP cabins, told we had an hour or two before dinner. Len had plans, he wanted to take us down the gorge in one of his rafting buses. After a tour of the Gorge, we were to be taken to this wonderful BBQ joint for dinner, MMMMM Pig.
Back to the cabins: Len, has several ways to accommodate guests, who wish to stay the night, or the week. Top of the line is the VIP cabins: We had two stories, the upstairs was appointed with two bedrooms, (the master has a small balcony), and a full bath. Both bedrooms have Full-sized beds. Downstairs, the cabin held an additional bedroom w/bunks capable of sleeping six, a large sofa, an overstuffed chair. The kitchen was fully appointed, with full sized refrigerator, oven/stove, as well as dish and cook wear. The eat-in kitchen with table and four chairs is everything the vacationing wanderer could ask for. The main floor also boasts a full bath to accommodate everyone in the cabin. The entry into the cabin is through a large screened in area where you can climb into your well-maintained and very clean Jacuzzi! If the seating area in the kitchen isn’t enough, there is another dining and entertainment area on the porch, seating four with a glass table servicing your needs.
If this kind of luxury makes you nervous, you can opt to stay in the minimalist cabins. They have no luxury appointments, but are 12 X 12 rooms containing a double bed, an air conditioner, and a bedside table. Everything else you bring with you, including your pillow/and bed sheets. Although, Len and Lee will see to it your comfort is met. Even if you don’t have the bed clothing amenities, they are fantastic hosts!
Last, but not least by any means, is the camping area here at Songer. It seems to be very pleasant. There were many campers during our stay. I did have the opportunity to visit the washhouse for the campers and the minimalist cabins. They were clean, and provided good showers and toilets for your sanitary needs.
Len drove a huge lumbering bus to our cabins, picked us up, and off we went to tour the New River Gorge. After a long touring day, many of us were walking wounded, or just plain exhausted. The bus was a relaxing, comfortable way to see the Gorge, while being treated to a rambling narrative by Len of the history and some rollicking tales of his days growing up in the area and working as a river guide.
It was a bit of a strain on some of us, watching as Len stopped at every rock to point out American Indian History. He back-up to point out settler's sagas and to grapple with the many hair pin turns down to the bottom of the gorge. It’s very hard to believe, that as late as 1977, this tiny two lane, (you and I would call it a less than one lane road) serviced this area with big rigs traversing the switchbacks and hairpins. I am sure there was many a traveler on this road who either lost his life, or swore he would never be back.
Whew, it sure would be fun on the correct motorcycle, but by the end of this day, we were all simply allowing Len to do the driving, allowing us to actually look at the walls of the gorge, the narrow twisting, winding road continuously leading and spiraling to the bottom of this very deep gorge. We soon could see the New River Gorge Bridge spanning this deep slash in the earth, amazing. Its really big y’all.
We rumbled onto this steel arch bridge, standing at a height of 876 feet above the gorge floor. It’s length at 3035 feet, as well as its height, gave this bridge the designation of the longest AND the highest of its type in the world for many years. These days it’s only the 2nd highest. Not bad, not bad at all.
Out of the Gorge and onto RT. 19 once more. There she was, the building all would recognize by the sweet smell, a BBQ eatery, wood smoke gently wafting across the road, making its way up our olfactory regions and into the primal parts of our brains. Smoked beef, pork and other wonderful delights, lured us from our comfy bus seats. There we were folks, swaying in our hungry boots, Dirty Ernie’s Rib Pit. A place of wonderful culinary delight that not only included smoked meats, but rather rare to find Italian Gastronomic goodies. Oh lord in heaven, will ya wait till I’m done here, please?
A few hours later, most of the stuffed motley crew of the FAM TOUR, found ourselves up at the High Water Bar with Len and Lee, delighting in the entertainment of Open Mic Night. Some of us crawled home that night. Adult beverages, good music, tall tales, fun, and dancing. What more can a group of lunatic biker journalists ask for?
Morning came early, sigh, that sucked. We dragged our butts out of bed and boarded the dreaded school bus. We were being herded to the river, our next adventure, riding the rapids of the New River. The guides are all certified and well experienced men and women, who ply this river. At no time did I feel in danger, but I certainly felt the thrill of the ride. I was thrown into the river, but was pulled back into the raft quickly and expertly by my guide. Rafting the rivers here in West Virginia is a “MUST DO” on my list. I hope you make it one on yours as well!
We found our docking site, loaded on the bus, and found ourselves back at Songer for a picnic lunch, soon after we were all hugging Len and Lee goodbye.
There are somewhere eight white water outfitters in the New River Gorge area. To find the outfit that works for you, visit: http://www.westvirginiaoutfitters.org/wv_rafting_news.cfm
Next installment: Snowshoe Mountain, The Hut, Covered Bridges, Worm Geared Locomotive Engines, and MountainFest. I may need a fourth installment.
