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Seems since 9/11, all law enforcement agencies from local cops to the FBI, CIA, DEA and homeland security are connected. He’s been hauling in guys for murders committed 50 years ago. I followed him, to allow him time and the space to adjust to riding again.
As we entered a round-about on the edge of Papeete, I became aware that I had forgotten to turn on my petcock. I pulled to the side, adjusted the petcock and lost the pack. Attempting to catch the crew, we took on one simple philosophy; kept the ocean on our left. After a couple of wrong turns and moves we inadvertently turned left onto the coastal highway and the only road that circumnavigated the entire island on the winding coast. Whatta ride.
Although the island is reasonably small, 402 square miles (1/10th the size of the big Island in Hawaii). The population for all the major islands is 220,000 while 150,000 reside in only Tahiti, and most of them in the Papeete area. As soon as we turned left the population of the French territory was left behind. We rode for miles and miles past groves of coconut palms, banana trees and lush vegetation on the right and coral beaches on the left over looking two million square miles of French Polynesia. It was a ride through paradise, no traffic, smooth winding roads and unlimited coves, bays and pristine beached to investigate.
The Island has a brief peninsula connecting the main body, Tahiti Nui, to a much smaller mountain, but the 71 mile paved road doesn’t venture onto the smaller berg, Tahiti Iti, but cuts across the natural land bridge and back to the opposite side of the island past vast shallow turquoise bays. Soon we were heading back into Papeete and the sprawling Sofitel facility. It was a comfortable three hour ride until we reached the myriad of round-abouts and off ramps leading into the interior of the island, the international airport and the outskirts of Papeete. The asphalt snake dipped and weaved as I rolled the dice in hopes that my luck would carry me through the correct turns and back to the Hotel. We made it in time for Happy Hour, a sensuous swim in the warm Pacific, some sun along the beach and a shower before the banquet kicked off. From the beach we could see the island of Moorea only 10.5 miles from the Tahiti coast by Ferry or plane.
It was during the 16 and 17 centuries that Spanish and Dutch explorers first laid eyes on these islands of mystical beauty. It was an Englishman, Samuel Wallis who, in 1767, stumbled across Tahiti and christened it King George’s island. A year later, unaware of Wallis’ discovery, Louis Antoine de Bougainvillea, claimed the island of Tahiti for France.
In 1768, British military explorer James Cook embarked on the first of three voyages to Tahiti. It was the infamous mutiny on the HMS Bounty in 1789 that ended Polynesia’s first period of contact with Europeans.
France returned in 1841 to claim Tahiti as its protectorate. During this period, Tahiti was ruled by the Pomare dynasty who had the support of first the English, then the French. The Pomare dynasty continued to reign until 1880, when King Pomare V surrendered his kingdom to France.
Today the majority of the population speak French and topless vacationing French women adorn the beaches. French Polynesia includes 130 islands and atolls which are divided among five archipelagos: The Society Islands, including the Windward Islands of Tahiti, Moorea, and the leeward Islands of Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, Maupiti and Bora Bora. The Tuamotu, which contains mostly atolls including spectacular Rangiroa. The Gambler Islands to the Southeast. The Australs islands to the South and finally the Marquises Islands to the Northeast. There’s no end to the islands to explore.
One of the immediate romantic aspects of these unencumbered islands is the basic architectural openness. Upon departing the plane we discovered tall angular roofs over lobbies with no doors below, just broad open portals. There is no need for thick glass enclosures and deep wooden doors. The weather is always balmy. When it rains is does so in robust showers that dry up and float away as fast as they arrive. The hotel had the same open lobby with comfortable rattan furniture and large sprawling roofs covered with palm leaves.
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