The Sturgis Buffalo Chip created the Biker Belles to embrace women in motorcycling and raise funds for women charities. Toni from Buffalo Chip is Ron Woody Woodruff. The Chip well known in the giving back community. Toni has been involved and has done a fantastic job in coordinating this endeavor with icons such as Diva Amy Skaling and Laura Klock.

I am grateful it was held at the Deadwood Lodge allowing more time and an ideal place to have a conversation to share stories.

Team Diva is a sponsor of the Buffalo Chip Biker Belles Event held at the Deadwood Lodge had the Comfort Zone up and running with massages, haircuts and braiding, team Diva hats, 1LBC one of a kind jewelry and the Helping with Horsepower bikes set up with info on how to win and help.

Women from Canada, Montana, Wisconsin, New Jersey, Florida, Arizona seriously from all over.

This event has brought together female icons in the motorcycle industry and this year was no different.

Suzy Q. Yaffe wife of Paul Yaffe out showing support for women in motorcycling. She is a huge advocate for women in motorcycling and has continued to encourage women riding whenever she can.

Karlee Cobb breaking land speed records top speed 197 going for over 200 this year.

Kristy Swanson actress and motorcycle rider.

Jen Shade radio personality and artist extraordinaire and female motorcyclist.

This next gal is why I love this too.

First time solo rider from Florida. She was stood up by a partner she was to meet and decided to keep going. I encouraged her through Facebook and so did others and I had the pleasure of sharing a hug with her at this event and congratulating her for her self-determination. Marcy Meyer.

Of course we were there to celebrate Gloria Tramontin Struck’s 90^th birthday. Yes she still rides and she came from New Jersey to celebrate with us! Her story incredible. For a lady who said no I don’t want to ride she has sure been riding her own for a long long time! So let’s talk about the 3 generations representing women there. Gloria riding since 1941. Her daughter Lori her traveling companion for years. I have had both the pleasure to meet and ride with both many times. But let’s talk about the game changer.

 

Kathy DaSilva this gal not your ordinary gal but a 3^rd generation motorcycle rider. So the story goes her mom didn’t want her to ride. So she snuck out took the classes, got her motorcycle endorsement then went home and said guess what! LOL. That isn’t all that is it? Well, she wanted to be a Motor Maid like her grandmother. The convention in Canada was coming up and she wanted to ride with Gloria and her mother Lori to the convention but no motorcycle. Well a few days before she come home with her new motorcycle and rides 1780 miles to and from Canada. So let me say hats off to an incredible young 3^rd generation female motorcycle rider! I had the pleasure of meeting her at this event she is a lovely young lady and since I know both her grandmother and mother I am not surprised. Way to Go Kathy!

So yes there were strong women in the industry so many to remember them all. But isn’t this why we come together for the Marcy’s and the Kathy’s in this world. To share our experience, strength, skills and life lessons and story’s!

An awesome event and celebration. Toni and Diva you knocked it out of the park again!

THE HUMBLE ONE RETURNS– I was going to submit a small offering for BIKERNET about the 08′ Dyna with H-D 110-inch engine, just a quick blurb. 


Here are a few pics from my ride this morning, (my 41st birthday). The bike is extremely smooth considering it has been bored and stroked from the original 96-inch engine. 

I read your Indian article and it makes me smile to see you riding a bike you truly enjoy…trust me, I know the feeling. While a new Road Glide may enter my garage in a few years, I do not think I will ever be able to get rid of this little screamer. 

I only average about 40 mpg, but I have a heavy throttle hand. I recently raced my old V-Rod crew, and surprisingly was faster than them up to 100 mph. This bike is more quick than fast, but the power range is set up for a rider. I have no issues accelerating past an issue no matter the speed of traffic. 

The bike had just over 4k miles on it when I bought it a year ago. She is sitting at just over 12k miles now, and the only maintenance I have had to perform is fluids and a battery. The bike has automatic compression releases, but I am thinking a heavy duty starter might be in order as this battery already seems to be struggling after 6 months.

I read a lot of negatives in the forums about the H-D 110-inch, but I haven’t had any issues associated with common problems like the rear cylinder leaking. I do spray the engine with de-greaser every 3 months to really keep my eyes on the cylinder bases, but haven’t had any evidence of leaking yet.

Overall, it’s just a great bike to ride. It seems everyone and their brother is setting up their Dynas into the West Coast club style, but I am staying away from that. I really want this bike to keep the classic lines and be hard to distinguish my 2008 from a 1978. 

I think it looks great the way it is, but am slowly adding chrome details as I can scratch up the money. The biggest purchase so far was the wheel exchange and the Le Pera seat. 

I used Willy Shiny from your neck of the woods and would recommend him in a heartbeat. Great service, great wheels, and a very good price. The chrome wheels make the bike pop. 

The Le Pera Cherokee pleated seat looks like a flashback and is fairly comfortable. It gives great back support and a decent amount of cushion. The looks are second to none.

I can send more pics and info on the bike as I make more changes.

Until next time,

—Johnny Humble 

“We are honored to have Ms. Struck join our cause,” says Bryan Carroll, who directed Why We Ride and will direct I AM STURGIS. “Gloria is a legend. She inspires people whenever she rides, and she still rides a lot.”

 

“We do not trailer bikes. We ride to Sturgis every year,” Ms. Struck says. “My goal is to keep riding to Sturgis until I’m 100. The Black Hills, the custom bikes, the people from all over the world and, of course, the riding is like nowhere else on earth. It is not what you think, and it should not be missed. “

When making Why We Ride, Sturgis was the first filming location, and it had an immediate emotional effect on the filmmakers. “There is a spirit there that enters you and grabs your heart,” says Bryan H. Carroll, producer/director. “You put your hand on a boulder and you feel this energy; you can feel it in the air. It’s easy to understand why American Indians hold this place sacred.”

Why We Ride Films launched their crowd funding efforts with the goal of raising $350,000 of the production budget for I AM STURGIS through their Kickstarter campaign. With the help of Gloria Struck and others, they are on their way, but still hope for greater participation from motorcycle enthusiasts and the general public alike.

There are many contribution levels, starting with “The Wave,” a $5 donation that gets you a digital version of the movie poster. A $15 “First Ride” donation earns an early digital download of the film. Increasing donations up to $75 are rewarded with patches, pins, stickers, T-shirts and limited edition Blu-Ray/DVD film combo packs. Large-dollar (ranging from $125 to $10,000) donators receive Sturgis 75th Anniversary Club Rewards, movie premiere passes, and they can even get production
credits (up to “associate producer” and “co-executive producer”), access
to the Producer’s Private Pre-Party and private theatrical screenings in
their hometowns.

 

Those wanting to participate in crowdfunding this project can do so at www.IAmSturgis.com.

About Why We Ride Films: Why We Ride Films is the production team behind Why We Ride, a feature length documentary film. Since its December 2013 release, it has quickly become the most critically acclaimed motorcycle movie of all time. Independently distributed by producer/director Bryan H. Carroll and producer James Walker–recent recipients of American Motorcyclist Magazine’s 2014 Motorcyclists of the Year award–Why We Ride’s aim is to use the power of cinema not only to entertain but also educate, inspire and celebrate the world of motorcycling with audiences worldwide. To learn more about Why We Ride, visit WhyWeRide.com.

CH Wheat became a racing contender in Southern California in Class C dirt track and also roadraces, as well as off-road races in the west with top finishes at DeAnza Park, Catalina Grand Prix, Torrey Pines roadrace and more. He rode against some of the best of his era including Ed Kretz Sr., Ed Kretz Jr., Jimmy Philips, Ray Tanner, George Everett, Dick Dorresteyn, Johnny Gibson, Dick Mann, Tex Luse, Walt Axthelm, and Don Hawley. 

When he wasn’t racing, CH was building his motorcycle businesses. His most successful and well-known business is IMS Products. CH saw the need for innovative products such as extended-capacity fuel tanks, high-quality wide foot pegs, and more durable shift levers. They are best known for their high capacity fuel tanks for long distance off-road racing and affordable quick fill gas tanks and leak proof dump cans.

 

This is an easy one with a myriad of considerations. It’s easy because it’s a stock bike and Jeremiah changed his mind about being cool. He’s not lowering his scooter, and basically doesn’t want to mess with the stock configuration. There’s a world out there of guys who are beginning to feel that way. For us old outlaws who need to change and learn about everything, it’s a very scary thought.

Even lowering a stock bike doesn’t need to be a big deal. I spoke to Sean at Progressive and he told me the stock bike drill.

“As for your question about checking clearance,” Sean pointed out, “it’s not needed if using our application fitment tool on the website and given the correct part # for a bike. In Jeremiah’s case we used the application fitment tool on the website, looked up his bike and was given a part #. This part # is very bike specific. If we listed a part # for a certain bike it means we did a fitment check already and set the bottom out position in a safe location to avoid the stock OE setup from rubbing anything.” 

So in stock bike situations Progressive takes the guess-work out of the equation.

Again, I’m going to run through some of the Progressive material with thoughts from the Bikernet Tech staff. All of our comments are edited and scrutinized by the Supreme Bikernet Performance Editor, Ray C. Wheeler, between dyno runs with his Salt Flats racer.

Warning

Lowering your motorcycle will decrease initial ground clearance. The motorcycle will be lower to the ground and care should be taken to avoid bottoming, especially over bumps or in turns. Lowering a motorcycle can change the
handling characteristics. Always use extreme caution when riding after a change is made and take time to get accustomed to any handling change.

The motorcycle must be securely blocked up or jacked to prevent it from tipping over when the shocks are removed. Failure to do so can cause serious damage and ruin your entire week and paycheck.

The use of lowering blocks on Progressive Suspension shocks is not recommended. Use of a lowering kit may void the warranty or damage the shock/motorcycle. Progressive Suspension shocks are designed to work on the OEM (original equipment) frame and swingarm.

Use of these shocks on a frame or swingarm other than OEM may produce an unsatisfactory ride and void the warranty.

Shocks are like a miracle drug to the right motorcycle. For the wrong motorcycle, they can be a dangerous nightmare. There are a number of specific golden keys when it comes to shocks. There is travel, spring rate, and dampening. I like to talk to shock wizards constantly. If you’re a dirt bike rider you know the significance of those amazing shocks with tons of travel. We are working with shocks with very limited travel. Then, if we lower a bike, travel is reduced.

Take one pair of shocks and throw a few variables at them, like speed, or two-up riding, or traveling weight, even a different seat changing your position on the bike. Try altering the front end. Then there are road conditions to consider. I often wonder how the hell anyone designs shocks capable of a silky smooth ride over a 2-inch bump at 25 mph. So what happens at 40 mph over a 2.5-inch bump? It’s nuts and you begin to understand the need for computer-operated ride control in cars.

Progressive Suspension is just that. They have been progressive to work with, constantly testing and trying different configurations on custom bikes in search of handling and ride Nirvana.

Make sure that proper bushings/sleeves are installed in the shocks. Improper bushings/sleeves can cause unsatisfactory and unsafe operation (see the instructions packaged with the mounting hardware).

1. Place a quality jack or sufficient blocks under the
motorcycle to securely lift the rear wheel slightly off the ground. Actually, you need to lift the rear of the bike until the wheel is resting comfortably on the ground, but with no stress on the shock. You will know immediately as you loosen the bottom shock bolt. If it glides you’re golden. If it doesn’t, you need to adjust your jack up or down.

2. Using the correct shop manual for your bike, remove the old shocks and note location of mounting hardware. If additional accessories are installed on your motorcycle, please refer to their mounting instructions for removal to gain access to your shocks.

3. Before installing your new Progressive shocks, you need to check the tire to fender clearance, making sure that the tire does not come in contact with the fender. If the rear fender or tire has been changed to anything other than stock, a travel limiter may be required. On some models with side bags or luggage, the bag or luggage mounts may
need to be modified to eliminate any interference.

Since Jeremiah’s bike was stock, we didn’t have the above issues, but with my custom FXR, we needed to remove the springs with a nifty JIMS tool, install the shocks and lower the bike until the fender touched or the shock bottomed out. In one case, we used several travel limiters, which made us very aware of how much our shock travel was limited. We had maybe ¾-inch of travel.

Install the shock assemblies onto the motorcycle with the included hardware, noting any special instructions in the hardware kit. Tighten bolts / nuts to their proper torque. Check the clearances of the shock to the frame, shock to chain or belt, shock to chain or belt guard and shock to brake caliper and linkage.

We did the above and determined which spacers to run. They were a tight fit in the shock grommets, so we used a ½-inch bolt and nut to pull them into place. Done deal.

4. Reinstall any accessories removed in accord with their mounting instructions. Make sure accessories do not interfere with the shocks throughout their full travel. If any accessories bolt to the shock mounting points, a careful inspection must be make to ensure that they do not bind the shocks in any way. The shock eyes should have a
minimum clearance of .02-inch to insure the eyes are not binding.

5. Set your ride sag. The proper spring pre-load setting will permit the rear suspension to sag, or compress, approximately one inch from full extension. To check sag, take a measurement from the center of the rear axle, straight up to a vertical point on the rear fender or frame with the shocks fully extended.

Then take a second measurement using the same points with the rider(s) on the bike. The difference between the two measurements is the ride sag. If the bike is sagging too much, increase the pre-load. These shocks are set at the factory to minimum pre-load.

6. Spring pre-load adjustments are made by turning the upper (long) cover. Turn this adjuster clockwise to increase spring pre-load and counterclockwise to decrease spring pre-load.

Above the adjuster, there are four grooves, these are pre-load reference marks:

Minimum pre-load = No visible grooves

Maximum pre-load= four visible grooves.

Set the pre-load equally on both shocks using these reference marks as your guide.

NOTE: The adjuster is a threaded device, so if you rotate the adjuster (upper cover) fully to the minimum or the maximum setting, you will
feel a sudden increase in rotational resistance as you reach the end of the range of adjustment. This sudden increase in resistance is the adjuster tightening against its stop. When you feel this, we recommend that you turn the adjuster back from the stop by approx ¼ turn.

This will facilitate easy adjustments in the future. If the adjuster is tightened firmly against the stop, either at minimum pre-load or maximum, you
may have difficulty re-adjusting the pre-load by hand. Should this occur, the use of a strap wrench or similar tool will give you the needed leverage to rotate the adjuster away from its stop and return it to normal operation.

7. Test ride: If excessive bottoming occurs you need to increase your spring pre-load setting as described above.

Progressive Suspension warrants to the original purchaser of this part to be free of manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship with a lifetime warranty. In the event warranty service is required, you must call Progressive Suspension immediately with a description of the problem.

If after the evaluation of your report by Progressive Suspension board of directors, and no spelling errors are discovered, and the part was found to be defective, it will be repaired or replaced at no cost to you. If we replace it, we may replace it
with a reconditioned one of the same design. Your parts will be fixed at the exclusive Progressive Suspension Reconditioning facility in Rattlesnake Gulch in the Mojave Desert, and you are required to retrieve you components on foot with the original invoice in hand.

More than two minutes into our ride the dips and rises disappeared and our road leveled; the landscape was becoming less gray, less desolate and then suddenly we were surrounded by fields of tall wheat. We’d crossed from one Borderland into another so fast I couldn’t remember seeing where one ended and the other began. Speaking of fast, Kate’s added weight wasn’t slowing Larry down. Could he have programmed vitamins or steroids into his remap to override the Raider’s rev limiter? Could we have gotten to or exceeded 140 mph? We’d never find out. Looming ahead was an elevated highway.

All the while this seemingly harmless banter was taking place the driver’s car was inching slowly forward; at the same time another car that had pulled up was inching in behind us. Soon we’d be trapped. Was the movement of their vehicles simply the innocent creep of two drivers unknowingly releasing their brakes or a deliberate attempt to block the three of us from escaping? At the same time the driver’s car was inching forward Kate was inching her backpack upwards to where it was level with the car’s window.

“What you really want to be asking me, not to be rude, is will I shoot if you don’t move your vehicle?”

 

“Go, I’ll follow on the Raider,” it was my turn to shout. “The M109’s parked closest to the entrance to this side street and I’ve an idea how to use it, sorry Mr. Suzuki, so that it will slow down any pursuit.”

 

Hilts then drove the dump truck with Larry and Kate as passengers across the tracks. I was about to follow on the Raider when I looked behind me and saw the Alphas.

“Their eyes, aim for their eyes,” shouted Kate.

Shaun in the meantime, without exposing himself to any sunlight, was directing me when and where to turn by right and left pokes to my back.

“We’re too late;” shouted Shaun aka velociraptor aka chameleon, “save yourself…I’ll hold them off.”
“I won’t leave without you,” I shouted back at the same time I pulled up the sliding steel door leading into the other Borderland.

Coming soon

There was the Door to which I found no Key:
There was the Veil through which I could not see:
Some little talk awhile of ME and THEE
There was…and then no more of ME and THEE
By: Omar Khayyam…RUBAIYAT

How to look like a biker

1. You can’t go wrong with black, leather and denim.

Vendors always end up with back stock of gear from previous years’ events. If you want to look like you’ve been here before, what better than a “Myrtle Beach Bike Week 2009” shirt? Consider ripping off the sleeves for an even more convincing look.

They’re a dead giveaway that you’re a tourist and not part of the biker scene. Instead, consider boots or a worn pair of sneakers.

4. Consider sporting a temporary tattoo.

5. Do your best to blend in.
With thousands of bikes sitting around, no one knows which one is — or isn’t — yours, so why not act like you just pulled up on your Harley?
Wear a pair of sunglasses on your head, as if you’ve just hopped off a motorcycle. Even better, sport a do-rag on your head and slide your shades up over it.

How to talk like a biker

• Brain bucket: Slang term for a helmet. You may earn some bonus points if you gripe about how the City of Myrtle Beach started requiring riders to wear them a few years back — a decision which was overturned by the S.C. Supreme Court in 2010.

• Hog: Traditional nickname for a Harley-Davidson motorcycle

–Rogue

I’ve been around motorcycles, custom motorcycles and motorcycle restorations all of my life. I’ve been very fortunate to witness many of the best builders in the field. We have all witnessed greatness when it comes to motorcycling. I didn’t intend on blowing smoke. But you know the drill. Some builders reach way beyond the notion that motorcycles are just a machine.

 When it came to restorations, I worked with a pair who turned stock classic motorcycles into something more. They weren’t custom, yet they went way beyond stock restorations. That was Don Whalen and Tom “Rodan” Evans. They built only a handful of motorcycles, but each one was amazing. I will run an image of an example here.

Several decades ago, I started to see more restorations and got to know one of the masters, Mike Egan, in Santa Paula, California. I hope Mike and his wife Patty are still going strong. Then one day, a bike was being delivered to a friend’s house. He was waiting with rapt attention for his 1915 Harley to be delivered from the hills above Santa Maria, from a restoration expert, Steve Huntzinger.

I stood outside his lavish brick garage in Beverly Hills, California as this spindly old Harley rolled out of the back of an enclosed trailer and started to glisten in the afternoon sun. Suddenly, a rattletrap old motorcycle became a refined artistic jewel before our very eyes. Every detail was enhanced. A carburetor never looked so good. Every delicate detail was polished, nickel-plated, refined, pin-striped, engine turned, gold-leafed, wrapped in hand-stitched leather, or engraved.

I met Steve during this exchange, but he was a man on a mission and we spoke little. A couple more times we featured Steve Huntzinger restorations in Easyriders, and each time I was startled by the complete mastery of each restoration.

I’ve wanted to reach out and write a feature on Steve for years, but was concerned. Perhaps he was untouchable; he only talked to customers like Jay Leno or major wealthy collection owners. That wasn’t the case, as I discovered after a four-hour road trip across Los Angeles then up the coast to Arroyo Grande (est. in 1911).

Steve decided the city wasn’t for him or his wife, and he restored a 1930 Cadillac and sold it and a 1933 Ford sedan delivery in 1981, and bought a place in this Central Coast, seaside suburban and rural area near wine country. He built his shop on his acreage away from town.

He’s getting to be an old fart like many of us in this wondrous industry. We finally discovered how lucky we are to live and work in the two-wheeled world. Steve grew up around the Pasadena area. In 1970, he scored a mechanic job at Pasadena Honda, but after a short stint he got bored and went to work for a furniture refinishing shop, then a polishing shop.

In 1974, he bought his first Harley, a 1912 single, and he still has it. It’s in his living room today. He’s one of the fortunate ones to be able to hold onto shit, like his first hot rod, which he sold when he entered the military. But when he got out, he saw it featured in a magazine and bought it back. He still has it.

After the military, he worked at John Mclaglen Motors and was the last mechanic before the dealership closed in the mid ‘70s. Steve met Bud Ekins and would head over to his shop when he needed a part. One time, he asked about a particular motorcycle’s shift linkage and Bud had one.

“Take what you need off that bike,” Bud said. “Make what you need and return the originals to me.”

“Do you need a receipt, or something?” Steve asked.

“No, you’ll only fuck me once,” Bud said.

Steve never did and always returned what he borrowed. As we wandered around his spacious, single-story shop, Steve pointed out bikes he restored and projects like a 1913 H-D Single. He recently built himself a beautiful 1940 Indian Scout with a modern Cycle Electric generator.

Not too long ago, he restored the last Crocker ever built, number 310, built in 1942. Steve made the pipes and the mufflers. It was an interesting beast with a longer wheel base frame and a strange sprung contraption under the seat for suspension.

He had Chris Sommer’s 1915 Excelsior-Henderson. It ran in a recent Cannonball. Steve gets a kick out of each restoration challenge.

“It’s that bored mentality,” Steve said. “That’s why I like restoring old cars and bikes. Each one is different and poses different challenges.”

He’s worked with the same painter, Larry Fergureson, and pin-striper, Jim Ferren, for 25 years. We wandered past a 1901-02 Cleveland shaft-drive bicycle by Pope, then a Henderson four mini-Packard car, and an IMP Cycle Car powered by a Mac V-twin from 1915 and driven by two long leather belt chains.

 “It often won’t work around a specific mechanical process,” Steve said. “You just need to go for it by hand.”

He’s one of those guys who folks trust with their most valuable possessions. They turn it over and Steve will call them when it’s done. Each motorcycle has multiple stories, history, and restoration challenges, and no one handles them with the true spirit of an accomplished artisan as well as Steve.

In a sense, he is an artist capable of taking an old seemingly junk motorcycle and turning it into a Rolls Royce on two wheels. His art is even met with respect from antique bike judges who know and understand his over-restored model characteristics. They get it, respect his fine workmanship and celebrate each offering, rather than to scorn his accomplishment.

Editor’s Note: This article was published in Easyriders in 1995, but it’s still applicable today. At the time it covered the new Carl Morrow Typhoon billet Carburetor. Since then there has been some tweaking and Carl installed a Thunderjet on this Typhoon for the 5-Ball Racing Salt Torpedo we are building with a 135-inch JIMS twin cam and a JIMS heavy-duty 5-speed transmission.

Here’s the ThunderJet description from Zipper’s:
ThunderJet is a jet-able, externally mounted third fuel circuit that improves the performance of 2-circuit carbs such as the S&S Super. Unmodified, these carbs typically have a low speed, or intermediate, circuit that supplies fuel from idle to approximately 2500 rpm, at which point the carbs’ main jet circuit becomes active, delivering more fuel to the engine. These two circuits must then supply fuel for the rest of the rpm range.

The problem is: the remaining rpm range is too wide (typically 2500-6500 rpm) for only 2 circuits to handle efficiently. The tuner generally encounters problems jetting the carb to give good, crisp mid-range response and still have strong topend power. A compromise is the result. Back the main jet down, carburetion in the mid-range is good but top-end is lacking. Increase the main, top-end improves but now the mid-range is rich; flat spots or hesitation is encountered. The answer? ThunderJet from Zipper’s Performance!

Here’s the Typhoon Article from 1995:

Carl Morrow of Carl’s Speed Shop, previously located in Santa Fe Springs, California, had two missions in life. The first was to find ways to make Harley’s go faster, and put his riding son, Doug, in as many record books as possible. The second was to get the hell out of California! So, he’s moved his entire family (they all work with him in his shop) to the seaside community of Daytona Beach, Florida. Carl’s new shop was under construction during the 1995 Octoberfest; he’s opening for business in January. By the time of Daytona Bike Week 1996, his shop, located at 390 North Beach Street (a couple of blocks north of Daytona Harley) will be in full swing.

Performance is Carl’s passion. His latest accomplishment is the polished Typhoon billet carburetor, based on the slide-type CV and the early side bowl Linkerts for Sportsters and the very first Shovels. Of course the famous S.U. carb was an influence. Three classic carbs went into this design. The round slide in the front of the carburetor moves up and down with engine demand, keeping the velocity of the incoming air high, and allowing for extremely accurate fuel metering throughout the entire engine operating range.

The carb is simple, since the CV system allows Carl to do away with accelerator pump, idle circuits, and primary and secondary jets, and leaves owners with only one jet orfice to contend with. This jet is the brass fitting in the center of the table beneath the slide. It is penetrated by the jet needle, which is attached to the slide. As the slide lifts the needle from the jet, it allows more fuel into the venturi.

Since Bandit is a speed freak, we decided to take the plunge with his Dyna Glide. The Bandit Glide is a ’92, with dependable performance from Bartels’ Performance Products, and uses.080 shaved and ported heads, a BP 20 street, grunt cam, Bartels’ one-off pipes, Screamin’ Eagle Ignition and carb. The bike has always performed and held a constant 80 horses. It’s no slouch.

Carl went to work first removing the Screamin’ Eagle carb and Bartels’ manifold. He then bolted on his large plenum intake manifold loosely and installed the mounting strap to the center case bolt. Barnett cables are provided with the kit (push and pull, or just pull), but we chose to use Barnett braided cables. They work fine, but a slight modification had to be made to the cable end, which enters the guide at the billet throttle runner.

Their cable ends, which protect the branded material, are stronger and more substantial than stock. Consequently, they ran into one another at the guide. With a slight tweak on just one of the cable ends, they both slipped in without a problem. I suggested greasing the cable runners in the throttle body and next to the carb, and dripped some 30-weight down the cable–before final assembly–to ensure long life.

For a precision fit and a polished appearance, the entire carb is billet aluminum–even the cable linkage. Carl then installed the carb without the dome cover or the piston, installed the gas line, and turned on the gas. There is a small bridge under the piston and inside it is the main (the only jet). The float level transmits to this chamber and the gas level should be close to the top, approximately .060 to .080 below the jet orfice table–but not overflowing.

–Keith R. Ball
Editor, Easyriders Magazine

This is your built-in accelerator pump, choke system. That puddle of fuel is always at the ready when the engine demands it. If the level is improper, take the carb off the bike and dump the gas. Take the float bowl cover off by removing the four stainless steel Allen screws holding it.

Use caution not to tear the gasket. Locate the float and examine its operation. Corrections can be made by bending the stainless steel tang on the end of the float up for higher fuel level, or down for a lower fuel level. It is recommended to keep the level where specified; otherwise, the chance of flooding is increased. Replace the gasket and float cover. Tighten the screws snugly, but carefully, and avoid stripping threads.

With the float adjusted, Carl mounted the carb to the manifold with the piston and needle in place, and dome cap installed. There are only two adjustments to the Typhoon; the idle adjustment, and the main enrichener.

For idle adjustment, locate the throttle wheel attached to the throttle shaft at the rear of the carb. Just in front of this wheel, you’ll see a chrome thumb screw. If you screw it in clockwise, it will open the throttle disk, increasing the engine rpm and vice versa. It’s easy to adjust for cold idling and running.

The second adjustment is the main jet enrichment. The bolt and lock nut can be found at the very bottom of the carb body. To richen the overall mixture, release the lock nut and turn the adjustment bolt counterclockwise in small (one hex flat at a time) increments. To lean the mixture, turn the bolt clockwise. Make all adjustments slowly, then tighten down the lock nut snugly. Remember: Left is rich, right is lean. If at highway speeds the carb spits back, it’s running too lean.

Carl completed the assembly, took the Dyna for a ride, made minor adjustments, and turned it over to me. This Dyna’s always been a solid runner, and the song it sang was louder than ever. “I need forty-eight mph grunt to escape L.A. traffic,” Bandit said, “The grab at the low end has never been this strong. It’s instantaneous.”

Carl touted a 4- to 6-horsepower gain with the billet air cleaner or the nasty-looking velocity stack, respectively. But as all riders come to realize, the ideal grunt is in the seat of the pants. Bandit was so impressed, he rode directly across town 50 miles to Marty Ruthman’s Hi-Tech Custom Cycles in Van Nuys, California.

Marty builds fast bikes, He knows when a bike is performing, and he was almost launched off the rear of the seat when he hit second. Returning to the shop, Marty cleared his Dyno and said, “I’ve got to Dyno this puppy. It’s fast.”

To confirm the bike’s consistency, Marty ran the bike through its paces twice. With no modifications other than the installation of Carl’s Typhoon carb, it performed to 90 hp with 90 pounds of torque. Marty has since ordered a half dozen, and four are already out the door with similar results. “I mounted one on a guy’s bike and he was so pleased he brought me a box of imported cigars the next day. “Hell,” Marty said, “I don’t even smoke.” But the bikes with Carl’s carbs sure do.

–Article researched by Richard Kranzler
Bikernet Baggers

About Carl’s Speed Shop:

Dedicated to reliable performance since 1969, Carl’s Speed Shop has strived to achieve record setting levels of performance through extensive testing. Carl’s method of testing, however, is quite different from the ordinary. Many claims have been made about horsepower gains, flow bench numbers and Dyno results. Carl is a bit more real.

What Carl has learned at Bonneville applies rather well to high performance Harley street bikes. To supplement that program, we run many combinations at the drag strip to develop really great performance packages that mean real performance, not just numbers. You, our customer, reap the benefits of our years of experience, and you can bet that Carl’s Speed Shop can back up any product or service that we sell. Reliability in business is a key factor

Sources:

Carl’s Speed Shop

From Interstate I-4 Orlando Area East to 95 North on I-95 Exit US 92, International Speedway Blvd. East to Beach Street, Then Left {north) 5 Blocks on the left side.

From Interstate I-95 Exit on US 92, International Speedway Blvd. East to Beach Street Then Left on Beach Street, ( North ) 5 Blocks on The Left Side.

Zipper’s Performance

JIMS Machine