Chains?? Probably the most neglected part of your bike is the chain. They need adjustment, cleaning and lubrication to function correctly. I prefer chains over a belt, because I can play with the final gearing for performance, by changing either the front or rear sprocket or both resulting in a perfect final gear ratio. Also, if I have a problem with a chain on the road, a chain can be changed quicker and easier than a belt!
Most chain companies recommend chain replacement when chains become stretched 1-1/2 inch for non o-ring and 1 inch for o-ring chains. Twenty links of 530 chain measures 12-1/2 inches. If it measures more than 12-11/16ths it needs to be replaced. When chains wear out and need replacing, do you have any idea what size, quality and how many links? How many links is easy, count the rollers or pins to get your number. An easy way is to start at the connecting link or get some white liquid paper and mark a link, then start counting.
Different motorcycles use different size chains based on their engine horsepower and torque. You’ll find 420, 428, 520, 525, 530 and 630 sizes in most catalogs. What do these numbers mean? The first number is the distance between links (or pin to pin from the outside) measured in 1/8-inch increments. A 4 means 4/8s, which is ½-inch, 5 is 5/8 and a 6 is 6/8 or ¾-inch. Now you know what the first numbers, 4, 5 or 6, indicate.
The next two numbers denote the width of the chain at the roller, or the roller width inside the chain plates. This measurement again is measured in 1/8-inch (.125) increments. So a 20 is 2 x .125=.250 (1/4-inch). A 25 as the last 2 is 2.5 x .125 =.3125 (5/16-inch) and a 30 is 3.0 x .125=.375 (3/8-inch). So now you should know the size denoted through the model number and how many links you need.
Now comes the quality part of this article: This is the hardest part because chains will have different thicknesses of side plates, different diameter of link pins and also different types of heat treating and steel alloys. Chain companies will have tensile strengths and some also have a life table listed in their catalog or on their Web site. Chain companies also publish recommendations regarding engine size or horsepower. Because of the different thickness of side plates and o-ring chains, the overall widths of chains differ greatly. The greater width can cause several clearance problems with primarys, transmission cases and chain guards.
These clearance problems can cause engine case destruction, paint worn off the fender or frame, rubbing the side of the tire and frames with gouged tubes. Check your clearances before there is a problem. (See pics)
I could go on about sizes, but this information is available on Web sites, or has been covered in books and magazines. BUT, there's one very important fact about chains to learn. It revolves around the connecting link also referred to by some companies as the master link. Some chains use links that need to be pressed on. This type requires a special tool. Don’t try to do this yourself unless you purchase a quality tool and press the chain on correctly. Look at the picture to see the correct way to press on the chain.
If the chain has a master link with a spring link clip, make sure you install it so the closed end of the sprung steel link clip faces the direction of the chain travel. (See illustration.)
It amazes me how many clips are installed the wrong way. If it's snapped on wrong and comes in contact with anything, it could become dislodged, fall off and the chain could unravel and leave the rider stranded along side a deserted road to nowhere. The rider could sniffed up and down the highway for master-link components until an 18-wheeler makes road kill out of his sorry ass, or he rolls the dice with a family of rattlers and ends up with snake eyes. On the other hand, he could stand alongside the blistering road and a knockout redhead could pull up to rescue him or her. He could fall in love, destroy his marriage and his kids will hate him forever. That might not be all bad…
Because of the different sizes of chains, different overall width of links, pin sizes of different diameters, different manufacturers and different types of installation there are many master link styles available. If you have trouble on the road and need a master link, a shop may not stock the correct master-link. Don’t try to install one that has a different pin diameter or width, or the chain may come apart causing damage to the bike or even cause personal injury. So, buy an extra master link and put it in your tool bag or fasten it somewhere on the bike or key chain. Very cheap insurance if you happen to have a chain problem. This way you can fix your chain and enjoy your ride.
Here's a couple of other tips regarding chains:
A chain guard is a must on any custom bike. A loose chain can cut your leg off or worse. Don't fuck around.
Master-links are delicate operations. Make sure the clip is secure in the axle slots. It's a good notion to check your chain during break-in to make sure the locking clip is still properly in place after 100 miles.
Make sure your chain is properly lubed, aligned and adjusted for the road. It's a good notion to check the adjustment periodically during your break-in period.
With the advent of multiple chain sizes, sprockets must match the chains. Watch out. That cheap swapmeet chain might not fit your sprockets.
