The Mudflap Girl project is coming together. I needed a set of shocks to work with the Redneck bags around and found some killer, new 11.5-inch Progressive Suspension masters. I had to hit the local fastener joint for some ½-inch fine Allens and spaced the shocks properly. Progressive supplied a number of various spacers for different applications, so all I needed were the bolts and the new Progressive shocks slipped into place. Now I need a rear fender, and I can go to work mounting the Redneck bags. The tire isn't wide and Redneck sent massive fender rails, but their system is designed for a Softail. We'll deal with that.
Next we installed a set of Burly semi-highbars (13-inch) since this Custom Chrome front end is such a massive monster glide. These bars are designed to fit 1-inch applications but they spread to 1.25-inch diameter where appearance comes into play. I dug around in our front-end locker for risers. The Burly bars are designed for stock applications, so I wasn't able to use some wild wide risers. I'm not sure if these Aeromach billet risers will be used throughout the project, but they will help us with mock-up. I'm concerned about tank clearance issues, but we'll deal with that when we mount the Custom Chrome tank.
Next we started on the driveline connecting the Re-manufactured H-D engine to the JIMS 6-speed transmission. I had to install the Spyke alternator, stator first. I've always grappled with regulator plug installation and don't like pushing on electrical components with sharp objects like screwdrivers, so I reached out to Bikernet readers and received several responses. Here's how I did it: Rogue and Hiwayman suggested a couple of similar alternatives and I blended them.
Rogue said, “Use silicon lube and it should slip right in.” Hiway told me to watch for case burrs, so I sanded the cast aluminum case edges and tunnel with wet and dry Emory cloth, inspected it, then sprayed some silicone lube on a rag and wiped it clean. Then I took some silicone sealer and used it as a temporary grease to lube the way. I wiped it around the plug and slipped it into place. Ultimately, as Hiway pointed out, the silicone will dry and add an extra wet seal.
Next I tried the Spyke rotor. I've had rotor teeth fitment problems in the past, but this rotor didn't need time-consuming hand filing, just some cleaning and paint removal and it slipped right on. Spyke included a set of engine compensator sprocket shims in their charging kit, along with a chromed regulator. The shims came in handy with the Rivera Brute engine pulley alignment. Presto, the alternator was in place and ready to rock.
My next move was to prepared the inner primary for a dry Rivera system by removing the stock oiled main shaft bearing and replacing it with the Rivera sealed bearing. First, I had to remove one of the massive inner primary spring clips. Whatta bitch it was to squeeze the ring pliers and pry up a sprung steel edge with a screwdriver until it cleared the case. Usually the pliers pull the ring clear of the groove, but not in this case.
I used a press to push out the stock bearing, and then found a large socket, just the right diameter, to catch the outside sealed bearing race, yet not catch the case. I made sure the bearing was slipping into the case perfectly straight before I put the pedal to the press. Then I replaced the clip ring, although it might not be necessary.
I installed the inner primary, like I do with most big twin belt inner primaries. I use them to line up the engine and trans. It's not as critical with touring bikes, Dynas or FXRs, since the engines and trans bolt together, but it's still a good ideal to loosen that connection and let the primary pull everything into alignment.
This system was a breeze to slip into the case. I slid on the engine sprocket and the clutch pack complete over the trans main-shaft. I spun on the engine shaft nut and washer and the left-handed clutch nut. Then I took a straight edge and leaned it against the inner edge of the starter ring gear and saw how it lined up with the front edge of the engine pulley. It stuck out about 1/8 inch. I removed the front pulley and added the .100 spacer supplied by Rivera and checked it again. It needed a tad more spacing so I dug into the shims supplied by Spyke and found just the right size.
Then I peered under the clutch pack and looked for inner primary areas that might hit the clutch or the belt. A couple of webs and a boss looked close, so I stripped it down, and went after them with a Makita and grinding wheel. Done deal quick.
I was good to go. I slipped the belt over the front pulley and the clutch, tried to hold them level and scooted them onto the shafts. No problem with just the right amount of patience, it rolled it right into place. Since the whole clutch pack remained intact, I screwed on the left-handed clutch nut with a drop of Loctite and tightened it to 70-80 foot-pounds of torque. I screwed the pushrod adjusting screw into the pressure plate, greased the seal and I slid on the pressure plate, with the “OUT” facing out, then put a dab some never-seize on spring shaft threads. The convex diaphragm spring set easily on the pressure plate with the four special nuts and locking tabs.
Since we are still mocking up this bike and we will need to tear it down again, I didn't tighten the spring nuts to 30-inch pounds of torque or bent the locking tabs into place. Here are some tips from Rivera:
Clutch Adjustment Rivera Primo style:Run the clutch cable all the way out until the clutch lever touches the handlebar grip. Then run the center adjusting screw in until it touches the pushrod. Back it out ¼ turn and tighten the jam nut. Adjust the clutch cable for 1/8-inch free play. Note: Braided clutch cables require little or no free play.
Okay, make sure that there's ¾ to 1 inch of up and down play in the belt when it's cold. Plus make sure you use a vented outer primary, and check the belt once more when the bike is warm. It should be snug but not excessively tight. You'll need to wait to see how we give this inner primary a Mudflap Girl touch. First I need to find a primary. Hang on.
