Installing the Bandit Performance Kit from D&D and Zippers

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Famous blacked out 2003 Road King.

This is crazy. We just installed S&S cam drive gears into our 2003 King with mid range cams. The bike was already set up with Screamin' Eagle heads, two-into-one exhaust, a Screamin' Eagle air box and Terry performance oxygen fuel sensor addition to the stock EFI system. Bike ran fine, but I wasn't capable of additional tuning options. Plus I never dyno tested it after I logged some Terry adjustment miles.

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I've been told several times that Zippers is the only company making a complete EFI replacement module that plugs directly into the stock harness. In addition it makes the earlier models a complete closed loop system, with 02 sensors, for enhance performance, tuning and diagnosis. The temptation hovered over my head every time I discussed tuning with knowledgeable performance minded nuts like Gene at Gene's Speed Shop, in Carson, or Bennett's Performance, in Long Beach.

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Gene trying to get his O2 reader to work.

Then the iron struck like a bolt of lightening in a southern night sky during tornado season. Or was it Bulliet Whiskey, a voluptuous blonde and the phone interrupting in the middle of the night. Dave Rash called from D&D exhaust, and his bit Texas accent spilled into my whiskey glass.

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The highly tuned and dyno tested D&D torpedo. It never misses its mark.

“We're making an exhaust system for new EFI Harleys,” Dave barked, “coupled with Zippers and an air cleaner for amazing performance. We're calling it the Bandit system.” That was damn good news. D&D tunes every exhaust system they make on a dyno. I asked if it came in black. “You bet,” Dave said, ” we coat the header pipes externally with a ceramic coating (2000 degrees) and the heat shields and mufflers are finished with high temp (900 degrees) powder coating process.”

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Fortunately the D&D/Zippers system wouldn't arrive for a couple of weeks, so the blonde could stay. I delivered the blacked-out two-into-one D&D system, the Zipper's ThunderMax EFI system with O2 sensors and the air cleaner kit to Gene's Speed Shop, then rode the King down on Saturday for the installation. The first thing we did was to run it up on his Dyno and take it for a ride. It hit 80.2 pounds of torgue at 3200 rpms and held on until 3500, then dropped to 60 pounds at 5300 when it cross the line with the horsepower curve. The horsepower increased from that point to 68.7 horses at 6000 rpms. The results were just okay.

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Shipping is critical, especially expensive chromed components.

We let her cool, disconnected the ECM power fuse and went to work. We removed the right floorboard, and with a swivel-headed ½-inch socket removed the header nuts. Then we loosened the tranny bracket, and the 1/2 -inch bolts from the muffler bracket after the soft bags were removed. The exhaust system slipped right off the King. We didn't forget to remove the O2 sensor before we yanked the Screamin' Eagle system off and threw it on the floor. That system took me to Sturgis twice and to Laughlin for 90 mph ticket, plus a friend needed a system for his big inch Dyna and we were going to try to make it fit.

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D&D supplies their exhaust with the flanges in place and all the heat shields strapped down. It's interesting how the various exhaust companies differ. D&D sends an extremely complete system with all the fasteners except for the header nuts and new exhaust gaskets. I ran next door to Michael's Motorcycles for the gaskets and we were ready to rock.

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GENE THOMAS BANNER

Dealer Direct

Here are the D&D instructions direct from the Texas factory:

Installation Instructions for the Fat Cat and Boarzilla systems with O2 Sensors. FLH/FLT

Check packaging to make sure that the system you have is the proper one for your motorcycle. And no pieces are damaged. If there is damage call 817-834-0996 prior to installation. There will be no warranty for scratches and or blemishes if the system has been installed and or ran.

Parts that may be required that are not included in the system are: New exhaust gaskets, transmission fluid, transmission gasket, oil filler gasket.

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Fasteners, spacers and tranny bracket. Our Screamin' Eagle bracket worked fine.

1. Remove stock exhaust system from motorcycle. On bikes with floor boards the right front floor board will need to be removed to provide clearance for removal of the stock system and installation of our system.

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D&D supplied longer footboard Allens and spacers.

2. On FLH/FLT models retain the stock crossover bracket that is attached to the starter as this piece will be required if installing one of our Ghost Pipes.

3. FLH/FLT: The stock transmission exhaust mount will need to be removed, and our bracket installed into its place. This will require the removal of the small transmission cover to gain access to the bolt located behind the clutch cable. You will require a new gasket and trans fluid for this. Available through your dealer. Some newer models do not require the cover to be removed. Failure to use the supplied bracket will cause fitment and adjustment problems.

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I did a nasty job of pulling the old gaskets out.

4. All Models: Install new exhaust gaskets (included with boarzilla systems) then the head pipes with heat shields installed then reinstall the exhaust flange nuts but leave loose for now.

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5. FLH/FLT: The A spacer may be required to fill the gap between the header pipe tab and the transmission mount. Once the muffler is installed you will be able to check this.

6. Install muffler onto the motorcycle and install hardware needed but leave loose. Insure everything is lined up and not hitting anywhere. The FLH/FLT systems may require the two small black spacers to line the muffler up with the header.

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Number 7 isn't the way Gene nor I would handle the tightening. I feel it's critical to seal the header properly first and it doesn't hurt to check again when everything else is tight.

7. To complete the installation, start at the muffler and tighten the system toward the heads. Muffler clamp torque is 150 inch pounds. (12.5 Ft Lbs) Reinstall the right floor board with the two bolts and spacers to give the required clearance required.

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O2 Bung plugs.

8. If you are not using the O2 sensors, remove the O2 sensor plugs clean off the antisieze and locktight the O2 sensor plugs in place.

Note: This exhaust system is designed to be used with baffles intact and unmodified. If you do not have the experience to install the system yourself. Have a dealer install the system for you.

Note: There is no warranty on exhaust pipes and mufflers with regard to any discoloration. Blueing is caused by tuning characteristics, cam timing, carburetor jetting, over heating, etc. and is not caused by defective manufacturing.

D&D Performance Exhaust.
2923 Edith Lane
Fort Worth, TX. 76117
Sales 817-834-8961
Tech 817-834-0996
danddexhaust@msn.com
www.danddexhaust.com

Gene recommended we install the O2 sensors before we install the exhaust system, so they didn't need to be twisted and we routed the wiring leads as the system was dropped into place.

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Although this is a lousy shot, it shows the long D&D supplied muffler bolts and the spacer used to align the system.

Gene recommends that the header bolt are the first to be installed followed by the tranny bracket and the muffler loose. D&D supplies spacers for the muffler to insure it's aligned with the system and for the floor board to make sure is clears and doesn't damage the new pipe.

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Once the D&D system was completely in place we started tightening the headers first then worked our way back until the system was tight and ready to rock.

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Generally we needed to remove this backing plate, but we already had a Screamin' Eagle job in place.

GENE THOMAS BANNER

Dealer Direct

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That small strange shaped plate locks into a rubber insert inside the teardrop air cleaner cover and holds it in position.

Then we turned to the EFI system and the Air Cleaner. As it turned out the supplied system was virtually the same as my Screamin' Eagle set-up. We replace the used filter with a fresh one and moved on.

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This shows some of the Terry Component's wiring to the Throttle Position Sensor.

The Zippers Thundermax Auto Tune Module, coupled with the ThunderMax EFI Module would have been an installation breeze of removing the stock EFI system, unplugging it and replacing it with the Zippers unit, but nooo. The Terry component system called for wiring and splicing wires which had to be eliminated.

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Here's the stock ECM in place. The plug to the right is the data plug that is used power the heaters to the O2 sensors for the Zippers system.

Here's the Zippers ThunderMax description:

ThunderMax AutoTune Module

The ThunderMax AutoTune Module works with your ThunderMax Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) controller to create a Wide-Band Closed Loop EFI System. Add pipes, change cams – AutoTune’s on the job! The ThunderMax AutoTune processes feedback from two wide-band oxygen sensors to adjust the fuel volume at all RPM’s and throttle positions. These sensors continually provide feedback for corrections to the fuel map values for optimum performance, Custom-Tailoring the Fuel Map for your application!

The AutoTune kit consists of two wide-band (5 wire) oxygen sensors and a small module that interprets and converts data from the sensors, which is then fed electronically through the J1850 serial bus wiring through the data port plug found on all Twin Cam motorcycles. This means that if you have sensor bungs in your exhaust pipes, the physical installation consists of simply screwing in the oxygen sensors, plugging them into the AutoTune module, then plugging the AutoTune module into the data-port plug and you're done – no wire cutting or splicing!

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Next, use SmartLink software to automatically convert your open-loop map to closed-loop format and download the map to your ThunderMax EFI module. Simple? You bet! Many of the exhaust pipe manufacturers are getting on the bandwagon and will be supplying pipes with bungs in them, and not just for 2007 motorcyles.

D&D comes to mind as the first to do this.

So what exactly does the ThunderMax EFI AutoTune system adjust?

It adjusts fuel for a target Air/Fuel Ratio (AFR). The module (software, really) has user-selectable targets for the AFR on 32 RPM pages (every 256 RPM), at 64 points on each page (that's over 2000 points if you're counting). While this sounds like a lot, they are easy to adjust with point-to-point fill commands, meaning you can move blocks of target AFR points with just a few clicks. You can really concentrate on a certain area such as cruise RPM for fuel economy or richen up full throttle maps for best power. If individual point or map adjusting doesn't interest you, you can choose to override the individual map pages with a straight, across-the-board AFR at all points by entering the desired AFR in the AFR Override dialog and a single AFR you will get. The AFR default is currently set to 13:1 on all of the AFR/TPS at RPM pages; it provides a good balance of power and economy. You can adjust with AutoTune from there.

How much will it adjust?

Quite a lot, actually. Up to 50% from the installed base map. How important is the base map? It's still advisable to install the closest base map in our system for your application to minimize the system's learning time. There are two learning controls within the software that you can set. The first is how much learning the system can do per session (a session being defined as ignition-on to ignition-off, per cycle). The range per session is 0-50%; for a close or dead-ringer match map, we recommend using the default setting of 5% (use more if you have a combination that is a mismatch, for faster learning). The second is the total amount of learning, regardless of the number of sessions; the range is also 0-50%, default here is 20%.

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Here's that data link connector we mentioned.

So I let it learn, and it makes its own map, right?

Yes and no. The base map is the base map; it does not change within the module. The firmware makes adjustments to the fuel volume dictated from the base map using what are called “fuel offsets”. These offsets are what the ThunderMax learns with real-time input from the AutoTune. The offsets are stored in the module, not in the base map. This means you can't upload the map from the module, load it into another module and have those offset corrections follow it. You can, however, adjust the fuel points manually while tuning if you run the module in open loop (you still have that choice), but you don't have to do that with the AutoTune enabled.

What else is adjusted?

The Idle Air Control and its Stops settings are automatically adjusted, always learning. The IAC-Auto function we recommend running during initial startup speeds up this learning process when performed initially. These are also adjusted using offset points.

The ThunderMax AutoTune Kit Includes:
AutoTune Module
SmartLink Installation CD
2 Wide-Band oxygen sensors
Installation Instructions

No splicing necessary; plugs into the factory wiring harness for easy installation.New SmartLink software and firmware will automatically convert all existing open loop maps to a closed loop format.

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There's always a prankster when it comes to mechanics. Gene drilled out the Allens and fixed the brass inserts.

The stock ECM was disconnected and removed by unscrewing four Allens. Two of ours pulled the brass grommets loose from their plastic base.

“Don't use Loctite on these,” Gene said. He had a trick to repair the mounting plate. He drilled out the bolts. “Most of the time, the heat caused by drilling cements the brass grommets back into place. Sometimes I glue them and sometimes the plate needs to be replaced.” Everything needed to be installed before the fuse was replaced. The existing data link connector now controls and powers the 02 sensor heaters. Gene left the fuse block loose, so he could access the fuse position.

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With the fuse in place, Gene turned the ignition on for 30 seconds. He turned it off for half a minute, then back on again, three times. That exercise allowed the ECM to sink with the throttle position sensor (TPS). He plugged in his computer and searched for the base maps. There are 400 to choose from. Your base map can be off by as much as 20-50 percent and the ThunderMax will find its way to optimum performance. Displacement is most important, so we plugged in 88 inches. The software led us to the 88-inch configurations, then we answered the questions asked about the throttle body and selected the D&D fatcat exhaust system, right click. Then we searched for the latest map made and loaded this puppy. We checked the rev limiter, speedo calibration and lowered the idle for that throaty rumble.

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ECM fuse position.

GENE THOMAS BANNER

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The accelerator pump can be adjusted and between 8 and 15 is normal. The decelerator mixture can also be adjusted to prevent rich mixture popping. There is also a hot engine alarm and we checked the setting at 350 degrees. All the basic settings were checked and we turned the bike on.

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Here's the fuse holder back in place next to the ThunderMax.

On the top of Gene's computer screen he right clicked his key pad to link all the selections to the Thundermax ECM system. Then he watched for the auto-tune square to turn green to indicate the selections were accepted.

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The computer connector landing pad.

Just to be on the safe side, Gene turned the ignition off, unplugged the computer, turned the ignition back on and plugged the computer lead back into the ThunderMax body. He double checked to verify that his selections were accepted and we were ready to test.

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Gene checking the Thundermax settings.

We warmed the bike until the head temp was at least 180 degrees then prepared for dyno runs. Each time the bike is turned off and one, it will make as much as a 5 percent adjustment until it run perfectly. As mentioned above in the description, the ThunderMax will adjust up to 50 percent of the original map chosen to reach optimum performance.

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Gene's computer while preparing for a dyno run.

We shut the computer down and used Gene's dyno for our first test and were amazed at the findings. We say an almost 20 percent increase in power and a very consistent power curve. Our torque remained the same but increased the rpm range three fold from top torque from 300 rpms to 2,500 rpms at nearly the top torque.

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Incredible results with the first pass.

Check the charts. “Keep in mind that this system delivered the equivalent of a new, bigger inch engine,” Gene pointed out. This chrome Bandit Kit retails for only $1,798.00 and the black Bandit Kit comes in at $1,898.00. You retain smaller engine reliability and get $8,000 engine performance. Not bad.

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Getting ready for some startling dyno runs.

MAKE BIG HORSEPOWER IN YOUR OWN GARAGEIt’s spring time and you want a little more lead in your pencil. Where do you go? Go no farther than D&D’s New Bandit Kit – It makes asphalt ripping performance for your Harley-Davidson fuel injected motorcycle. The Bandit Kit comes with a D&D performance exhaust pipe, high-flow air cleaner and Zipper’s Performance ThunderMax with AutoTune tuner. And we will provide a 15% discount just by mentioning the Bandit Kit!

Save 15% on The Bandit Kit – Call 817-834-8961 Now!

All the experts agree that the most cost effective upgrade to your motorbike is a performance pipe, a free-flowing air cleaner and a tune up. The Bandit Kit delivers it all in one easy to use and to install package from D&D Performance Enterprise.

Your Performance Hotline – 817-834-8961

The Zipper’s Performance ThunderMax with AutoTune tuner calibrates itself so you don’t need to put your bike on a dyno. That saves time and money. Also, if you add more go-fast parts, it knows it and modifies itself. Fast, efficient and easy to use – that's the D&D way.

So call the D&D team today at 817-834-8961 or get more information by here and start making horsepower gains tomorrow.

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Comparison chart showing before system in red and the new system in black. I'll bet my torgue improves even more over the next few rides.

Call D&D Performance Exhaust at 817-834-8961 for details. Tell 'em you want the Bandit system.

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The complete Bandit system by D&D and Zippers installed.

ZIPPERS BANNER

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