We often get calls for basic wiring diagrams. Here's one that was taken from an old Easyriders and expanded by the wizards of Hard Core Chopper Magazine in Japan.
Take your time. Keep those copper strands away from sharp edges, moving stuff (like chains) and hot items. Cover everything with shrink wrap. Use extra layers of shrink wrap for more protection and stronger connections. I like to solder connections for a solid, vibration free contact, but some prefer crimping connections to avoid wicking. Watch out. Some of the littlest, coolest switches go to shit in a week under 100 mph vibration.
The Frank Kaisler, patent pending, wire junction tool. Send $99.99 to P.O. Box 666, Hollywood, Calif. Send only rolls of quarters.
Don't forget to work in circuit breakers and fuses. If one blows, disconnect the battery and research the problem. I like Terry battery cables for their flexibility, and they allow more amps to flow to the starter because of their low resistance.
Couple more tips: Watch out, wiring around the front-end. That sucker needs to turn. Don't run the electrical connections too tight. If you run wires through the frame, debur the openings and use extra shrink wrap to protect fragile insulation.
Bandit generally uses 16-gauge for most of the wiring, 18-gauge in the bars and 12-gauge from the battery to the ignition switch.
I called Frank Kaisler, a tech writer for decades, and before I finished reading the above he shouted across the line, “Yeah right, but you're forgetting plenty, dipshit. Don't forget to tell 'em about the breakers. Use a 30-amp breaker between the battery and the main electrical circuit (or the battery and the ignition switch). You can use one of the breaker lugs to attach the regulator hot line to minimize wires to the battery. Use 12 gauge wire for the main leads. Use a 15 or 20-amp breaker between the ignition switch and all the lighting connections.
“Goddamnit, you didn't explain wicking. Solder creeps under the insulation when it flows. The wire will flex against that soldered area and may break.”
“Yeah right, after two hundred years,” I muttered
“Shut up and listen,” Frank lit another cigarette.
“Quit smoking,” I babbled over the phone.
“The way your ride,” Frank coughed, “you won't last another week. Let's get back to the wires. I like to remove the plastic insulation on lugs and run shrink wrap right onto connectors, for a clean, stronger lead, and damnit, use the correct connectors. Blue for 14 and 16-gauge wires and red for 18 and 20. And make sure to use the proper ring sizes for stud connections, like the battery, circuit breakers and brake switch studs. Floppy lugs make for lousy connections.”
I was beginning to lose it. We could go on all night about wiring. He muttered something about using rubber grommets with wires that must run through sheet metal and additional ground straps from the headlight to the frame to maintain a solid ground to the front end.
“Don't forget the final show bike detail,” He said and I remembered all the rats bikes I built in the '70s with wires running everywhere. “Run wires down the left side of the bike. The hot looking side is always the pipe side.”
“Okay goddamnit,” I said. “I'm not writing a book. Just a handful of hints.” I sensed a lecture coming from a guy who edited bike magazines for 30 years.
“Do it right, Snake,” He coughed lighting another Marlboro, “or don't do it at all!”
“Thank you, sir,” I said and hung up. Fuckin' guy is worse than Bandit.
