As of 2010, any modification to your touring bike requires a modification to the engine control module (ECM), the brains behind the fuel injection system. There are several ways to go, but the Zippers Thundermax is EFI made simple (part number #309-362 for TBW Big Twin models). If you reach out to Zipper’s, they will set up your Thundermax to accept the components you plan to install. Then the Thundermax ECU will read and adjust the timing and air fuel mixture each time you start your machine and modify if for best performance with their AutoTune system. Plus you will have all the capabilities to modify your ignition or air fuel mixture with your laptop computer.
Here’s Zipper’s Description:
ThunderMax with AutoTune is the industry’s first and only stand-alone performance EFI management system developed specifically to meet the tuning needs of throttle-by-wire H-D motorcycles. This highly advanced tuning system allows the user to install a wide range of performance enhancements, which post-fuel devices cannot support.
The all new ThunderMax AutoTune TBW module includes all of the great performance engineering that made the brand famous – with benefits you’ll notice immediately, including quicker throttle response, increased power and cooler operating temperatures.
The ThunderMax EFI System is built to deliver uncompromising performance, and you don’t have to be a rocket scientist to install it, program it, or make adjustments. The ThunderMax with AutoTune is a wide-band, closed-loop system, which means it continually and automatically adjusts your air-fuel ratios (AFR) every time you ride, regardless of changes in ambient conditions. All you have to do is ride and enjoy!
The ThunderMax System can never be outgrown. Change pipes, add cams, whatever! Just download a new map. ThunderMax software, firmware, and map updates are accessible 24/7 with an Internet connection.
The ThunderMax with AutoTune is made in the USA and backed by a three-year warranty.
System includes:
1. ThunderMax TBW ECM with Integrated AutoTune Module
2. Two Wide-Band Oxygen Sensors
3. USB Communication Cable
4. ThunderMax Tuner Software
5. ThunderMax TBW Quick Start Guide
Zipper’s Testimonials:
ThunderMax Throttle-by-Wire Testimonial Received 10/11/2010
I purchased the ThunderMax because I had to rebuild my entire engine (2009 FLHTC) into a mismatch “Frankenstein” motor. I ended up with S&S 106” Big Bore ported and polished heads, S.E. 260 cams and a stock throttle body with stock injectors. A dyno tune with another aftermarket device left the bike with a lot of HP, but some rideability issues. It had a huge flat spot at 2800 RPM that would almost launch you off the bike when you passed through it. Not really a lot of fun to ride!
After many hours of frustration, I decided to purchase the ThunderMax. Needless to say, I wish I had done this in the first place! The bike rides better than ever! It pulls strong from idle all the way to 6400 rpm. It is a much more rideable bike than it was before. If this tuner can make the mismatch of parts I have run this well, I’m pretty sure it can work wonders on anything!!!
W.H. – IL
ThunderMax Testimonial Received 10/09/2010
I was so impressed with the ease of installing the ThunderMax that I wrote a technical article on it and put it on Bikernet, Bikers Inner Circle and my own web site. I have ridden the motorcycle around the country covering motorcycle events and it has run well, changing itself to conditions. I continue to tell people how well it works and suggest they use one. I can have any ECM I want on my motorcycle and I chose ThunderMax. What does that tell you?
Rogue – FL
ThunderMax Testimonial Received 10/08/2010
Overall, the ThunderMax is great for us here in the North of Australia. We are 300 miles away from North, South, and West Australia, so we have completely different weather and road conditions. The self-learning tune works great. The customer and I love that fact that the bike stays in tune whereever you are! Great product!
Leeroy, Townsville Custom Cycles – AU
Okay, so now you know what we installed, here’s how the process progressed. First Rosie from Thundermax asked us to insert the TMax Tuner CD into our computer. It automatically opened and installed Shield Wizard when the computer found the CD. We followed the instructions and installed the software. The TMax Tuner software package is designed to run on personal computers using Microsoft Widows 2000, Windows XP, Windows Vista, and Windows 7 operating systems. The computer system must have an adequate amount of free space on the hard drive. The TMax Tuner will take approximately 140MB once installed.
Then we started the ECM ThunderMax installation. We removed the seat and both side covers. By pushing up on the bottom of the fuse box, we removed the cover, located on the left side of the bike. Next, we removed the ECM fuse from the fuse box.
Next, we removed the stock narrow band O2 sensors from the exhaust pipe.
2008-2009 models: 18mm sensors are located at the top of the head pipe; supplied 18mm wide-band sensors will replace the stock narrow band sensors.
2010 models: If you plan to retain your factory head pipes, 18mm bungs will need to be added to the head pipes. Bungs should be located no more than 3-4 inches from the head/pipe connection. Weld-in bungs are available from Zipper’s. In this case, we ordered 2009 two-into-one pipes from Bub and that answered that question in a snap.
We then installed the wide-band sensors into the pipes, routed the front sensor connection along the cross brace on the frame in front of the engine and down the lower frame rail on the right side of the motorcycle.
Then we routed the rear sensor lead between the transmission top cover and the starter, then towards the ABS caddy located under the right side cover. We placed the connector under the ABS caddy.
The next move was to remove the factory ECM from the caddy by spreading the plastic caddy latches at the side of the ECM. Lift the ECM up and to the right to release it from the caddy.
Disconnect the ECM from the connector. We depressed the button on the socket housing of the connector and rotated the locking bar until it reached the full rearward position (the index pin on the locking bar will engage the rear notch in the socket housing).
The connector internal latches are not fully disengaged until the locking bar on the connector is seated to the full rearward position to complete removal of the connector. If you force the socket housing with latches partially engaged, it will result in damage to the connector. Once the index pin is fully seated, with steady yet careful attention, pull apart the connector from the factory ECM and remove it from the motorcycle. This seems daunting, but not so. Just follow the instructions and you’ll complete the job in five minutes.
With the factory ECM removed, route the AutoTune harness through the opening on the right side of the frame below the downtube for the seat, towards the ECM caddy.
If with the bike has a factory alarm, detach the alarm antenna from the ECM caddy clip by lifting slightly and sliding to the right of bike (do not disconnect).
We located the orange package of dielectric grease included with the communication cable. Spread a small amount of grease on the AutoTune harness plug inboard of the mounting flange to allow the plug to easily slide into the ThunderMax ECM, with ThunderMax logo on the harness plug facing up. We attached it with the supplied screws.
Then we installed the main harness connector to the ThunderMax ECM. Before installing connector, lightly spread some dielectric grease on the harness connector terminals, and on the inside lip of the connector port opening of the ECM to allow the rubber weather seal in the connector plug to slide into place without binding.
Before connecting, verify that the locking bar is in the fully open, rearward position (locking bar index pin is fully engaged with rear notch in the socket housing).
Important note: If socket housing with grounding pin is not properly aligned during connector installation damage to the grounding pin will likely occur, which will require you to return the ThunderMax ECM for repairs.
We rotated the locking bar forward to engage the connector. Watch that the colored cam locks are moving with the locking bar; proper execution will show both colored cam locks visible in equal amounts on the forward-facing side of the connector when the locking bar is in its fully seated position with the button lock engaged, as in the image.
Important Note: Pin and socket housing of the connector must be fully engaged before you rotate the locking bar to the forward position. Forcing the locking bar forward before the connector is fully engaged will damage the connector and the ECM.
We placed the ThunderMax ECM into the ECM caddy. If equipped, position the alarm antenna.
We connected the oxygen sensor harnesses to the AutoTune harness. Carefully wire-tie the leads to the motorcycle. Take extra care to ensure wire leads are safe from rubbing or chaffing on the motorcycle. Use all supplied wire ties; add extra ties if needed to properly secure wiring on your installation.
We positioned the front connector lead along the lower frame rail between the engine and the transmission and attached it to the existing harness with wire ties. We carefully inspected all the wiring on Jeremiah’s bike to make sure it was clear of moving parts and exposure to excessive heat.
Lastly, we reinstalled the ECM fuse and replace the side covers. If you worked closely with Rosie or Dan, your ECM was mapped very close to your existing performance platform.
We moved ahead with our component installation. Included in the Zipper’s instruction is a complete programming guide for use with your laptop computer.
Then we shifted to installing the new all black 2-into-1 Bub 7 Exhaust System for 2009 Harley-Davidson touring models, but first we disconnected the battery to prevent problems, fires, or electrical nightmares during installation. We initially installed just a slip on muffler from Bub over the stock 2-into-1 system. The muffler has a tapered body that finishes at 4-inch OD, while inside, the 2.5-inch high-flow louver core baffle quiets things down.
Each muffler comes with an aluminum end cap in either chrome finish or black Teflon and has a BUB laser engraved collector heat shield. Mufflers are available with a polished chrome finish and an optional quiet baffle.
If you are looking for a slip-on muffler for your 2010 Street Glide or Road Glide Custom motorcycle, the BUB 7 FL 2-into-1 slip- on muffler is unbeatable. It has dual mounting capabilities, exceptional finish and quality, and offers excellent performance gains.
We decided to go all the way this round. Bub recommends using masking tape to cover paint and chrome to keep from damaging when removing and installing any components.
We removed the saddlebag and set them aside on soft rags.
We removed the right side floorboard from the OEM mount brackets. Then we removed the two OEM right side floorboard-mounting brackets.
Since we were replacing the 2010 pipe with a Bub 7 for 2009, we just left the 2010 sensors in place and we were good to go. We removed the muffler, then the OEM heat shields, and removed the exhaust manifold fasteners. Then we removed the right side transmission-to-header bracket, but saved the bolt and nut.
Then we removed the header pipe from the motorcycle. We checked both exhaust port gaskets for damage and replaced them as needed.
If you have a 2-into-2 system, you might need to remove the bracket from the starter. We removed the OEM exhaust flanges and retainer rings off the header system. There’s a terrific JIMS special tool for this operation.
If you damage a sprung retaining ring, you’re going to need to replace it before you move on.
Next, we installed the new Zipper’s 02 sensors with a touch of anti-seize on the threads, without touching the sensor tip. We torqued the sensors to 32 ft-lb.
We had to remove the transmission header bracket and replace it with the official Bub unit and torque the stock bolts to 13-15 ft-lb. At this point, the experts at Bub said to install the header-to-pipe bracket, but we left it loose.
At this point, they suggested that we install the #28 hose clamps into the heat shield clips located on the backside of the rear heat shield. Position the clamps so they are hidden from view when installed. Install the rear heat shield on the Bub 7 pipe. Leave the clamps loose. Jeremiah had a formula and so did I. In some cases, my formula worked, and in others, his did the trick. It’s important to take your time and study how the clamp will be positioned once on the bike for tightening access.
It’s also a good notion to lay the heat shields on a soft towel to prevent scratching.
We installed the new Bub 7 system on the bike and finger-tightened both the front and rear exhaust flange nuts. Bub suggested that we install the front heat shield last.
We installed the new transmission bracket clamp (0.560 width) around the front header pipe and through the header transmission bracket. We jockeyed the clamp and bracket not to interfere with the heat shield installation.
Then we installed the front heat shield like we did the others. Next, we slid the muffler clamp over the inlet end of the muffler. It’s a tad tricky to keep all the clamps dialed it. Make sure you are using the correct clamp for the application.
We slid the muffler onto the Bub 7 header system. Bub suggested we use glass cleaner as a lubricant to slide the muffler into the header.
With the muffler in place, we slid the muffler body spacers between the muffler body and the H-D saddlebag mount, then attached everything with two 5/16-18, 1 ¼-inch bolts with flat washers. We centered the muffler with the bolts loose, then tightened them to 13-15 ft-lb. Note: The muffler body mount spacers are made with a concave surface on the bottom to align with the contour of the muffler. We made sure they fit snug before tightening.
We torqued the front and rear header exhaust flange nuts to 10-12 ft-lb. We positioned the muffler clamp towards the backside of the muffler body and torqued the clamp to 7-10 ft-lb. Next, we tightened the transmission header bracket 3/8-16 hex bolt to 18-22 ft-lb. This is a tricky one, so follow the directions.
Tighten all the heat shield clamps. We tried to position all the clamp heads so they are accessible but out of view. We decided not to install the header collector heat shield for that mechanical look.
With supplied spacers, we spaced out the footboard between the frame and the front floorboard mounting bracket. Bub supplied us with brackets and new fasteners, which we touched with Loctite and torqued to 30-35 ft-lb.
We installed the floorboards and torqued them to 7-10 ft-lb. Bub suggested wiping the system down with glass cleaner to remove all fingerprints, grease, and dirt before starting the Twin Cam. They also suggested retightening all the fasteners after 50 miles, to catch anything before it loosens up.
Now for the final coup de gras: The Performance Machine Roland Sands designed Wrath Air Cleaner. The Wrath Air Cleaner features a versatile design that accepts interchangeable faceplates designed match to Performance Machine wheels. A K&N filter behind a stainless steel wire mesh screen allows high volume airflow, resulting in increased horsepower. The PM Wrath Air Cleaner is CNC-machined from billet aluminum with built-in crank case breathers and comes with chrome hardware. Universal air cleaners and faceplates are available in chrome and contrast cut finishes.
PM Super Gas Air Cleaners and design-matched faceplates are sold separately.
This puppy was a treat from the slick package, to the fitment and the chromed fasteners. Here’s how we did it:
The PM directions kick the process off by recommending to extinguish all cigarettes, open flames, land mines, joints, bongs, crack pipes, and don’t forget to shut down the meth lab.
We removed the five ¼-20 bolts holding the universal outer ring in place. Don’t throw anything away, you’re gonna need this stuff.
We removed and set aside the plastic spacer ring. This ring would be replaced by the new designed matched Wrath faceplate. We disassembled and set aside the beauty washer, ¼-20 flat head cap screw, and ¼-20 locknut originally installed on the air filter element, which will not be reused.
Then we installed the new Wrath design-matched faceplate into the universal outer ring, making sure the o-ring was properly positioned in the groove.
This was a breeze. We assembled and positioned the universal outer ring, Wrath faceplate, mesh insert, foam ring, air filter, and secondary plate.
Using the original ¼-20 by 2 ½-inch bolts and spacers, we secured the air filter assembly before tightening the bolts index and the Wrath plate to the desired orientation. We torqued the bolts to 8 ft-lb.
We were done, except to apply the desired PM adhesive badge to the center of the Wrath faceplate. PM supplied two badges, one silver and one black.
Don’t forget to reconnect your battery before you attempt to hit the road.
Since these simple mods, Jeremiah put a comfortable, pre-tuning 100 miles on his bike and let the Zipper’s Auto Tune do its work. Then he rolled to Bennett’s Performance in Long Beach for a dyno run. It’s sad, but a stock 96-inch Twin Cam pulls only about 65 horses and 75 pounds of torque. With the Bub slip-on muffler and a Wimmer air cleaner, it bumped to 70 horses and 84 foot-pounds of torque. With this upgrade, it popped to 74 horses and 87 foot-pounds of torque. He needs a cam and some mild headwork to make this puppy pull what it should with this platform. With this setup, he can go anywhere with the engine – high compression pistons, cams, headwork – and be ready to rock.
Sources:
JIMS:
Bennett’s Performance:
Bub Enterprises, Inc:
180 Spring Hill Drive
Grass Valley, CA 95945
(800) 934-9739
www.bubtech@bubent.com
K&N Filters:
http://www.knfilters.com
Performance Machine:
Zippers:
To order, call 410-379-0909. Orders received by 5:00 p.m. EST. ship same day! This item qualifies for *** FREE GROUND FREIGHT *** in the lower 48 states within the USA!
