We ran into the Reading Design group in Vegas at Bikefest. They had an extensive display to demonstrate their latest product. It’s a motorized adjustable power floorboard system designed exclusively for Harley-Davidson motorcycles.
This patented innovation allows the rider to adjust their floorboards from the stock position to a full forward control position or anywhere in between with the push of a button.
For the mid to long rides nothing else exists that can create a more comfortable and enjoyable riding experience. The brake and shifter arm travel in relation to the boards throughout the range of movement resulting in uncompromised rider control. Plus their footboards are top of the line.
Here are the complete intallation instructions
Model # RR1
1) Remove existing Left & Right floorboards. FIG 1
2) Remove stock brake arm. Save clevis pin, cotter key and stock mounting nut /washer. FIG 2
3) Install Splined Adjustable Inner Brake Arm (B1) FIG 3b and attach with stock clevis pin and cotter key FIG 3a
Note: Delrin washer (C) and stock washer and nut will be added later after board is installed.
Motor Drive Assembly
4) Install motor drive (A) :
Option 1: Attach to front engine mount stud with the stock nut using included pre-attached stainless bracket. FIG 4 If engine mount stud is of sufficient length, you may opt to mount bracket on top of original engine mount nut using an additional nut.
Drill 3/8″ hole in sheet metal (brake side) to line up with motor drive output for drive cable pathway FIG 5
Option 2 : Place motor drive between the frame rails in the space between the Transmission and Engine. Align fish mouths with 1” frame rails using the all thread w/jam nut bracket, preassembled w/motor (A) FIG 6a
Position the drive motor as far forward as possible. FIG 6b
Note: Avoid loosening from vibration, tighten sufficiently. Be sure to secure Jam Nut FIG 7 FIG 8
Drive Cables
5) Insert drive cable (D) into drive motor (A) FIG 9
Note: Leave cables bare at this time, add the sheaths (E) w/lubricant at the very end. The bare cables flop just a bit, but messing with the sheaths every time an adjustment is needed is time consuming.
Wiring “Grip Switch” Install
6) Wire Grip Switch harness (F) by attaching bullet connectors to motor drive (A) pig tails FIG 8
Connect power and ground wire (ring eyelets included).
Note: Grip Switch and Cable Overview see FIG 9b
Note: Blue wire should be power, black should be ground to ensure pressing top of the toggle switch would bring the boards forward, bottom toggle for reverse.
Note: You may prefer to leave the switch control un-mounted at this time to allow for easier access while testing, that is, just let it hang down so it’s easier to operate while testing cable drive functions FIG 10
Otherwise to complete switch installation, refer to step 7)
7)Remove left hand side handle bar clutch bracket (front half) FIG 11 and replace with new Grip Switch (F) control Retain and use stock Torx head screws.
Route Grip Switch control wires to suit:
Externally: (Down the handlebars, over frame-rails) consider using included Sheerloc wire fasteners
Internally: Consult an expert or use your own discretion
Test switch, making sure drive cables are fully inserted and engaged with Motor drive and spin freely in both directions.
Note: Remember cables will flop!
Front Slider Bracket Install
8)Board Assembly Overview (shown as packaged for shipping) FIG 12a
Remove front mount slider bracket (G) from board assembly
Attach front slider bracket (G) to brake and shifter sides of stock front mounts using provided 1 inch stainless allen bolts and lock nuts. FIG 12b
Brake Side Board Install
9) Mount brake side Power board by first aligning Road Rail rear mount w/ motorcycle rear
Mount FIG 13 and install 1 ½ inch Stainless button head allen bolt and lock nut as shown FIG 14
On 2008 and newer models rear anti rotate brackets (I) are included and go in between Road Rail rear mount and stock mount as shown FIG 14 and FIG 15
10) Attach front mount 3/8 allen bolt through the slider bracket (G) where it should line up with the front mounting Block (H) on the under-side of the power board. FIG 16 If block (H) does not line up flush with the Slider Bracket (G) shown as extreme examples in FIG 17a and FIG 17b, loosen stock front frame mount
bracket FIG 18 and adjust/rotate accordingly. Correct alignment as in FIG 17c
Note: At this point also take note the lateral alignment of the slider bracket (G) in relation to the (H) block
FIG 19a (Incorrect) FIG 19b (Correct). Again stock frame mount is the culprit and can be spaced outwards by inserting a .200 or .300 or combination of included aluminum spacers (I) as shown in FIG 20
Note: These anomalies occur typically on later model bikes (2007 and up)
11)Insert bare cable (D) into worm gear (W) making sure that it is fully engaged. FIG 21
Note: Make sure to tighten set screw securely once in desired position.
We seem to be missing Fig 25. Wouldn’t you know it. How about a cartoon?
12)Run brake side floorboard to a full forward position FIG 25. Insert Boomerang (B2) spline around brake arm mounting stud FIG 26 and insert brake arm Rivet (R) into channel at enlarged end of outer brake arm (J) ?FIG 27
Make sure Rivet (R) is pushed all the way in until Rivet rides in anti separation channel FIG 28
Slide Rivet up the channel making sure inner brake and outer brake arm cannot separate FIG 29
Clock outer brake arm peg to at least a height of 3 Inches from the board in the toe up position FIG 30
Slide outer female spline (B2) over inner male spline (B1) while maintaining brake peg board clearance FIG 31a
CAUTION: Make sure you have plenty of brake pedal travel so as not to compromise your braking by contacting your board or frame mount. Test throughout the range of travel. This is especially critical in the Toe Up position.
When satisfied with a safe clearance of brake peg position, hold spline engagement by hand and install Delrin Washer (C) smooth side facing Boomerang (B2) FIG 31b followed by stock steel washer and stock “Nyloc” nut. Tighten sufficiently without binding (stock Nyloc nut can be backed off safely to avoid this) FIG 32
Note: You may adjust your brake peg height to suit your own taste by repositioning the splines, However be mindful of all previous safety cautions.
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13) Run floorboard back while checking for adjustment issues (smoothness of operation, board travel)
Adjustment 1: Involves Brake and Shift arm spacing from the board, and how it relates to
Brake Rivet Bearing (R) and Shift Delrin Bushing (Y) alignments:
Note: All adjustments are described for the brake side but the same process applies to the shifter side.
Check for top to bottom parallel alignment of board/arm at the Rivet (R) bearing FIG 33 a,b,c
To correct above mis-alignments you will need to alter brake/shift arm spacing.
See FIG 34 for exploded detail of bearing/spacer (M) assembly.
Typically you will be removing a factory installed spacer/bearing (M). Remove only the
spacer/bearing (M) at the attachment point where the brake/shift arm (J) meets the board.
Remove or add only the spacer w/bearing (M) when altering spacing.
Always include Delrin washer (N) and race sleeve (O) in any spacing assembly
Delrin washer has a .005 lip that always faces the race sleeve refer to FIG 34
To recap: You may space with Delrin washer only FIG 35 .200 with Delrin FIG 36
or .300 with Delrin (not shown)
Note: For Delrin only or .200 spacer, use .160 race sleeve (O)
For .300 spacer, use .260 race sleeve (O)
This is not as complicated as it sounds. You will recognize these anomalies and solve them with ease before you know it.
Boards come with brake and shift arms mounted in specific tapped holes.
Tapped holes are for unique scenarios. Please reference DVD for further detail or feel free to contact us if further explanation of the DVD is needed.
Adjustment 2: Too much or not enough pressure on the Rivet bearing (R) by the outer brake/shift arm (J) is corrected by adjusting front anti rotation slider bracket (G) set screw. FIG 37
Front slider (G) Set screw could either be set too deep or too shallow.
Set screw too deep cranks the outer brake arm (J) into the inner brake arm (B2) with too much inward pressure.
Set screw set too shallow allows the whole board assembly including outer brake arm (J) to rotate away from inner brake arm (B2) adding too much outward pressure.
The goal is to find the sweet spot where there is some minimal inward pressure without binding.
This is explained more in the DVD
Shifter Side Board Installation
14)Remove stock shifter peg and replace with Delrin Cam Bushing (Y) FIG 38
Ideally you want to install allen nut only tight enough to allow bushing to still spin (we recommend a light oil between allen nut and bushing (Y). Preferred method is to tighten allen nut to a point where bushing cannot spin and then back out an 1/8th of a turn or so, until Delrin (Y) spins freely. This method requires thorough Thread Locking. If uncomfortable with this approach, feel free to lock the allen bolt down tight. However the wear characteristics of the Delrin Bushing will be compromised.
Mount outer shift arm by first sliding the now in place Delrin bushing assembly (Y), located at the end
Note: Make sure the bushing assembly (Y) locks in behind the inner safety rail of the Outer shift arm (J).
Note: For further adjustment shorten or lengthen your stock linkage rod.
Please reference steps 9,10,11 of Brake side install as they apply to Shifter side as well.
Note: You may choose to disconnect the brake side cable during shifter side alignment.
Note: For adjustment details please see Step 13
Again: The goal is to find the sweet spot where there is some minimal inward pressure without binding. This is explained more in the DVD
18) Cycle the boards with the switch all the up and back, checking for binding. This will be a trial and error
Note: Refer to all previous adjustment strategies Step 13)
19) When satisfied with installation adjustments, run boards forward all the way one at a time, so as to synchronize
Note: Please do not attempt to loosen Board Hinge bolts (on either side) and Slider Rod Bolts as they are adjusted and Thread Locked from the factory. FIG 42
20) Remove both cables at the Worm drive (W). Remove RED cap from pre-lubed black sheathes (E) and slide
capped end over bare cables and into drive motor (A) FIG 43
With sheath firmly inserted into drive motor, cable should extend about 5/8” beyond black sheathing. FIG 44
Note: Be careful with cables. Try not to operate motor attempting to help insertion as this may cause damage to cabling/worm drive.
You are essentially done, all that’s left to do is to zip tie the cable sheathes securely and away from exhausts. Avoid altering their natural path.
Once confident in installation activate Grip Switch to confirm engagement FIG 47
General Lube & Maintenance
Lubricate all points indicated FIG 48 Light grease or heavy oil works best.
Inspect at regular riding intervals. Six months or every three thousand miles.
Maintenance is minimal if installed properly. Lubrication is key.
•Road Rails will solicit numerous requests to demonstrate their function.
Keep in mind that operating them does consume battery power at a rate
much faster than say, leaving on your headlight. If a back to forward
cycle is taking 7 seconds or more, your battery is in need of a charge!
•The Brake Pedal has sufficient clearance from the power board in all positions, provided your rear brake pads are within tolerance. If you can make the Brake Pedal get within an inch of the power Board in the Board forward position (toe raised) consider it a warning that your rear brake pads need to be replaced. The Road Rail will function as a very effective gauge as to when to replace the rear brake pads. Never let the Brake Pedal, when applied, be able to contact the power board in the forward position.
•Be safe, Replace your Brakes!
•Road Rails will have a unique feel when actuated. Take some time to get acclimated with their feel. The main thing you will notice is that the Brake and Shifter ratios in the forward positions will require more deflection. Braking in the forward position will feel more like you have power Brakes. It will take more movement but will have greater leverage. The Shifter will simply require a little more up or down movement in the forward or toe up position. Find an open space and give yourself 5-10 minutes to play around with them. Be sure you are comfortable with their feel and operation before operating in “real world traffic” conditions.
(909) 557-3860
readingdesign@yahoo.com
