Alright, here we are again. Here's everything all masked out in the shop ready to spray.I got my coffee, the heat's on and the door's LOCKED. Check out Part One, click here
I have to lock my door because folks hear me spraying paint and just walk right in,thus, sucking dust and bugs through the door from outside that can FUCK UP MY PAINT JOB!
On to the next step…
See that tape intruding into my flame image area? On a real complicated job,this happens all the time. Check and double check your work as you go.
THEN, ask others what they think…I GUARANTEE they'll point to any mistakes.(Usually with a “tsk tsk” and a smug look…try not to slap them.)
I've chosen this pearl orange as my outline color. Notice I did NOT say “pinstripe”.Pinstripes are done with a brush after the flames are done, my outlines are maskedwith tape BEFORE the main flame color is sprayed.
I sprayed this pearl orange first…
As I said earlier, with this mask style anything can be used as an outline…pearls, candy, flake, etc. You can even blend different colors together to create a multi-colored stripe… There’s that word, I meant outline.
Once the outline color is sprayed and DRY, I lay 1/16th fine line tape along the inside edge.I almost always mask the top part of the flame with a very thin line, and then the bottom ofthe flame is masked with a fat line. This “thick to thin” line masking adds more detail andinterest to the flames. See below…
Here's where things get kooky. After masking half the frame this way, I got a better ideafor this bike's flame outline. So, I decided to un-mask everything and lay down the actual metalflake first.
Does the customer pay for all the extra labor time to do this? No, I do.
NOTE: This example, right here, illustrates the difference between the COMMERCIAL art and the FINE artapproach to a custom paint job.In commercial art, the artist is paid to create something exactly as planned (by him or someone else) ina cost effective and timely manner.
In fine art, an artist starts with a basic idea, then the piece evolves, changes, backs up, goes forward, etc. etc.until it's done.
Most custom paint is a combination of both disciplines, which makes a true custom job a MOTHERFUCKERto bid accurately. This is usually the number one reason why custom paint takes longer than expected anddrives the customer CRAZY. Truly ONE-OFF paint jobs cost the painter and customer more time and money.They are “prototype”, not “production” jobs.
Onward…
That sparkly stuff you see flying around is course metallic gold. This is the beginning of my metalflake process…
#1 – I lay down a base (2 coats) of course metallic silver or gold. I chose gold on this job because it is part ofthe color scheme on the bike.
Usually, I lay down silver metallic and Flake. I feel when candy color is sprayed over silver it's more vibrant.
I choose the heaviest (coarse) metallic base coat available, because no matter how much 'Flake you put down,the base peeks through from underneath. This helps “fill in” the space between the 'Flakes.
#2 – Mix up some clear using a bit more reducer than usual to thin it out a bit (usually 25% more).
I always suspend my flake in clear coat instead of base coat clear. It adds depth to the paint andalso keeps the Flake from “migrating” to other parts of the surface where it's not wanted.
At this point I add two different sizes of MetalFlake to the mixed clear. Metalflake(or metallic) comes in many different sizes
For Conder Custom bike jobs I use Ultra-Mini and Mini-Flake together instead of the big”Bass Boat” stuff. When applied right, it sparkles more and looks better than the big Flake,especially in the shade.
Big Flake is usually applied lightly so it only takes a couple coats of paint (at most) to cover it up.This means you can see each individual Flakes laying on the base color. Each Flake lays almost totallyflat as well, meaning it only reflects light one way…
With the smaller MetalFlake sizes, if you mix and spray it right, it will jumble, lean and stackat every imaginable angle, reflecting light in all directions. Plus, because of the varying size,this smaller 'Flake combo has fewer open spaces between it, which makes for a velvety texturein the shade that looks much better upon close inspection.
It's possible to apply the big Flake heavy like this, but if you lay it on too thickit'll have an ugly “cellulite” texture to it…
So, with that theory out of the way, here's how I spray it…
#3 – I put a LOT of my 'Flake combo in the clear. The stick should be totally coveredwhen you pull it out of the cup. I use a gravity feed HVLP gun with a 1.4 or 1.7 tip.
I stir the 'Flake right up until I put it in the gun, then swish it around between spray passes.It doesn't take very long to apply this on a bike, so I've never had a problem with settling or clogging.
For frames I concentrate the spray fan to narrow on the gun, with 10 lbs. at the regulator.Then I stand way back and blow it on. It sprays pretty aggressive so be ready, and remember,it's CLEAR COAT so don't lay it on too heavy. If this shit sags or runs you'll want to jump off a cliff.
The texture when you're finished should look even everywhere and have a definite “freshly cast alloy”look. Wait 10 minutes and lightly dust on some straight clear to glue everything down (again, to avoid migration).LET IT DRY comptetely. Then you can un-mask it. It will feel like stucco when it's dry and take 3 to 4 coatsminimum of high-build clear to bury it enough for sanding.
When you unmask, peel the tape back on itself toward the work. This makes the tape cut the paint.With this small, mixed Flake method of mine, the MetalFlake tape edge will be sharp,with minimal rough edges or tearing of the work.
The paint “ledge” of the flames is severe. If you want to brush stripe these, put a few coatsof clear on, then cut and polish the whole gig. Your pinstripes will look much better.
Right here is where your prep work will show. After the tape is removed there will be someflaky paint left on the flame edges here and there. As stated earlier, this base color was sandedwith 320 and the surface was free of all oils and grease. If you did everything right up to thispoint, the only paint that comes off when being sprayed with this air nozzle should be paintyou don't want. Good luck…
Next, lightly scuff the flames with a wet scotch-brite pad, further removing any unwantedpaint or rough edges.
Finally, use a new #11 X-Acto blade or 320 wet sandpaper to remove any other errant paint.(This is where you'll be reeeeal happy you have lots of clear over your base.)
This is also a good time to clean out any holes that thick Flake may have gotten into…Then take it out in the sun, wet it down and really look it over to make sure you haven't missed anything.
At this stage I always bury my Flake in clear coat before continuing on with the job. It's possible to sprayCandy right over “raw” flake, but in my experience, wherever the Candy pools or gathers (like on a thickpaint edge or in the pockets between the Flake) it gets very dark, ruining the look. Also, the texture ofFlake is so coarse, that pearls or metallics painted over it will look very grainy and un-even.
So, after I clear this stage with 4 coats of high-build (mixed with less reducer so it's thick), I'll wet sandthe clear with 320 wet until it's perfectly smooth. Here are a few pictures of the clearcoated MetalFlake so far…
After seeing this paint job in gold and black, I REALLY want to put a big “Smokey and the Bandit” FireBirdgraphic on top of the tank!!!!!
Man, John, my customer would KILL ME. That's it for this part. Remember…just take your time and have fun. This shit is hardto do but it ain't impossible. If humans do it – YOU can do it. –
Choppers Forever
–Conder
FINAL NOTE TO PHOTOGRAPHERS: MetalFlake is a bitch to do justice to in a photograph. Many of my jobsin magazines were shot indoors with diffusing light boxes on a white background, and this KILLS Flake. We'vehad pretty good luck adding direct and in-direct incandescent light while shooting metalflake and it looks cool.
Here's an example shot by photographer William Anthony http://www.braveelements.com/ out of Seattle…
This paint had been on the road a year when this shot was taken so there are some scratches,but the metalflake really shows up.
