Laser Alignment-How it Came To Be
The following was written by Mil Blair, the co-founder of Easyriders, custom bike product designer since the '60s, Bonneville racer and now the designer of this alignment tool.
Since '58, when I got my first real motorcycle, A '47 Knuckle I was amazed at how a bike worked. I lined up the wheels just like everyone else did on bikes, string, boards and good eye-balling. In 1975-76 when I got involved in the Jammer Streamliner, the wheels had to be lined up extremely well, because we planned to exceed 300+. Paul Larquier and I spent days and nights getting it right. We tried several different maneuvers. We must have done something correctly, because the liner screamed along the salt at 294 mph.
Throughout the years I thought there must be a better, easier way. During this time I also observed that most bikes were not in alignment. After becoming familiar with lasers I said, “wow, that's it, but how?” I played with many different forms of the tool.
Finally, one day I was at LePera Seats and Bob LePera said, “Why does my new Harley handle so poorly? I looked at it, rode it, and it was bad. So I had Bob bend some sheet metal for me. I grabbed a laser. I lined up his wheels and it worked quick and simple. After a few shape and style variations (and a few years), I went to Ray at Tiger Welding and he made the components that we use now.
It's a simple tool that handles a very complex job. It takes an engineer to understand single-track vehicle dynamics. This tool keeps you out of school and on the road much safer. Used as instructed, it will make your bike stop straight and do burnouts without going sideways. Your belt will last much longer, so will a chains and tires, too. Plus, when you get a little wild in the corners the bike will go around right and left corners equally. Also, at high speed it will feel solid, instead of like you are on ice.
–Mu Blair
The Reasoning Behind The Laser Alignment Tool
For a motorcycle to turn, brake, accelerate and maintain stability at high speeds the front and rear wheels must be inline. That's why a motorcycle is called a single track vehicle.
Most bikes are set-up by lining up the rear wheel belt or rear chain to the transmission pulley or sprocket, believe it or not, this is not correct. Actually, this should be handled AFTER the wheels are aligned.
By using this kit and the tools provided, you can quickly align the rear wheel to the front wheel and thus achieve dynamic stability
First, determine if the front wheel is on center of the fork. Most motorcycles are on center, but on some Harleys the front wheel is not centered. See chart for offset measurements. It is important to compensate for this measurement when using this tool.
ELECTRA GLIDE .187-inch
FLSTICIF .359-inch
FXWG ,FXSTIC,FXSTS .526-inch
FXSB, FXEF w/laced wheels .340-inch
FXSB. FXEF w/cast wheels .226-inch
IMPORTANT. All front wheels are not in the center of the fork tubes. Some are offset to the right side. You can usually tell by looking at the left fender mount. It will be thicker than the right side mount.
STEP 1: Place the bike on a stand or block so it's straight up. Then level the frame. Raise the rear wheel 1-2 inches above the ground… OR… have someone sit on the bike, as if they were going straight down the road.
STEP 2: Place the supplied front wheel alignment tool on both sides of the front wheel. Squeeze the two sides together. Look at the position of the tool to make sure that both surfaces fully contact the tire and the tool is sitting flat on the floor.
STEP 3: Turn on the laser. Be careful not to shine the laser in anyone's eyes. Put the supplied laser tool up against the rear wheel, making sure it is fully contacting the side of the rear tire. Look at the alignment grid on the front wheel and note the number that the laser shines on.
STEP 4: Now move the laser tool to the opposite side of the wheel, setting it soundly against the side of the tire. Note the number that the laser shines on.
STEP 5: Compare the two numbers. The object is to get both numbers reading alike, (assuming you have compensated for the offset of the front wheel depending on the model). If the numbers are not alike then you must adjust the rear wheel accordingly.
STEP 6: Loosen the rear axle nut and begin turning the adjusters so that you end up with the beam highlighting the same number on both sides of the alignment grid (which you left contacting both sides of the front tire). Tighten the axle nut.
STEP 7: After both sides read the same with the axle tightened, look at the rear belt or chain alignment. If the belt or chain alignment does not look correct your rear wheel may not be centered in the frame. You must re-position the rear wheel by changing the spacing configuration until the left & right laser readings are identical and the belt or chain are inline.
Now that you have successfully completed this procedure, take your bike out for a ride.
Enjoy, we know you will!
The C.A.T. System Made by Tiger Manufacturing
The system consists of two major components the STRING TOOL and the C.A.T. LASER TOOL.
1. Lay your rear wheel with tire flat against ground or other solid surface and measure from the top to the flat surface.
2. Mark tire on center.
3. Put the wheel (with tire) in the frame and insert the axle without any spacing.
4. Now put the string holder into the frame neck.
5. Pull the string down the center of the frame's top tube and continue until the string passes over the rear wheel and tire.
6. Move the wheel until the mark you initially made on it lines up with the string that's running down the center of the top frame tube.
7. Now it is time to make spacers to keep that wheel properly positioned.
8. Position the spacers on the axle and re-check that the center mark on the wheel falls directly in line with the pulled string running out of the neck.
9. Then and only then look at where the belt pulley or chain sprocket will go. Look, also, at the brake side.
10. Remember, the wheel must stay in place when you align the pulley or sprocket as well as set-up the brake.
11. You may need to space the pulley or sprocket. Cut other spacers for the brake side, but don't change the position of the wheel.
12. You have now completed the “String Tool” portion of the system.
After the bike is assembled, use the LASER ALIGNMENT TOOL to align the rear wheel with the front.
Remember, without the rear wheel in the center of the line of the frame neck, your motorcycle will not handle well. It will slide to one side when you accelerate and slide sideways when you brake.
If Laser Aligned, your bike will never wiggle or float at high speeds and the wear on your rear belt,chain and both tires will be significantly reduced.
TIGER MANUFACTURING/ALIGNMENT DEPT.
11245 VINEDALE ST.
SUN VALLEY, CA 91352
(818) 252-0929
FAX (818) 252-0910
