Here we go. I’m buzzed. It’s Thursday and we just completed the news. It kicks our ass every week, but we love doing it. It’s what this site is all about, constant, quick and complete news of what’s happening in this industry.
Okay, enough of that. The lovely Sin Wu just brought me a Mojito Mango Martini. Does that make sense? Let’s roll into Chapter 17 of the Bonneville V-Bike Salt Shake build and see how far I get before I pass out.
Since I moved my controls forwards I needed to do something about the shift lever. The V-bike was designed by John Reed to use standard/stock mid controls, but I shifted gears and ran a BDL system, then moved the Dyna controls forward and down.
I decided to punt and develop a way to hold the stock linkage across the top of the primary for ease of assembly, then I went to see Gard Hollinger of LA County Chop Rods about some aluminum welding. He builds mid-controls into lots of customs and has the bushings pre-made.
He offered to bore my BDL system, extend the shift linkage, run it through a piece of tubing, spot weld it and make the whole system work. One of the critical aspects was the clearance behind the inner primary and the left engine case. We did our best to make it all work with guess-work as a guide.
One of Wil Phillips strident recommendations included installing Dyna type axle adjusters for a stronger, more controlled rear axle. We’re hoping this motorcycle can endure 200 mph. It needs to be tight.
I considered building the axle plates but checked at California H-D first. Dyna plates are heavy solid chunks of steel bored for ¾ axles and threaded for 3/8 axle adjuster bolts. We were good to go, except the plates were very tight in the swingarm. We carefully shaved the sides for a tight smooth fit.
Ultimately we made both plates fit snug in the swingarm. We filed the entrance port, drilled out the adjuster bolt plates and I guarantee that the axle will be secure. The next move woulda been to run with a 1-inch axle. That might be a mod for next year.
I’ve asked that Rodan come by the shop and give me the rundown on Bonneville regs. I know that the axles need cotter keys or safety wiring. I need to know what else needs to be drilled and wired. I know I need to safety wire the front axle and maybe the fork pinch bolts.
The chain has been a problem. We adjusted it too tight and I needed to add a link or two. Then I only had permenant, riveted master links. I’m anticipating a much smaller sprocket for the speed runs and will need to adjust the chain length by removing a link, so I need a spring clip masterlink. I bought two today at Walker’s. He was the only guy in town who had 'em for O-ring chains. I found a place in Azusa that can make a sprocket in two days. I’m waiting on the teeth number from Berry Wardlaw tomorrow. I also discovered that the chain wasn’t aligning properly and quizzed John Reed.
John Reed sent me the following info: It can be only one of three things,
1: put a straight edge on the rear sprocket while it’s on the wheel, and it must have enough clearance on the tire for chain clearance , if it doesn't you may have put the sprocket on backwards, it has to have the clearance for the nuts and this is on the out side. If it still hits once you have checked it has to be either: the wheel is to far to the left, or b: the tranny sprocket is not far out of centerline.so..
2: make sure wheel is in the center, if it’s not, check that you have the spacer in the left hand side, (the one that fits on the anodized bush when its pulled from wheel I remember its about ¼-inch.3: If it hits after you have checked number 1 and 2, it has to be the tranny sprocket, which is too close to centerline, check the offset of the sprocket. I remember that you are using a Baker one. I used a Baker one on the bike I am building now, and I think that I used the one with 0.9 offset.And if all the above is correct, you have to have tire clearance to the chain.
As it turned out we had the sprocket on backwards. We fixed it, but the chain still runs close. That can be due to the tire manufacturer. The difference between an Avon and a Metzeler can be over 1/8-inch. We changed out the Baker tranny sprocket for a 24-tooth, for taller gears. The sprocket offset was fine.
One final recommendation from Wil, of True-Track, included grinding some of the casting marks on the transmission. “You should also remove the chrome covers and replace them with bare covers,” Wil said. “Chrome holds the heat in.” We haven’t been able to do that yet.
I’ve known Yvonne Mecialis for years and her shop is fortunately down the street and she works closely with Jim Murillo.
I’m trying to pry the secrets of her trade out of her lovely self to pass onto our readers. But as you can see, she’s transferring Chris Kallas’ art to the bike. I may have more on the process in the next couple of days. Hang on, it’s going to be an exciting weekend.
Jeff from Sucker Punch Sally's gave me this historic neck plate and asked me, in Sturgis, if I installed it. I took care of it, just after I returned. It's cool. Through this plate the SPS gang found a plate manufacturer to make neck plates for their bikes.
