ROAD KING REPORT–Initially I had some questions regarding Road Kings. I wanted to know some about the frame geometry. I perfer a little trail over low speed, parking lot handling. I like to run fast and stable. Next I’m old school. I perfer a bike with minimun extras so I lean toward a carb model over the fuel injection, EFI models.

I immediatly spoke to an expert, Paul from Charlotte, H-D:First as you always say “What year is the damn thing”??????? If it’s a newer model why get rid of the EFI?? The new stuff works good. Harley has new sofware to tune the thing, just out from the dealer show. This will put a big hurt in the Powercomander II and any other after market add on stuff!!!! It’s in the new P&A book for ’03 in the Screamin Chicken (Eagle) section. I like the new Dephi stuff. Also BC Gerolamy has a new dual throat induction throttle body for the Delphi system that is kick ass!!

To take off the system, man it’s lot’s off work. The ECM has all this start up shit it goes thru. checking all the system’s and sensors. Again I have never done this. So to be honest I just don’t know for sure on this one. I can run it by Old Bob tomorrow and see what his thoughts are on both the frame/trees and removing the EFI.

On the frame, my first thought is no. Are you familiar with what they did to the trees? They are not like the old FL stuff at all. The stem is in front of the fork tubes. This makes it a self centering front end. One of the tests they have to do at Talledega on the track is to smack the handle bars hard at 80 MPH++ and see if the damn thing will straighten itself out!!!!

I’ve never thought about doing this so who knows maybe it could be done. Christ you come up some stuff man. Was Jack Daniels involved in all this brain storming??

A week later…

’03 is good year for the Road Queen. The EFI is much better than years past.My question to you is why do you want to loose the EFI?? What are your plans?? Pipes, Big Bore, Stroker kit?? We just did a 103 Stroker kit with cams, heads and a V&H 2-into-one pipe, megaphone, on a ’03 Road Queen for a salesman. He should have used a Thunder Header but most of these clowns want the magazine yuppy chrome look. Shine and billet are in I guess, drives me nut’s!!!!!

You can remove the fuel pump and that shit from the tank. You can put a regular fuel valve in the tank in place of the EFI fuel line. There are two bung’s on the left side of the tank, one is plugged. I did make an adapter for a fuel valve for a Softail EFI bike once. The guy bought these tanks at a swap meet and didn’t know they were for fuel injection.

I think maybe you might just need to change the ECM from EFI to a Carb. ECM. Disconnect the senor’s, eng. temp, crank pos., induction module stuff. Do the tank, install a carb and you might be just be down the road. That way you could leave all the stock wiring and shit in place if you ever wanted to go back to EFI.

On the trees I guess when they went to that style the early top tree was just turned around for that newer style configuration. Don’t know about the setup now. If you did a rotation of the top tree putting the fork tubes forward the bars would be in a different forward location. That would screw up all that headlight cover shit. You might be able to put a complete early FL front end on. Hey maybe even the adjustable sidecar trees. Remember them? The front fork’s are non-air assist now.

I’ll keep plugging away on this “Amazing Raked Road Queen” project for you. I can check out some front end’s and take a better look. Also will try to call tech services at H-D and see what won’t say!!!

–Later, PSD

The Harley-Davidson Custom Vehicle Operations (CVO) team pumps upits wild Screamin’ Eagle Road King for 2003 with the biggestdisplacement engine ever offered in a production Harley-Davidsonmotorcycle a 103 cubic-inch (1690cc) Twin Cam V-Twin tuned to producemore than 100 lb-ft of torque.

Based on the popular FLHRI Road King model, the 2003 CVO Screamin’Eagle Road King features a host of exclusive custom features andaccessories from Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories. Theheart of the 2003 Screamin’ Eagle Road King, however, is the enginecreated by combining Screamin’ Eagle Big Bore cylinders and a strokerflywheel and rod assembly to the standard Harley-Davidson Twin Cam 88engine. Bore and stroke grows from 3.75 x 4.00 inches to 3.87 x 4.37inches, while displacement is boosted from 88 ci (1450cc) to 103 ci(1690cc). Compression is bumped up slightly, from 8.9:1 to 9.0:1.

The standard EFI system is reprogrammed to match the increaseddisplacement while retaining the crisp throttle response of the stockTwin Cam 88 EFI engine. The drivetrain is reinforced with ahigh-performance hydraulically actuated clutch, a custom oil coolerand a high-strength final drive belt. The result is a motor thatmeets 50-state emissions and sound regulations yet pumps out 100lb.-ft. of arm-stretching V-Twin torque at 3500 rpm, a 20 percentincrease over the stock Twin Cam 88 engine. The engine will beavailable in silver with chrome trim and is fitted with chromeTouring Mufflers.

Motorcycles created by the Harley-Davidson CVO program arelow-volume, custom models produced by a hand-picked team oftechnicians on a special assembly line at the Harley-Davidson plantin York, Pa. Approximately 3,200 examples of the 2003 Screamin’ EagleRoad King will be manufactured. Suggested U.S. retail for theScreaminí Eagle Road King is $27,995 ($28,095 in California).

The FLHRSEI2’s monster motor powers a Road King like no other.Start with the hand-painted Centennial Gold finish with Vivid Blackand Burgundy accents and a gold leaf fuel tank emblem. The frame,swingarm and footboard supports are powder coated in matchingCentennial Gold and the wheels are solid, bright-polished spunaluminum. The bike is dressed up with chrome and billet accessories,including chrome 1.25-inch diameter handlebars, custom billet-stylechrome fuel tank console, chrome billet heel/toe shifter, and StratumCollection chrome billet timer, derby and air cleaner covers withcolor-filled script.

Rider and passenger will enjoy a custom leather seat with chromebuttons, adjustable rider backrest and detachable passengerbackrest. The dark Lexan custom mini wind deflector is detachableand other features include cruise control, a H-D factory securitysystem with siren and a custom indoor storage cover.

The 2003 Screamin’ Eagle Road King delivers the power and theglory that are genuine Harley-Davidson. Features of the 2003 FLHRSEIScreamin’ Eagle Road King include:

Twin Cam 103 TM Powertrain finished in Silver and Chrome
Hand-Painted Centennial Gold with Black & Burgundy Accentsincluding Gold Leaf Fuel Tank Emblem
Color-matched Centennial Gold Powder Coated Frame, Swingarm andFootboard Supports
High Performance Clutch with Hydraulic ActuationChrome Fat 1 inch Diameter Handlebar with Internal Wiring
Chrome Clutch and Brake Master Cylinders, Chrome Switch Housingsand Chrome Hand Levers
Custom Oil Cooler
Custom Oil filter Mount with Internal Thermostat
High Strength Final Drive Belt
Chrome Voltage Regulator
Black 1.4 kw Starter
Coated Braided Stainless Steel Throttle Control
Coated Braided Stainless Steel Front Brake and Clutch Lines
Custom Leather Seat with Chrome Buttons with Detachable PassengerBack Rest and Fully-Adjustable Rider Backrest
Chrome Oil Vent Line with Chrome Fitting
Chrome Oil Line Cover
Chrome Extended Reach Billet Brake Lever
Chrome Billet Heel/Toe Shifters
Chrome Headlamp Bezel
Chrome Lower Triple Tree Cover
Custom Full-Length, Billet-style Fuel Tank Console
Stratum Collection Chrome Billet Timer, Derby and Air CleanerCover with Color-filled Script
Matching Mini Tach Mount with 100th Anniversary Badging.
Polished Spun Aluminum Solid Wheels
Chrome Front and Rear Floating Brake DiscsAnd More

For additional information on the Screamin’ Eagle Road King andHarley-Davidson Genuine Motor Parts and Genuine Motor Accessories,visit the Harley-Davidson Web site at a href=”http://www.harley-davidson.com”>www.harley-davidson.com. To find a dealer near you, call toll free1-800-443-2153 in the U.S.A. or Canada.

Back to Part 1……..

A bike in a box, I like the concept. The first thing that pops into my mind is that I’m gonna drop some pretty good coin into a cardboard box the size of a fuckin refrigerator and this is supposed to be my transportation. What kind of parts are lurking in Styrofoam peanuts and bubblewrap?

Well I am not building a motorcycle from a box but my bro is. My friend Bones started with CCI’s Bad Ass ridged chopper kit. It’s a wide-tire rigid frame that sports a Wide Glide front end, five-gallon two-piece tanks and a 100ci RevTech engine with a RevTech 6-speed transmission. Bones isn’t new to American motorcycles. He’s been riding for 35 years and has owned Pans, Shovels, Evolutions and the TwinCam88. He has a nice portfolio of choppers, dynas, dressers, cruisers and customs. He is not a top- notch bike builder or a mechanic or anything, just a man who has been around the block a few times and down two lanes many times. He’s a local club patch holder, someone’s brother, father and husband — a real standup guy in my book.

I’m taking this opportunity to let people know whether this is worth the bread or not. My bro doesn’t have a mechanic’s shop or air tools and lifts, just basic tools and common knowledge, or basic knowledge and common tools. I just want my buddy to have a safe and dependable ride that he has put his time, effort and a little piece of his heart into.

On to Part 2………

Six burly fuckers lifted the awkward, bulky, cardboard box into the back of the pickup. We stopped at Wal-mart and bought a $100 motorcycle lift. It has a hydraulic jack with a foot pedal pump, locking safety bars and is good to 1,500 pounds. It’s a necessity for the project since it will lift the bike about 18 to 20 inches to allow easier part installation. You can also move the project bike around the floor on the rolling lift.

We backed up to the garage and ripped open the box with pocket knifes. The tires were lying on top of the frame and boxes were nestled inside. Inside those boxes were more boxes and packaged components. We got all the stuff into the garage, sat down, had a beer and stared at the cool RevTech engine crate.

We kept the paperwork no matter what it was with. Slowly we sorted the individual parts in the best order possible down one side of the garage. It was really cool just looking at all those packages, with the chrome-plated goodies and unfinished sheet metal tank that began to take on a paint job in our imaginations.

There is a lot of stuff here — Santee, Accel, Spyke, Doss, Custom Chrome, Jesse James, RevTech, OEM Harley-Davidson, etc…. all in a $11,500 bike kit…

Operation Bad Bones is now in progress.

There aren’t any instructions so a basic knowledge of motorcycles is required.

Bones mounted the fat and skinny Avons on the 40-spokes down Randolph’s Exxon. He bitched a little as he stuffed in the tubes. I drank a couple beers.

A person needs to pre-assemble the bike before anything is done, making sure no parts are missing. It may be a kit, but that doesn’t mean everything is going to work together or even be included in the shipment. The parts are not in any specific order so it takes quite of bit of time searching for the correct bolts, washers and locknuts for whatever parts you’re putting together.

By Sunday evening, the metal was starting to look like a motorcycle. We encountered a few missing parts in this stage, but they were minor. There were no rear brake shoes, no small screws to hold the stator and no bracket or bolts for the oil tank. Most of this stuff is available at a parts store, but we’re going to see if CCI will stand behind its product. First we’re going to tell the shop where Bones got the kit.

-Smack

Back to Part 1………

Your stock Harley has something exposed that you may want to coverup. There’s some ugly issue on your new bike that is screaming foryour attention, and if you are a little crafty, you can work throughthis problem. What’s this nasty problem? Your handle bar controlswiring problem, that’s what. You know those heinous wires that comeclipped to the outside of your handlebars for all to see. Internalizethose wires, and then they will be out of the picture for good. Readon and I’ll explain the basics of hiding those unsightly wires.

You are about to make a commitment that won’t be impossible toreverse, but before you decide to wire your handlebars internally,make sure that you have chosen the correct bar for you and your bike.Stock bars on a Harley are polished stainless steel. They lookgood right when your new bike rolls off the showroom floor, but inabout a year they’ll look duller than a board meeting in Duluth.So you might consider swapping out the stock bars for chrome ones.There are literally a million choices and styles, and prices canrange from $35 to $300 for something exotic. Make sure that you arecomfortable with how the bars feel and look on your bike before youcommit to running the electrical wires inside the reigns. Nothing ismore frustrating than riding all day in the saddle of anuncomfortable bike, especially if it belongs to you.

There is still one other consideration to be addressed before youswap handlebars. Make sure that your clutch cable, brake hose andthrottle cables will still reach if you decide to change out yourbars. There is a fairly large zone where all of your stock hoses andcables will reach when you change your bars. If you choose asignificantly taller or wider handlebar, you’ll be swapping out allof those cables too. If the bars of your dreams are going to involvea full cable swap too, I’d suggest taking your bike to a qualifiedmechanic because of the safety issues associated with that type ofundertaking. (There’s a tech right here on Bikernet that covers all aspects of a highbar transformation.

OK, now you’re ready to tackle the issue at hand, hiding thewires. On a ’96 or older Harley, there are 14 different color-codedwires in the bars, seven on each side. On the ’96 or newer bikesthere’s only 12 wires to deal with, six on each side. Regardless ofthe year, the wires are inside a vinyl loom that has been clipped toyour stock handlebars. On one end of the loom are your switches andcontrols by the grips and at the other end is a connector that plugsinto the rest of your wiring harness.

There are two types of wire loom connectors, ’96 and newer bikeshave a “water-tight” Deutsche style connector. The earlier bikes havea “Mate ‘n Lock” connector. You’ll need to remove the dash and fueltank to get to the connectors on Softails or Dynas, which is probablylocated near the top frame tube. Be careful to drain your tanksbefore you remove them, and yes, gasoline is flammable. Don’tmess with gas in your garage if you don’t have proper ventilation,and certainly never mess with fuel if you have a gas water heater inyour garage. Can you say “Boom?”

Once you’ve found the connectors location and before you un-plugthem, grab a sheet of paper and take some notes. There are twoseparate connectors, one for each side of controls on each bar. Makesure you note which plug went where, and all of the color-coded wireshave a specific location too. Make a diagram of the plug with eachcolor-coded wire tied into their appropriate location in the plug.This step will save you a ton of cussing later on when you don’tremember what went where.

The Deutsche connectors have an orange cap on the end, which youcan pry off with a small screwdriver. Once that cap is removed,you’ll see a plastic clip, which holds the wire terminal. Gently prythe tab away from the connector and pull each wire from theconnector. The earlier “Mate ‘n Lock” connectors have a metal barbbuilt into the wire terminal. You’ll need a small pick to bend thetab back inside the connector, to pull each wire out of theconnector. Bend the tab back to it’s original position and you canreuse the same terminal.

Now it’s almost time to remove your handlebars from the bike.Remove the clutch lever and the brake master cylinder at the clampslocated on each control. Don’t remove the clutch cable or the brakehose from the levers unless you want to trade them out for chromepieces, or just feel like making this a much bigger project for noapparent reason. Make sure to protect your front fender from danglinglevers. The switch housing bolts on the right control hold thethrottle housing and cables. Loosen the cable adjusters on eachcable, and then you can remove the throttle grip. The handlebars cannow be removed along with the switch housings. Remove all the rest ofthe switch housing away from the bike to save your aching back.

Lets get to drillin’. Your new bars may be pre-drilled so you canskip this step. If you need to drill the bars, center punch theappropriate locations under the switch housing locations for thewires to enter and at the center of the bar under the riser for thewires to exit. Start drilling with a smaller bit (Approximately1/4-inch in diameter) to make a pilot hole, and then drill at least a1/2-inch finish diameter hole. Make sure to de-burr the edges insideand outside of each hole with a file or sand paper so they don’tlater cut into the wire insulation. (See the burr tissue test in thehighbar wiring article.) That would be very bad, and you might notknow it until you are stranded at the furthest point from home or acell tower.

Find a piece of stiff wire and run it through the inside of thebars to use as a trail-blazer guide for the rest of the wire loom.Take the end of the single wire and wrap it around the connectors asstreamlined as possible. Get some of that “Strapping” tape you hadleft over from mailing a package last Christmas and wrap it aroundthe bundle of wire, you are about to pull through the bars.Electrical tape will do, but I’ve found that the strapping style oftape does not get snagged inside the bars as easily as the rubbertape, and it seems to grip a little better when you are tugging on it.

Gently pull the wire loom through the bars. At this point youmay want to double check to make sure that you are pulling the rightside switch wires through the right side of the handle bar. Youwon’t be the first to pull them on the wrong side. A simple way toremember which bundle is appropriate for each side is that the bundlewith the Violet wire (Vio-LEFT) is on the left side and the bundlewith the brown wire is on the right side.

Mount the bars in the reverse order described above back on yourmachine. Replace all the wire terminals and the connectors in thesame place that you removed them from (this is where those notes youtook come in handy). Then turn on your ignition switch and make surethat everything functions correctly before you re-assemble the switchhousings. Adjust your throttle cables to allow for maximum throttlewithout binding. When you release the throttle grip, it shouldreturn all the way and not bind if you adjusted it correctly.

Securely mount your fuel tank and dash. Don’t forget the Loctite.Wipe all of your fingerprints off your masterpiece with a soft cottoncloth while you bask in the afterglow of pride and accomplishment.Mission Accomplished.

On the other hand, you might feel like this is a project for aprofessional. Hopefully you can now better appreciate and understandthe skills involved. Internal handlebar wiring is not as simple as itsounds at first glance. As with most anything you modify on yourbike, craftsmanship is king, and if you are not confident in yourabilities shoot yourself and have your widow sell the bike to me.Otherwise you might make a disaster out of what could have been a funproject.

Remember, Keep the rubber side down.

–John Covingtonjohn@surgicalsteeds.com

©2003 John Covington/Surgical-Steeds

Back toSurgical Steeds…

Illustration by Jon Towle

“Aw’ right. How many of you pencil necked geeks think you know how toride a motorcycle safely?” Our instructor, Wayne Jackson, grinned at ussardonically, as he tried to instill in us some degree of learned caution.We were all planted in the drewery classroom for a variety of reasons, some to qualify for the DMVmotorcycle riders license, some to reduce their insurance premiums, some toincrease their skills, some because they know how dangerous riding amotorcycle can be. As for me, I’m trying to scrunch down in my seat as lowas possible.

“I would strongly suggest we close the doors,” Wayne slaps a hammy mitt onthe side of his muscled arm, “the mosquitoes are rabid and vicious,” as hecrushes a fragile bug body. I look cautiously around for West Nile ladenkiller bugs, licking their killer bug lips. Harbor College is located in themidst of a swampy oil drenched bog at the edge of the L.A/Long Beach Harbor.A group of 18 to 20 neophyte and experienced, men and women are awkwardlyseated in a sweltering classroom at Wilmington’s Harbor College. We’veassembled to experience the Motorcycle Training Center’s “Riding and StreetSkills Course.” The training schedule includes two evenings of classroomtraining and two days of riding on their course.

“More than half the riders involved in motorcycle accidents have less than 5months riding experience,” Wayne quotes statistics from the HURT STUDY ofmotorcycle accidents. This 1980 5-year study by Prof. Harry H. Hurt is thebasis for most of the course content.

As for me, I’m starting to have uncomfortable flashbacks to my 1969 Armybasic training. My college education is for naught. What bike ridingexperience I have ran out the door screaming. I’m back to the militarytraining logic of, “There’s the right way, the wrong way and then there isthe Army way.”

My momentary flashback hallucinations are brought suddenly back to thepresent by Wayne’s intense stare in my direction. He has obviously asked mea question while I was back at Viet Nam era Ft. Ord, trying not to be thedumbest recruit ever drafted.

“Sir,” I vainly stumble at toadying to authority.

“Who’s the most vulnerable on the road?” Wanye’s expressionless stare in mydirection caught me like a deer in headlights. I stared back in fearfulincomprehension.

Answering for me, “Šthe motorcyclist.” Wayne continues, “36% ofmotorcycle/car accidents in which the car is going 50MPH, have an impactspeed of 50MPH. What do you think that indicates?” Wayne lightens the drillinstructor demeanor enough to lower my panic response. But I still can’t getmy brain to signal my lips fast enough to speak.

“It means that the car driver didn’t see the motorcyclist, and that the bikerider isn’t sufficiently experienced to avoid the accident.” The whole classbreathes a sigh of relief as one.Wayne Jackson is one of a number of instructors who teach the “MotorcycleRider Course: Riding and Street Skills.” My other instructors included:David Bransky, Tim Thielmans and John Mueller. The $200 course has a varietyof times and locations.

The Motorcycle Training Center, initiated by Red Runyon, opened in 1979. It is one of manysuch schools in California governed by the Calif. Motorcycle Safety Program.The driving course is rigorous but educational. It was a challenge for eventhe most experienced riders. There is constant repeated instruction, but thecourse doesn’t allow for personal, extended instruction. If any studentfails to negotiate the specific exercises or driving procedures, or presentsan issue of safety to self or others, they are asked to leave the course.Students that fail to complete the days’ instruction are allowed to repeatthe course.

I’m sure some of you out there are going to rag on me for supporting such arigid set of bike riding concepts. I agree that in the ‘real world’ thereare a lot of unusual circumstances, unusually capable bike riders andexperiences that may contradict this training. I also feel strongly thatpersonal freedom is a primary issue.

The intent of this course is to give you sufficient survival skills to allowyou to ride another day. They admit that the course will not guarantee yoursurvival. Most will admit that they’ll do whatever they have to do tosurvive. But few would take the position that ignorance is a valuedpossession. Experience is a great teacher, but experience can be a painfullesson.

The course driving tasks are regimented and very specific. Some of thetactics relate to: speed braking, accelerating through a turn, gear shifting,swerving to avoid a road hazard, weaving through cones, negotiating 90 degreeturns, looking through turns, anticipating and reacting to traffic, and muchmore.

My challenge was to listen to directions, that and to not be so damn jerky in mybraking or accelerating, or maybe not being such a jerk. “Squeeze,” Waynewould holler at me above the roar of screaming Yamahas, “just squeeze thefront brake, don’t jerk.” Or did he mean- “Šdon’t, Jerk.”

Somehow on my last day of driving, I managed to take in some of theinstruction offered. My braking and accelerating was smoother. I managed tocalm down enough to understand what was being said. Some were actuallyenjoying the day’s riding. A casual camaraderie lightened the tension.The time had come to show what we had. Tim and John finally ran us throughthe testing phase. There was no joking around now. The peso was on theline. I don’t think you could have forced a dime between our collective buttcheeks, we were all that tense. Each maneuver was viewed silently butcritically. Each rider was evaluated on each element of required procedures.

When we finished, we rolled our bikes into the cargo container, handed inour helmets and stood in line silently, as if awaiting our orders for ‘Nam.I passed! But not without a few of points against meŠ.that damn jerkyaccelerating through a curve, and a couple of other riding indiscretions,but I passed. Two guys had perfect scores. For what it’s worth, I think thisprogram is well worth the time and effort. I can’t imagine anyone whowouldn’t benefit. As a matter of fact, I’m trying to get that belligerenthard-ass, Bandit, to take the experienced riders course. We’ll see what 30+years of wild riding does for him.

The experienced rider course is one day of instruction and driving. The costis $99. Another fun/educational biking experience offered by the MotorcycleTraining Center is the Willow Springs “Streets of Willow” driving course.This is not a school but a chance for bike riders to test their mettle. Probikers will be there to swap stories and give advice. Riders must have 3,000to 5,000 miles of riding experience. Ride your own bike and bring extra gas.Lunch is supplied. For information you may call Leslie at (818) 932-0433 orat www.ccriderlosangeles.com

Gates Poly Chain(r) Belts are extremely durable and give long life in aproperly designed drive. However, improper handling of the belt before orduring installation can result in dramatically shortened service life. Thebelt’s tensile cords are designed to carry large loads in tension but notcompression. Compression causes damage to the tensile cords of the belt andcan also lead to adhesion problems. Handling situations that can causecompression in tensile cord include aggressive bending and twisting.Examples of this are:

Crimping The Belt

Crimping of the belt occurs when enough bending pressure is put on thebelt in a small radius so that a permanent “set” is formed in the belt. Thebelt will often take on the outline of a fish head. Crimping damages thetensile cords and will result in premature failure. Do not crimp PolyChain(r) Belts.

Forward Bending The Belt

When handling Poly Chain(r), forward bends (bends that cause the teeth tocome together) should be limited to the following minimum diameter for thegiven belt pitch.

Belt Pitch ————————Diameter (in.)
8mm—————————————3″
11mm (motorcycle applications only)——-4″
14mm————————————–5″

Do not forward bend Poly Chain(r) Belts tighter than the diameters shownabove.

Back Bending The Belt

When handling Poly Chain(r), back bends (bends that spread the teethapart) should be limited to the following minimum diameter for the givenbelt pitch.

Belt Pitch————————- Diameter (in.)
8mm—————————————5″
11mm (motorcycle applications only)—— 8″
14mm————————————-10″

Do not back bend Poly Chain(r) Belts tighter than the diameters shownabove.

Twisting The Belt

Do not twist the belt as shown in the picture. This includes coiling thebelt to make it smaller for packaging.

Belt Installation

Do not use tools to pry the belt onto the application. Sprocket centersshould be adjusted so that the belt can be easily put on by hand.

Back to Belt Drives LTD……..