Bikernet Bonneville Effort 2006–Salt Shaker 1
By Bandit |


Next, we decide to balance the act by installing the swingarm. We dug out all the parts including: Harley-Davidson swingarm bushings/bearings, the swingarm axle, fasteners, swingarm caps, bracket and rubber mounts, dust shields, etc. This gets tricky. You need a press to install the bushings in the swingarm. We also needed JIMS press guides. We had some, but weren’t sure they were correct. We attempted to press in one side and stopped.

When in doubt, take the shit to a shop, or even a dealership. I took the swingarm and all the parts to see Larry Settle at Settle’s Customs in Harbor City, California. Larry’s shop is small, but he’s been around forever and knows what he’s doing. He had the correct JIMS swingarm press guides and we did the job in no-time. Hell, he only charged me $75,000. Cheap.

Here’s where it doesn’t hurt to have a Harley touring manual around. Unfortunately, the kit doesn’t come with a manual, but they could use these articles when we’re done. I’ll try to explain how this swingarm contraption goes together, and we’ll take more shots during final assembly. From the outside you have the two swingarm brackets and four bolts that came in a labeled bag. Most of the fasteners were simple to understand, but these bolts didn’t make sense. Two of them were way too long, so we scrounged around.


The diamond shaped brackets go on the outside with the inner pins up then those weird rubbermounts slip into them with the slots up to meet the pins. There’s two large plastic washer that go against the swingarm bushing, pressed into the swingarm, with the smaller section out. Then the bushing and rubber dust covers fit between the swingarm bearings and the transmission case, and finally a washer that slips into the dust cover on each side.

When you install the shaft start on the right and push it through. There’s a spacer that runs on the left end just before the nut. In the manual it shows that spacer on the inside of the rubbermount. We’ll get to the bottom of that before final assembly.


Next we pulled out the sharp Progressive adjustable shocks and found the bag of fasteners. Progressive also supplies varied fasteners and spacers. Plus included is a precise description of the fasteners and what fits what. Of course we didn’t fit into any stock bike category.

Then we found all the fasteners, spacers and axles for the wheels and went to work installing them. Nothing is tight or torqued as this point.






Some pals showed up and we pulled her off the lift to test the Corbin seating position. One of the guys was a Drag Specialties rep, Gene Koch and Dr. Hamster.

Everybody dug the frontend, brakes and frame. We’re undecided about the rear shock height, but that can be easily adjusted.


Dr. Hamster and Gene signed up to be Bonneville team members and plan to ride to the salt flats with us this year. Next we’ll install the tank and brake calipers, dash and start to work on the position of the foot controls.

We plan to move the rear taillight, add some snazzy light and mount the license plate so it’s solid and cool.

The Corbin seat will be tested for the ride to Sturgis. I don’t think we’ll fuck with it. It’s made to fit the rear fender.

So there you have it. Next we’ll bring you a report on the 45 flattie and more on our chassis assembly. I’ve contacted Berry Wardlaw of Accurate engineering about the 120-inch Panhead engine and asked his advice about the transmission. With the engine and trans in place we’ll order a tough, high performance BDL belt drive system to tie it all together. Now it’s time for a drink.


Bikernet Bonneville Effort 2006–Salt Shaker 1
By Bandit |


Scramble some eggs, make some coffee and sit back. This is the first segment in the 2006 Bikernet Bonneville effort and 10th Anniversary Bikernet Run to the Salt Flats, September 3-7, to the Bub’s International Motorcycle Speed Trials at the Bonneville Salt Flats. Currently we’re building two bikes (what a relief, at one point we thought about building four). This is the main tamale, the first ever Panhead Sportbike based on the Custom Chrome V-Bike kits designed by John Reed.

I’m sure a few readers are going to say, “What the fuck. This ain’t no chopper!” You’re right. One of the blessed things about this industry is the flexibility to build whatever you want, with whatever you want to use. Last year I built a traditional rigid, ’56 Shovelhead (?) and rode it to Sturgis. Most custom bikes built this year are reminiscent of that bike, the long chopper. I love those babies, but as the tires widened and the front ends lengthened, until they weren’t that fun to ride, I had a thought. A few years ago I modified a Buell and rode it to Sturgis, but I hit a deer and didn’t make it. I dug that bike, although I looked like a dork riding it. It handled like a dream, was fast and a blast to ride anywhere. But I needed something larger, a big twin Buell. John Reed knew the answer. Build a big twin sportbike and he did with the blessing of Custom Chrome.

John and I aren’t the only crazed bastards to throw chopper tradition to the wind, to build something that hauls ass, has American class and handles like a rice rocket. Jesse James is building a Sportbike, Gard Hollinger and Roland Sands are already experimenting in those areas. Take a look at the Victory concept bike in the Road Test/New Model area.
There’s a thorn that resides in the sole or soul of every biker’s boot. It’s that unrelenting desire to ride. If you have the disease and you’re riding a cumbersome chopper something will click, and you’ll look for something more agile to ride. Okay, so that’s the bottom line. I wanted something wild to ride that will handle like a dream and I can ride it to Sturgis this year, then to Bonneville. So comes the second aspect to this build.
V-bike From Custom ChromeIt’s simply known as the ‘V’. It is 50% sportbike, 50% V-Twin and 100% passion. The heart of this new bike is a purpose-designed rubber-mounted “featherbed” style frame. The ‘V’ is a feature-laden streetfighter with the muscle and simplicity of a V-Twin powertrain. It’s powered by a RevTech® 110″ engine and RevTech 6-speed overdrive transmission. This amazing creation came from world-renowned motorcycle designer/builder John Reed.
Santee custom featherbed, rubber-mounted frame
• Paioli adjustable inverted forks
• Custom carbon fiber front and rear fenders
• 4 gallon ‘Regency’ one-piece stretched gas tank
• Santee ‘Super Bar’ handlebars
• Chrome smooth-contour handlebar controls
• One-piece color coded wiring harness
• Gel-coat headlight fairing
• 17″ Marchesini forged alloy wheels
Avon ‘Azaro’ Tires: 120/70Rx17″ front and a 170/60Rx17″ rear
• Brembo brake calipers – dual front and single rear
• Brembo 13″ floating brake rotors
• Progressive Suspension adjustable shocks
600675110″ black wrinkle finished engine and black wrinkle 6-speed overdrive transmission$19,995
Industry Quotes
“A truly different kind of bike” (American Rider)
“It is also one of the most well-developed V-twins and has proven to be reliable” (American Rider)“…certainly the basis for a great sport bike” (American Rider)
“…the crossover bike the industry has always wished for” (Cycle News)
Custom Chrome ‘V’ takes top V-Twin speed at Texas Mile topping out at 158 mph

Each year I need a crazy adventure or a new woman. New women can be the best adventures, then there’s trips around the world, 2000 mile road races and of course Bonneville. My codes: No Time To Lose, Never A Dull Moment, and You Only Go Around Once. So let’s take a couple of bikes to Bonneville this year and have some fun with the Greats: Dennis Manning, Wink Eller, Bob George, Dave Campos, etc. I was fortunate to be on the Easyriders team that broke the worlds fastest motorcycle record in 1996 to 321 mph. It still stands.

But this is about fun. It’s our 10th Anniversary and we’re riding to Bonneville and inviting anyone to come along for four days in the salt. This bike is appropriately named Salt Shaker, the first Panhead Sportbike and it’s the CCI kit bike except for a few parts. We’re going to run an Accurate Engineering 120-inch Panhead motor, a Baker Transmission and a BDL belt primary. The rest is all CCI and John Reed. I will list all the kit components here somewhere. We plan to give the bike our own style with a new headlight to add an old school touch, different bars, controls and we will make pipes to go along with the Panhead motif. Of course we’re looking for another fairing to enhance the run on the salt.
Our second effort will be a 45 cubic inch 1940 flathead which we’re calling the Bonne Belle. Lee Clemens at Departure Bike works is hopping up the engine and trans. US choppers currently has the frame for straightening, gusseting, seat mounting and mounting up a 39mm Sportster front end. Then we’re going to build the roller in preparation of the engine’s return from Richmond, Virginia.

It’s almost 6 p.m. and Happy Hour at the Bikernet headquarters. I haven’t carved through my vast list of daily accomplishment, and I’m thinking about a Jack on the Rocks. So let’s ramble through the build so far. One of the terrific aspects of this project are the components. This is a dream build in so many respects. Everything so far is top of the line. The wheels are forged Marchesini Italian acing wheels, with Avon Venom tires that are light as a feather. The front end is state of the art front suspension and even the trees are carved perfectly for lightness and added strength. You should see the webbing under the bottom tree.
The absolute first thing we did was to take the Marchesini, Italian, wheels to be balanced with the Avon Tires. Or plan was to put the bike together, fabricate anything necessary then tear it apart for finish work.

The Santee built CCI V-frame is extra strong. The swingarm is an inch longer and the webbing for high speeds is built into the design. It’s massive. The Brembo brake calipers and rotors are top notch.

First we cut all the boxes apart and sorted some of the items. We pulled the frame components, the shocks, brakes wheels, rotors, pegs, fasteners and laid them on the lift. We ditched as much cardboard, foam peanuts and plastic bags as possible and went to work. CCI did a helluva job of organizing the fasteners and labeling bags. We pulled the groups we planned to use immediately and kept the rest carefully locked away.


If you plan to build one of these hot rods or any kit bike, order some special tools from JIMS first. They’ll save you tremendous time, effort and they’ll handle precisions jobs correctly. I would suggest a neck bearing race tool, the tools for installing swingarm bushings and clutch and front pulley tools. You might order a JIMS catalog, first.


We started with the neck bearing races. I used a brass hammer from JIMS and a massive socket as a guide to get the race started. Make sure to tap around the race carefully until the race is completely seated. I needed the socket as a guide, because as the race passed the neck lip. Then I seriously recommend that you install the front end, ride it for a few miles and recheck the bearing play. If the races seat anymore the front end will loosen–dangerous.

Then we slipped the bottom tree and Timken bearing into place with the smaller dust cover. Next, we added the Timken bearing to the top and the larger dust cover, then the two pinch nuts slipped onto the steering stem. Well made, quality parts have that feel to them, like running your finger along slick glass. They just fit cleaner, no lumps, bumbs, burrs or scratches.

Then we slipped the inverted tubes into place. What a nice clean fit. They came with metric Allens, plus Custom Chrome supplied us with another sent of bright plated fasteners. These might be the only metric fasteners on the bike, including the Brembo brake and Marchesini wheel fasteners.

We slipped a couple of fork stop bolts into place to prevent part damage, added the billet riser and the Custom Chrome handlebars. That gave us some control.



BIKERNET BONNEVILLE 2006 FILES
By Bandit |


Here’s our secret Bonneville 2006 file. It‘s going to rapidly fill up with Bonneville racing info, notes, suggestions from experts, performance tips and lies. Check it out from time to time. It’s already interesting.–Bandit

TIPS FROM AL UNSER’S CREW
Back in the late 70's and early 80's I had the occasion to do work on Al Unser Jr's sprint car. During this time I met his dad Al Sr right after he won Indy. Since I was racing funny cars we got into a conversation about what helps make cars faster. He told me that on an Indy car, every part of the body and chassis is coated with Armoral. You know the stuff you put on your dash to brighten up the look.
It seems that the Armoral coating is more slippery to the air and will improve the speed of an Indy car by about 2 mph. Might be useful to you if you coated your leathers and the bike before a run on the salt.
–Dave Benjamin 617FC


BIKERNET BONNEVILLE TEAM SECRET FILES
Bonneville is the Holy Grail for many racers. It’s a far reaching, flat, moon scape of 65 square miles of salt. It’s a place for speed, real speed, top, all-out speed. We have three teams going so far, Chop and Grind from 13 Palms, California, Custom Performance from Phoenix and the Headquarters crew, or the 5-Ball Racing Team with Custom Chrome, Accurate Engineering, Baker Transmission and Departure Bike Works. We will share info, tips, connections, parts, you name it. Below is a performance exhaust lesson from Kenny Samson, the founder and head cleaning lady, at Samson Exhaust. Check it out:
The best thing to do is to start at the port diameter for flange fitment ofthe particular head. It is usually 1 3/4″ on most Harleys but the 45 may be1 5/8″. The rule of thumb as starters is to make each step about 8 inches long.The steps should be no more than 1/4″ increases but for fine tuning 1/8″increases would be better. The overall length is also important as well asthe step lengths.
I think you know Wink Eller, he ran our pipes on his RedOctober bike that were straight 1 3/4″ cut to the best performing length. Itdoes get involved and one set of pipes will not get you what you want. It'sexperimentations on section lengths, diameters, and overall length thatmatters.
Keep in mind that torque and horsepower are two different thingsand to get the best HP you need free flowing pipes but to get best torqueyou have to figure velocity into the equation.
My best advice is to buildyour engine the best performer you can with compression and cam lift,duration, timing, head flow, combustion squish and swirl, and blue printedto make sure the old cases are as square as possible.
Most Panheads tend towarp on the barrels base areas of the cases toward the cam side as well asthe lifter block surfaces. Don't forget to square the barrel bases to thebore as well. You don't want the piston going up and down cocked in thebarrel. This is a very common occurrence I think most people don't have aclue about it, unless they have done some of this stuff before. I have squaredmy engines in the past and kicked ass on other people with the same cam,bore, stroke, compression, etc and it was just fun to know what I did andnot tell.
By the way, engine case distortion is almost a definite issue.It's easily fixed by a skilled machinist who knows not to fuck it up.
Enoughranting…… geez I haven't had to think this much in a long time and yougot my gray matter in a mush.
PS reversion cones only inhibit high flow and are mostly for low to mid range power by increasing velocity.


BIKERNET BONNEVILLE EFFORT RESEARCH BEGINS
Seeing as how you plan to go 200 MPH, and seeing as how I am probably the only guy at Bikernet who rides fast bikes on a regualr basis, I thought I'd better chime in with some ideas for you mate.
Describe or send me a pic of what your speed demon is going to look like when you race it.Is it going to have one of those fully enclosed canopies, ala the Worlds Fastest Indian and the original Easyriders type salt flats bike or is it going to be just a normalish looking two wheeled machine?I am guessing the latter.
I am also guessing your going to have some kind of windshield or fairing at the front and sides of the bike?Ideas are changing in the sports bike world about weather an angular, sharp shield is more effective than a smooth curved shield.
I think sharp and angular is ok if there is no strong side wind. Flat panels get wind blasted.
Now you can save weight by not having any brakes…I kid you not.You can also save weight by having very small ones and a smaller disc than most on- road bikes use, like a lighter disc from a trailbike.Aluminium handlebars. Aluminium as much as you can actually!
I am going to take a look at some stuff I have from the UK 200 MPH club, I recall they had some useful info, just can't remember it all.
Assuming you are riding a bike and not lying down inside a rocket canopy…what's your thought on the gear your going to wear?Some of the new full face helmets, like Nitro, have wind deflection scallops on the back, great idea.When you're doing real fast speed on a bike you need to cellotape (sticky tape) the visor shut. Have someone do it just before you take off. People say with modern visors you don't have to… At 200 MPH I would not be taking any chances it might flip open myself.Make sure the helmet is a real tight fit also.
If it's very sunny and the glare is a problem, apart from a tinted visor; grab a roll of black electrical tape, the half inch wide vinyl stuff. Lay one strip across the top edge of the visor. Then one below just overlapping the first piece a little. Keeps the sun out of your eyes.
Race skins, leathers; tight form fitting ones with as much body armour as you can stand. Or…get a body armour zip up jacket outfit, connected by mesh, and put your riding jacket over the top. Some street racers now put the armour mesh over the top of their jackets to save the leather, the armour mesh outfit takes the brunt of any impact.Most mesh armour now comes with a good back protector also.
Gloves…personal choice as to what you want of course, but make sure they come well over cuffs of jacket to stop any wind going down sleeves of jacket, it's all wind resistance you don't need. Collar needs to be round and a good fit, to stop wind blasting down the neck area. Can be padded out by a folded bandana.
Leather pants tucked into smooth leather race boots, wrap some of that silver plastic tape, the two inch wide stuff, around top of boot…stops wind deflecting around top of boot. Like a seal. If pants are a bit loose around the knee area, wrap more silver tape above and below knee after you get on bike.The end of all the tape needs to facing away from the direction you are travelling in. So the wind actually presses the tape tighter!
If you're wearing a two piece jacket and pants outfit, more tape wrapped around waist to join suit together and not let any wind get up under jacket. It all slows you down.Some guys even polish their jackets before they do speed runs!
I am sure there is tons of stuff I have not thought of.Here is something new from the UK MC news desk…they say that studies have proven that synthectic oil DOES NOT cause any clutch slippage whatsoever, that it is a myth.They say if your clutch starts to slip after you use syn oil, clutch was probably on the way out and the better oil simply showed the problem up because the oil is so much “slipperier” I am still thinking on that suggestion.
— Jaq.


Jesse Meets Huey and Cleveland Motorcycle
By Bandit |
Meet, if you will, Cleveland’s“Jesse The Kid”. I was firstintroduced to him during his day of revolting from his Ma. This was a big mistake, as
As the bond grew between Huey,Jeffery, and Jesse and the outstanding skills at PerformanceEngineering/Cleveland Motorcycle Company started paying off for Jesse. The more interest he showed the morethey taught him. Huey’s brilliancewith motors was passed along. The knowledge gained through trial and errorrelated to welding, grinding, assembly, making parts started to evolve in thisbright young man, who became fulltime instead of working just after school.
Jesse’s life around the machineshop/custom motorcycle shop indeed matured him from a kid in and out of thetrouble bag into one extremely talented young man.
He is just that. Kudos to Huey, Jeffery and the crew,who I have close ties with since 1980, for not only passing your wisdom ontoJesse, but also allowing him to discover and develop the gift he has.
Study what he has accomplished here. Huey and Jeffery allowed him to go intotheir respective junk piles from 40 years of building motorcycles and cars.Neither have ever thrown away any item in their lives. So, from two longtime parts collectorsthe young guy assembled what you see, and yes, it is as good a one-off-a-kindpiece as we’ve seen in awhile….in addition, she starts first kick and runs likea raped ape.
The rear wheel weld rim with aMickey Thompson front tire off an abandon car project from the ’80s .
The carb is a 1970s Mikuni Solexthat was used on a Road Rally Datsun. There are no rebuilt parts so new assembly was handled very carefullyand required some hand made parts.
Terry Huntington designed therocker boxes in the late ’70s…Jesse had to do some talking to get our junk guysto come off of these. TheSpringer front end sat in the corner of the shop for 6 years,
so…well, why not. Huey didn’t realize it was missing ‘tilthe bike went to paint.
The front wheel is an early twincam hub laced to a Sportster rim. The brakes are Performance Machine projectbrakes Jesse stole from another machine in the shop. The tranny is a Harley-Davidson Roto-lid, kick only with a6T BMX pedal pulled from Greg’s basement. The shifter is an original Hurst 4-speed shifter donated from theCorvette shop around the corner.
The tank started life as a SuperGlide chopped and channeled. Otherinteresting one-off stuff included the ignition and cam cover. Jesse incorporated them together tocreate the “Mock-neto” a 4-cylinder farm tractor magneto all engineered to workby Jesse.
More one off machined parts ofbillet by Jesse is the forward controls. The belt drive is a mechanical oddity that started out as a worn outKarata set up. Jesse re-machinedthe clutch hub in order to use Twin Cam plates with a diaphragm clutchspring. Another good move relatedto putting the stop on your pants catching in the belt was the machining of thefront pulley cover. This beganlife as a 30 lb block of billet aluminum. With a spare piece of 30 lb billetlaying on the floor and no waste attitude the taillight became a whip up ofsorts and is available on the shop web site Clevelandmotorcycle.com.
Jesse told me “This motorcyclecould not have been made possible without the insight of all those ol’ Timersat Cleveland Motorcycle/Performance Engineering”. I had to laugh out loud at that comment, “Oh really,Jesse.”
The shit they will give thisyoung man when this comes out will rival proverbial Bikers farting around thecampfire night. It will begood-natured in our Biker way, but basically he robbed them of 40 years of junkand 80 years of dues. However,what he did with that junk resulted in the ol’ timers singing him praise,mostly so he can’t hear them. Theygenuinely believe in this young man and maybe won’t admit it, but there is onebig bunch of pride passed along here.
By the way, the power plant is anoutstanding 80-cubic inch Shovelhead with a 10:5:1 Wiseco pistons, S & Slowers dual plugged, ported heads with a Sifton cam.
This almost rivals the stuff HueySchwebs used to build through the ’80s. I photographed motorcycles Huey’s created with motors in them no oneelse on the planet could build. Huey had motors with Panhead, Flathead, Knucklehead and Shovelhead partsmixed and twisted that would out run new stuff on the street. Great to see this wonderful ingenuityis back.
Why not take a machine like thisone and place the “Angel of the Dawn” (her nickname) Amanda, on and aroundit. Fun, gorgeous, great tits
just begins to describeAmanda. Born and reared inKentucky, Debby found her on a ride we were doing through the Appalachian Hillson the
scooters. Deb has an eye for Biker Babes as I’msure you will agree. It neverseems to bother any of us thatAmanda also has great carburetors, fabrication of the hips, lips and ass thatrival any hard belly on the planet. She does not chew tobacco, has all her teeth and hair and scored a “10”on every damn scale throughout the biker world.
Ride hard, damn it!
–Balls
This feature was originally published in Biker Magazine
Saddleman Custom Service and King Installation
By Bandit |
EDITOR’S NOTE: We discovered a special service in the Saddlemen line-up: custom seats. They not only build seats around your design or your seat pan, but they will modify an existing Saddlemen seat to fit any rider. Below is a mass of info from Saddleman, then a report from a 5’6″ tall Bikernet Correspondent, in Colorado Springs, who recently installed a modified Saddlemen seat to his late-model King. Enjoy:
Custom seat builds and modifications have been Saddlemen specialties since the founding of our company.
Our technicians have years of experience in seat design, customization and refurbishing, and whether in an all-new seat made from scratch, or providing subtle tailoring, recovering or reshaping of an existing stock seat, Saddlemen professionals have helped thousands of riders improve the comfort, utility and appearance of their machines’ seats.
Saddlemen’s proven design methods and superior materials and features work together to enhance the riding experience. We also have access to a excellent range of premium-grade cover materials, both synthetic and natural, to suit the widest range of tastes and specifications. Our foam formula offers the best combination of support, long life and comfort on the market.
One of our constant sources of work is providing seat refurbishing and modification services. Whether replacing the cover on a favorite seat, installing our famous Saddlegel inserts for added support and comfort, reshaping a stock saddle for better ergonomics, or upgrading seat performance and durability with our top-of-the-line foam, Saddlemen has years of experience, know-how and workmanship ready to help.
Anyone interested in having an existing seat re-covered, or its foam upgraded, reshaped or otherwised modified, should contact our sales and technical staff, here, in our California offices, either by email at sales@saddlemen.com, or by telephone (Pacific Time Zone) at (800) 397-7709, during normal business hours. One of our technicians can then go over the options available to acheive each owner’s desired solution, along with cost and turnaround estimates.
We pride ourselves on our experience and ability to custom fit our seats (especially our touring saddles) for the needs of the widest variety of riders. Height, weight, build, riding style and habits can all influence the effectiveness and comfort of a seat. Our sales staff and craftsmen know the right questions to ask, and the answers for providing the best solutions for each individual.
Our standard American-made production run seats are hand-built and designed for comfort and optimal seating position, with years experience behind them, and Saddlemen’s innovative combination of proven materials. Like even the best made piece of clothing, tailoring sometimes is needed to suit the individual “wearer,” or can make a “good” seating setup just about perfect.
Adjustments can be made to improve many aspects of the riding experience. The forward area of a seat can be narrowed to help provide better leg reach to the ground when stopped. Lumbar supports can be adjusted to improve the rider’s seating position, front-to-rear. The shape of the seating surface can be customized to relieve sources of discomfort. Over many years, our staff has found solutions for all kinds of individual issues.
Potential buyers with concerns about comfort, seating position and styling can contact our knowledgible sales staff at our California offices and factory. A brief conversation can answer many questions, and provide a basis for creating a seat for the best ride possible. We can also discuss options for cover materials, stitching and ornamentation.
For a specific consultation, and a quote, our experienced Sales Department representatives can be reached during normal Pacific time zone business hours at (800) 397-7709.
One of our most popular types of customization we offer is the installation of SaddleGel™ padding into seats. Gel installs offer the signature benefit of Saddlemen seats for those who wish or need to keep their original seat. See the gel story below.
BIKERNET CORRESPONDENT REPORT
The Renegade Deluxe seat, with pillion pad, you sent for my ’07 FLHR was waiting on my doorstep when I got home from work Friday afternoon. Installation is pretty straightforward, since the Sundowner mounts identical to the factory seat and pillion.
Did I say straightforward? Not if you accidentally knock the studs and their retainer bracket out of the rear fender as I did while trying to push the seat forward and align the rear tabs over the studs. Yep, sometimes I can fuck up a wet dream.
Anyhow, rather than dropping the rear wheel to reinstall the bracket and studs, I was able to fish the studs (with a washer) from underneath the fender with a magnet and secure them to the fender with their plastic grommets and a pair of locknuts. I tossed the dirt-encrusted bracket into my box of miscellaneous spare parts. Back to the install.
The retaining tongue on the front of the Sundowner is a bit shorter and at a shallower angle compared to the factory seat, which made aligning the rear tabs with the studs problematic. So I gently and incrementally bent the tongue to a steeper angle until I got the seat, tabs, and studs properly aligned. I wanted to be careful here, because the tongue is riveted to the seat pan and I didn’t want to rip them out (See note above about fucking up a wet dream). Installing the pillion was a simple matter of sliding its slotted tabs onto the studs and securing its rear to the fender with the OEM screw.
As you told me, this seat moves the rider forward a bit, which is fine for me, since I’m a massive 5’7″, 160 lb, with a 31″ inseam. The Sundowner is a comfortable seat and good-looking, too. Although I haven’t put a lot of miles on this seat yet, my ass says it’s got the factory seat and the Mustang solo seat beat by a long shot, and I’d put it on a par with the Corbin solo.
—Bruce
THE SADDLEMEN GEL STORY–SADDLEGEL
Why your motorcycle seat needs SaddleGel!
Without question SaddleGel is the most important breakthrough in motorcycle seating technology in decades. This amazing product will increase the amount of time you spend on your motorcycle, creating the comfort necessary to ride all day. Every type of riding is more enjoyable, from touring to dual sport, canyon carving to street cruising.
When it comes to motorcycle seat comfort technology, nothing compares to a Saddlemen seat with SaddleGel. The proprietary SaddleGel technology was gleaned from the medical industry with specific origins in wheelchair pads and hospital beds. The gel was used (and still is) to prevent bedsores for those confined to beds for long periods of time and for people in wheelchairs—some for their whole lives. Know anyone who rides as much as a person confined to a wheelchair?
In the early ‘90s, the experienced riders at Saddlemen figured out a way to incorporate all the benefits of gel into a motorcycle seat and quickly learned it was far more comfortable than standard seats for a variety of reasons. For one, SaddleGel isolates engine and road vibration, a common cause of rider fatigue. Saddlegel is a molded solid with fluid-like properties that will not slide to one side or move around in your seat like water in a plastic bag; instead the proprietary design eliminates pressure points at the hip bones and tail bone by evenly distributing your weight across the surface of the seat. Otherwise, pressure points or “hot spots” can hinder blood flow, causing pain and discomfort. Normal circulation is never lost on a seat with SaddleGel, and it keeps your rear end comfortable on a long ride, and ready to respond quickly as road conditions change.
Saddlemen SaddleGel is extremely advantageous, but we were able to maximize the benefits of it by developing a seating comfort system around it. Our integrated seat designs include a selection of materials that work together to make our seats as comfortable as possible, while still giving your bike show-quality style. Read more about Saddlemen’s Comfort System Technology (CST) here.
GEL SEAT CONSTRUCTION
* • Particularly good in low profile seats
* • Superior to foam alone
* • Floats rider on seat
* • Eliminates road shock and vibration
* • Dissipates weight evenly
* • No hot spots
* • Maximizes time in saddle
* • Exclusive composite construction
Each individual component works together as a system.
2011 Victory Motorcycles Overview
By Bandit |

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To show off its new line to the print and internet press, Victory had chosen a killer venue: Gateway Canyons Resort and Auto Museum, http://www.GatewayCanyons.com/ in Colorado. Yours truly and a gaggle of moto journalists had a chance to throw a leg over just about every model in the Victory line, taking them through miles of semi-deserted and breathtaking canyon roads that surround the area.
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A number of us also took advantage of Victory’s offer to take touring bikes on a long-range adventure. The exciting and eventful two-day trek would have us travel around 800 miles through Colorado and Wyoming, ending up in Sturgis, SD for the Rally. I took this opportunity to revisit the Victory Cross Country, a model we particularly liked last year, and see how it may have improved since then. We will publish the road test very soon on Bikernet, so stay tuned.

More Power, More Grunt!


A Smoother, Quieter Driveline

Another notable addition to this list of driveline improvements is the neutral assist that’s been added to the mainshaft design. It prevents missed neutrals when stopped, and eliminates the degradation of neutral finding as the clutch wears and the oil gets close to needing a change. Transmission gear durability was also on Victory’s mind as the gearboxes are now covered by a 100,000-mile warranty. And maintenance intervals have been extended from 3,000 miles to 5,000 miles, which should come as a relief for people who put miles on their Victory.
Put Yer Junk In Da TrunkA quick-release trunk is now available for both the Cross Roads and Cross Country. The trunk may look streamlined but it has a gargantuan capacity, allowing for storage of two full-face helmets. The trunk lid seals securely, is lockable and provides the bike with a high-mounted taillight. It’s a great addition to these bikes and takes them up one notch into the realm of long-range touring machines.
Chassis Updates
The Hammer and Hammer S come with a separate analog tachometer, and all Kingpins have pull-back driver floorboard mounts for improved riding comfort.
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The Cross Roads CORE Custom Program
Traditionally, the only way a rider got a customized bike from a manufacturer is through a custom order program. Victory is taking this idea further by letting a rider customize a new bike, see how the selected components look on the bike, and take it home right away! With the Victory Cross Roads CORE Custom Program, you select the bike color, saddlebag style and highway bar style, and add a windshield, if desired. There are 48 different possible combinations, and a display at Victory Dealerships will allow riders to see how their selections look – on an actual motorcycle in the showroom!

ABS Standard On Victory Vision



STURGIS 2010 – THE FINAL WRAP
By Bandit |

Sturgis Police Chief Jim Bush was coy about how many cops (euphemistically referred to as ‘public safety officers’) he has in town for the rally but he did admit to four cops on each block. Offence-wise the rally was fairly tame which probably ties in with the demographic of the majority of today’s Harley-Davidson riders.
Paul Senior proved as big a drawcard as ever, with hundreds lining up for autographs and photo opportunities.






Humble’s Sturgis 2010
By Bandit |
Sturgis 2010
As the spring months turn into summer, my road trip itch begins to burn like a bad case of chiggers. For 10 months, I am ok riding back and forth to work, taking the occasional blast through the National Forest with my son, or screaming around the city with my club brothers; but once a year, I get the urge to put 4000 miles on my bike and sleep under the stars for at least a week. 5 years ago I took my first trip to the Mecca, and the time was approaching for another round. I relish in the challenge and the mental toughness it takes to endure the long rides, weather, breakdowns, and such are what I enjoy about the trips. Thankfully my family doesn’t give me too hard a time about it and luckily, I have a few brothers who feel the same. This year’s destination was going to be the 70th rendition of the greatest rally in the land, Sturgis!
Mike is my favorite riding partner to date and my go-to-guy when I need an accomplice in debauchery. He’s an East Texas 36-year-old with a 75-year-old soul. The sonovabitch works his ass off 6 to 7 days a week all over the world setting up process systems electronics and chillers. He leads by example and takes care of his family, makes his children read the Bible every day even when he’s out of town, and still refers to evening meals as “supper”. His favorite ride is a 1975 Shovel resting in a rigid frame, and he relishes the fact that he has to carry wrenches everywhere he goes. He’s a tinkering fool who’d give you the shirt off of his back if ya needed it, but I warn you, don’t ever cross him. His addiction to the road is legendary, as he once left for a loaf of bread and didn’t return for three days. When he did return, it took a week to sober him up from the Jim Beam showers he must’ve indulged in while chasing gypsies across the plains of Texas and Oklahoma. The guy’s a Wildman. His ride of choice this year would be an FXR framed Twin Cam with 16 inch Gimphanger handlebars and a set of slammed shocks in the rear. This bike was a fire breathing monster pushing 117 rwhp while reminding the world he was on the road by utilizing a custom racing exhaust.
Bryan, well he’s cut from a different cloth. He’s a physical therapist that listens to the hardest rock and roll made yet doesn’t like to get “dirty”. He has to be the cleanest man I’ve ever met in my life and frankly, he freaks me out a little. I met him through our martial arts school and he’s a helluva training partner, but he is as regimented as they come. I’ll bet he can tell you the amount of calories he eats in a day as well as the oz. of piss he relieves. He’s a funny cartoon character, but he’s still my brother and I always end up with a story when he comes along. He would once again be riding his Superglide, with a windshield, but now sporting forward controls and mini-apes. I was thankful to see his tents slept three in case we were ever stranded, but luckily never had to ruin his night.
We were talking of making the trip this year with Mike’s step dad, Woody. Woody’s been to Sturgis every year since 2000 and has racked up more miles on his bikes than any man I have personally known. A Goldwing convert in 2000, he is in love with the atmosphere of the “Harley rallies”, and has been known to ride to Maine from Texas to get a lobster dinner. A member of The U.S. Army’s Screaming Eagles during Vietnam, he always buys CVO Screaming Eagle bikes. He will tell you himself he’s the #1 asshole, but I think that’s why I like him. You never have to worry about getting things sugarcoated when Woody’s around. If your being a puss, he’ll gladly tell you to pull up your panties or ask if you squat when you pee.
Oh yeah, back to the trip. Mike and I have been to the Mecca in ’05, ’06, and ’08. Bryan went in ’08, and was so impressed with the whole trip, that he felt he wanted to do it again. Bryan hated the trip last time while we were on it, even leaving Mike and me sleeping on the side of the road in the panhandle. He isn’t much for group riding, but time has a way of making you forget what you want and remember details in your own way, so he felt he was ready for another trip. Truth is, he left us again, but I’ll get to that at a later point.
The days of phone calls are lost in my world, as everything has become texting, facebooking, or twitter. While it seems somewhat nerdy that we have lost human contact in a way, it sure is a convenient way to let your wife know you’ll be late for dinner without having to worry about her hearing everyone in the bar. I eventually texted Mike and Bryan asking if they are ready for the adventure again. Usually their responses can take up to 2 hours to get back to me, but these came back to back almost 2 minutes after my inquiry.
“When do we leave?” from Mike.
“92 days till Sturgis.” from Bryan.
I guess they’re in. I tell Mike to let Woody know we wanna make a run and get back to me with the details. As is usually the case, days turn to weeks and all the things life throws at you before a road trip seem hell-bent to ruin the chance for anything, much less a road trip. Finally we receive word from Woody in mid July about a route, departure date, and his new riding partner. Three weeks before the trip, I find out he’s taking his son, Dave, who none of us had ever met before. So, our travel party of 3 had now grown to 5. As many of you know, the more people on a road trip, usually equals more problems due to attitudes, agendas, and personalities…especially when you are meeting for the first time on a road trip. I just shook my head and hoped for the best.
I was riding Ole Bessie, my 2008 Night Rod Special, and was a little concerned with two things: 1) How was I going to pack my stuff, and 2) How would I last riding 500 mile days on a V-Rod? The longest trip I had taken was 100 miles, and I was less than comfortable. Sturgis is 1450 miles one way, and we were planning a scenic route, so I was a little curious as to how my body would hold up.
The months turned to weeks, finally into days. My patience level at home was at an all-time low, and I needed a road trip! I was ready. Mike calls three days before the trip telling me Woody’s also bringing his daughter along. WTF?!! Are you kidding me? Now we have another passenger and personality in the mix AND she’s a woman. Holy shit this was turning into a headache. I threw my hands in the air and said, “F#^k it!” To add to the headache, Bryan was talking about having to be in Sturgis by Tuesday, because he had to leave Friday or Saturday. Mike wanted to ride out to Moab, Utah. Woody was planning a ride to the North rim of the Grand Canyon…the drama never ends. So now the destination wasn’t clear, the return date was up in the air, and I was just ready to ride.
My V-Rod is a terror on the streets and especially aggressive when I ride with my club, Vindicta M/C. There aren’t too many squadrons of bikes that make a bigger impression like 15 V-Rods flying down the freeway in tight formation. An impressive silhouette, ya know what I mean? But, it is a bar hopping beast that flies well on trips 100 miles or less. I have never been very comfortable for long periods of time, so I had to figure out how to make this bike more endurable. Also, I don’t have saddlebags, so I also had to figure out how I would pack everything. I tried to use my Army duffel bag strapped to the rear seat, but then I couldn’t get my seat up to access the gas tank, so that was out. I considered a backpack, but then had visions of corn sized pustules growing under my arms from the 4000 miles of rubbing and sweat…that was out. I finally remembered my Bikernet day roll packs I had for mine and my wife’s bikes. Looking at the three loop holes I had on the backs, I could attach them to the frame of my bike like saddlebags and they wouldn’t even be near the rear wheel. Could it work? I didn’t know, but only one way to find out. Using zip-ties and bungees, I attached the “saddlebags” and they worked perfect. I was able to attach 3 pairs of pants and one pair of shorts in one bag, and stuffed the other with t-shirts, socks, undies, and amphetamines…I mean vitamins.
Looking back, I wish I had room for a cooler so I coulda carried Jägermeister, Redbull, and beer. I attached the sleeping bag up front as a windbreaker and then tied my backpack to the back where I carried camera, Ziploc bags, and my toiletries. You can tell I have a newer Harley because I packed a set of tools in each of the day rolls, tool pouches, but never needed anything more than an Allen wrench. Like I said, the V-Rod is the future.
We all met on Friday night, August 6th, at a bar-b-que place in spring. We figured we’d head out after a good meal and gas as we planned on driving most of the night. Mike and I each took a handful of aminos, creatine, and mini-thins before downing a Monster. We wanted to be sure not to fall asleep as we knew we would push the pace and distance. While waiting for the rest of the gang to itemize their q-tips, tampons and birth control, Mike and I enjoyed few puffs off a sendoff cigar, although mine had been re-stuffed with the good material. While its not weed, it gives the same effects, it’s not illegal, and you don’t piss hot. Riding with these fools, I needed something to calm me down as I have a reputation as a spaz sometimes.
It had been two freaking years since our last road trip, we were ecstatic to be on the road again. Please don’t misunderstand, we love our families and have really good jobs, so we are not complaining about our lives, but we enjoy the road for the freedom of it, no pressure of “life”. Just you, the bike and the road. Ride till your ass is swollen like a baboon from National Geographic or until the money runs out, either way, it’s all good. At the end of the trip, we always feel better, rejuvenated to take on the world. We realize that before too long life will return to normal and as George the Painter said in a recent issue of THE HORSE, we’ll be dealing with a “handfuls of suck”.
Woody and Dave are ex-ricer riders who have converted. Most ricers I have noticed take up a whole lane when they ride and really could give a fat rat ankle about staggered formation. Mike, Bryan, and myself have always ridden in a staggered tier which helps in visibility to drivers around you as well as mobility during emergencies. Also I believe it is courteous to the other riders around you when you ride AS A UNIT. Have you ever seen a pack of 1%er flying down the road? They are riding fast and tight in a military style formation that evokes power, style, and plus it’s straight up bad ass! We let Dave and Woody take the lead while we rode in the back in our 3 man formation. Mike turned to me and asked,”Hey, you gonna wear a lid?’
“Nah, it’s over 80 degrees and we’re still in Texas. I wanna feel tha air on my dome this year.” I strapped my beanie helmet to the rear and off we went. 1 hour into the ride the sky opened up and we were driving 80 miles an hour into a real terdfloater. No bandana, no windshield, no helmet, and my face and head were being plastered by giant drops of Texas rain. After a few minutes I was sure I was bleeding and my riding partners weren’t even slowing down. Two overpasses later we finally slow to realize Bryan had dropped back. Later he realized he lost his phone in the whole shuffle, so we had a constant hunt for Verizon stores on the rest of the trip. That, was strike one for him.
We waited the storm out at a gas station and started back on the road about twenty minutes later. Woody prophesied that the rain should be done as the skies looked clear to him, so we all took off without donning any gear. Needless to say, it rained off and on the rest of the night. Hey Woody, channel 13 is looking for a new weatherman, I think you may be qualified.
About 2:30 in the morning I could see Jen’s head bobbing with exhaustion, and knew we would be stopping soon. Sure enough, we pulled into a rest stop about 60 miles from Wichita Falls and took shelter on the ground. Woody, Dave, and Jen went to one side of a shelter while Bryan, Mike, and myslef went to another. Woody made it very clear that he didn’t want us animals sleeping anywhere close to his daughter. We set up camp and laid our heads down to sleep. Just as I was dozing off I hear “Psst, hey, you awake?” Mike was sitting on the hill shivering. He has to have icewater running in his veins because he is always so cold.
“No, not yet, what’s up?”
“Will you hold my feet?” I lifted my head and looked at his silly ass sitting there pushing his feet towards me. He looked like a giant silkworm trying to scoot closer to me. I’m not sure if he would have actually let me hold his ugly ass feet, but the thought made me start laughing instantly.
“HELL NO!” I couldn’t help but bust out laughing at his retarded ass. Just as we’re falling asleep and had a good laugh, Bryan chimes in half under his breath, “You guys are weird.” Just the end of another day on the road, buddy.
Saturday morning we wake up and plan to ride through New Mexico to Taos, maybe make it to Monument Valley and hopefully into Utah. Halfway through the day we realize we weren’t going to make it that far due to the rain and more dangerously, the wind. When we first started out we were in the desert and I saw the largest diamond back rattler of my life sunning on the side of the highway. Holy crap! I realized at that point that we weren’t near my hometown anymore. If you get bit out here or crash, I don’t think 911 will help you. Like Jesse James said in Motorcycle Mania 3, “You just lay there and die.”
In Santa Rosa we had to pull over due to an incredible rain and windstorm. We did almost 750 miles in the first 24 hours, so we decided to get a hotel and call it a night. 7:30 pm, Woody, Dave, and Jenny were in the hot tub while Mike, Bryan, and myself were all looking for a local bar. The town had 1. It was a pizza joint with a bar in the back…a total dive but I loved it. After knocking back a few and discussing the next day’s trip, we called it a night.
The next day was filled with drag racing through the desert to Las Vegas, NM. We were splitting lanes and taking names trying to decide who would get there first. Mostly the races were between Mike and myself as Bryan rides a stock 88. Dave and Woody weren’t into racing partly because Dave’s riding a CVO 2003 Road King, and Woody’s on a 2010 CVO Ultra with the nasty big 110 incher. While he never raced, he did open her up once getting her just past 110 mph, and it sounded like an explosion when he accellerated. Strong bikes.
We passed through Santa Fe National Forest and Carson National Forest into Colorado. What a beautiful ride and wonderful towns. The scenery was amazing and the climate was indescribable…atleast for me. I would love to move there. Utterly amazing. Unfortuantely, the rain was causing us to ride at a really measured pace. We eventually made it to Durango. The towns between New Mexico to Pagosa Springs, Colorado, and finally into Durango are nothing short of spectacular. We eventually checked into a hotel and dragged our sorry, tired, wet to the bone bodies to a restaraunt before crashing for the night. Once again, we may have staid in a hotel, but we still had 350 miles to ride the next day through the mountains to get to Denver. We were determined to ride “the million dollar highway” 550 through the forests and mountains.
Anyone who had ridden with me knows I like to blast from time to time, even before I had a fast bike. It’s even worse now that my bike does 140 mph and is as stable as most bikes are at 60 mph. Somewhere in Colorado, I nodded at Mike and hammered down like a maniac. Crossing double yellow lines and taking the edge of curves driving into the blind side of turns, you might say I was driving recklessly. Well, I was, so eat shit, I was having fun. After a twenty car pass, I ended up just gripping and ripping, hearing the pegs scrape in turns, and pushing the bike like I never had. This bike is made for the road! Before I knew it, there was no one within eyesight. I even pulled over and took some pics. Twenty minutes later and after I snuck off into the forest to see a man about a horse, here they come chug-a-lugging past. Woody just waved and Mike was smiling as they rode by. I gotta give Woody credit, 62 years old, riding that big nasty bagger with a passenger, I’ll bet he was whipped. He never complained once, the guy’s ass must be made outta wood.
We eventually rested West of Denver for a gas stop and decided to stay just North of the city for the night. Driving through downtown Denver, we even scorched a trail past Mile High stadium. That’s one of the most amazing things about a road trip for me. I get a kick outta seeing sights that I’ve only seen pictures or television footage of. Now when I see that stadium on tv, I will think of this trip and won’t be able to help but have a smile on my face. Like a good song, memories of a road trip are triggered at the most unexpected times and can instantly transport you back to that place of joy. I hope to be able to have moments like that for the rest of my life, however long that may be. Truthfully, the way I ride, it could all be over next week.
The final day into Sturgis started with a breakfast meal, some coffee, and lots of laughter. I love taking road trips with a group of people because you start to bond with them creating a relationship unlike any other you experience in your life. Dave is a genuine hero who makes his living defending our freedoms, but on the road, he’s just another guy on a Harley, he’s one of us. Jennifer is a mother of 4 who recently graduated college and is trying to make her mark on the world and give her children the most she can, but on the road she’s just like one of the guys. Truthfully, as high maintenance as she would appear, she was probably the most easygoing and relaxed one out of all of us. Well, she definitely had prettier feet than Mike! She was the most pleasant surprise of the whole trip, and she definitely ordered some of the best food! If I had been calling the shots, these two wouldn’t have been making the trip with us, but after we were on the road a few days, I wouldn’t have had it any other way. I am so thankful they made the trip and really hope we can all do it again. Relatioships like these aren’t built at the workplace, at kids’ little league, or even in Sunday school. Relationships like this are only molded in the fire of a road trip, the harshness of the trip causes each person to accept his or her role in the group and before too long you no longer think about yourself, you are thinking of the group.



As we were heading North out of Denver, I found my mind being massaged by the memories of years past making this same trip. 05’ was my cherry popping first, riding with El Bandito and his Motley Crue of madmen followed by the harem in the chase truck. 06’ was the marathon trip to Sturgis (26 hrs door to door) that included 5 days of hedonism and utter debauchery. 08’ we took Bryan for the first time and had to stop every 60 miles because of Mike’s peanut gas tank and consistent breakdowns. This year had been different, almost too fun to describe in its simplicity and total lack of extraordinary. This year it was just an endless stretch of black ribbon leading us to the land of milk and honey. That’s when I heard it. Sounding like thunder raoring next to me, Mike had a look of evil on his face and I knew it was now time to race, so we hammered down.
Riding at over 100 mph usually beats the shit outta me when I do it for any length of time, but that was before I got Ole Bessie, my black bitch of death! This bike cuts through the air like a samurai sword. I look down and we are hitting 90-100 mph and splitting lanes like a couple of convicts making a getaway. Mike looks like he’s in heaven as he is gripping his highbars and hanging on keeping up. This is what riding should be like; a constant shot of adrenaline that makes your heart pound in your chest and your soul shout with excitement. Then I shift to 5th! Like a goddamn rocketship the V-Rod enters another level of bad ass! I look down at one point and see my speedo climbing past 120, 125, 130….holy shit. I was getting nervous becaue this bike has had a history of headshake when pushing past 120, but I recently did a fallaway adjustment, and she seemed stable. The H-D manual calls for 4-6 inches fallaway, I set it at 2.5 on each side. It was set a little off center from the factory, 1” on the left, and 5” on the right. I think that’s why it would wobble. I looked down one fmore time and saw 142 on the speedo, then I hit the rev limiter! So I can honestly say, my bike has a top speed of 142 mph, AND it’s still stock. Well, except for the Dand D Fat Cat, it’s stock. I slowed down some and waited for Mike, who it seemed must have backed off his throttle. I’m sure his 117 hp monster couldn’t have been spanked that bad, right?
Once he caught up, we decided to ride into Sturgis together and we’d meet up with the rest of the pack in Sturgis. As is usually the case with young guns, we rode really fast, missed a few turns, pushed the envelope as much as we could, and still arrived at camp AFTER the turtles. Oh well, atleast we had fun while getting there.
The 70th rendition of Sturgis was more crowded than in years past. We had to wait everywhere we went and I also noticed the money seemd to leave my pocket faster. I know that 5 shots and 5 beers cost me a cool 54 dollars this year, 60 with the tip (yeah she was cute). I also spent $240 getting a front tire put on, not really a purchase I had planned on making. My tires seemed perfect when I left Houston, but I guess once they start to show wear, it goes fast.
Our days were filled with sitting around camp while the nights were a conglomeration of laughter, alcohol, and total disregard for consequences. The crew at One Eyed Jacks is starting to become familiar to me and we have even settled on two very familiar bartenders. One of whom is nice to look at, the other, well she’s just too much fun not to hang with. After one episode where she handcuffed me, molested me with a blow-up doll and whip cream, and introduced me to the bottom of the beer trough, we were at the hottest bar in the joint. It seems people love to watch some poor soul get abused, luck would have it, this time it was me. Thanks Jennifer, paybacks are a bitch, remember that.
While we did spend some time riding around the towns, most of our time in Sturgis was spent relaxing, visiting, and just being. Every time I wanted to pull out my camera to take a shot I would think, “I already have that, 3 times.” Or I’d see something and just laugh and enjoy it rather than trying to capture the moment. This was the greatest getaway of my life because I had no expectations or obligations to fill. Mike and I had been here before, so we went with whatever everyone else wanted. Bryan did his own thing and even left a day earlier than us because he wanted to head back. Dave and Jen, well they were Woody’s problem, so we didn’t worry about showing them a good time. This year was spectacular in its simplicity and leck of expectations. It was just what we needed.
After three nights of alcoholic bliss, Woody, Dave, and Jennifer had to hit the road. It seems Woody needed to get Jen home to Wisconsin to her family. After visiting his grandkids for a day or two, then he and Dave would head to Massachusettes to Daves family. After several days there, Woody would make the trip back to Houston, 16 days and approximately 6000 miles…what a beast!
After they packed up and Jen stopped laughing from watching the video of my bar rape, we said our goodbyes and watched them take off. It’s funny, I had a serious knot in my stomach as they left and I truly wanted nothing more than to pack up and go with them. I felt as if I had just lost a friend, like my dog just ran away or my goldfish just died. It was kinda funny how as they took off, I was truly sad. I looked over at Mike and could tell by the look on his face he was feeling the same way. Almost simultaneously, we looked at eachother and said, “Let’s go home.” And with that, we started packing our bags and cleaning up camp.
Friday, August 13th, at 3 pm, we left Sturgis. I felt sad that the party had ended but was looking forward to the ride home and the time to just become hynotized by the rythym of the blacktop being eaten by my front tire. With a plan to take more interstate than years past, we were expecting to make it home by Sunday, but as we got rolling we began to feed off eachother and pushed ourselves to make the trip even faster than in years past.
The memories of events I didn’t list here are still smile inducing (two words, nail file). While we didn’t beat our best record of 26 hours, we did make it in 31. 1450 miles, 31 hours, and a lifetime worth of memories to sustain us for the year. We arrived home Saturday at 9:55 pm. I walked into the front door and announced to the world, “Daddy’s home!”
Nothing, just my dog begging for my attention. It seems my wife and children had went to a friends for the night and I had rushed home for nothing. So I sat on my couch, drank a beer, and celebrated my 36th birthday alone. As I fell asleep, I could feel myself smiling thinking back on this years trip and the new friends I made. Drifting off I subconciously began counting, but instead of counting sheep, I was counting weeks….51 and counting till next year…Sturgis 2011.
S&S 106” Big Bore Kit for 2007-Up Big Twin and S&S 97” Big Bore Kit for 1999-’06 Big Twin
By Bandit |
Here’s the latest hot shoe upgradefor Twin Cams from S&S. This tech included four element groups beginningwith the S&S Big Bore Kit, an updated Hybrid billet cam plate and enhancedHigh Flow oil pump from Harley-Davidson, an S&S Super E carb, and a set ofBub exhaust pipes. We could have wrapped up this operation and rolled to happyhour in a day, but we decided to add a final fuel and air delivery upgrade tothe mix and have Bandit’s son, Frank’s 2002 Dyna heads ported by the BranchO’Keefe master, John O’Keefe.
That’s not all. We installed a setof mid range S&S Standard and Easy Start 583 chain drive camshafts and aset of S&S Quickee adjustable pushrods, tappets, and travel limiters.
We ran through this entire operationat Bennett’s Performance in Long Beach, with Eric Bennett as our mastermechanic and guru. We will cover this operation, as if you were going toscramble into this performance procedure at home, but it’s best to have anexperienced tech, with the proper machinery and specialized JIMS tools handy.Besides any process such as this one wails along much quicker with experiencedhands behind the tools.
We reached out to S&S for theirhighly detailed instruction booklet, plus we checked in with Steve Bohn andpeeked at his H-D cam plate article for reference. It’s best to reach out tothe experts. Here’s the S&S guidelines with our comments:
SAFE INSTALLATION AND OPERATION RULES:
Before installing your new S&S part it is yourresponsibility to read and follow the installation and maintenance proceduresin these instructions and follow the basic rules below for your personalsafety. Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions and toxic when breathed. Do not smoke. Perform installation in a well ventilated area away fromopen flames or sparks. Ifmotorcycle has been running, wait until engine and exhaust pipes have cooleddown to avoid getting burned before performing any installation steps.
Before performing any installation steps disconnect batteryto eliminate potential sparks and inadvertent engagement of starter whileworking on electrical components. Read instructions thoroughly and carefully soall procedures are completely understood before performing any installationsteps. Contact S&S with anyquestions you may have if any steps are unclear or any abnormalities occurduring installation or operation of motorcycle with a S&S part on it.
Consult an appropriate service manual for your motorcyclefor correct disassembly and reassemblyprocedures for any parts that need to be removed to facilitate installation.
Use good judgment when performing installation and operatingmotorcycle. Good judgment beginswith a clear head. Don’t letalcohol, drugs or fatigue impair your judgment. Start installation when you are fresh. If that’s possible.
Run motorcycle in a well ventilated area where fumes candissipate.
KIT CONTENTS
(2) 3.927” pistons (front and rear pistons are the same)
(2) 0.927” piston pins
(4) Piston pin clips
(2) Ring packs which include the top, second, oil rail, andexpander rings
(2) Cylinders
(2) MLS (Multi Layer Steel) head gaskets
(2) Cylinder base O-rings
(2) Cylinder base dowel O-rings
(2) Exhaust gaskets
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIREMENTS
• Harley-Davidson service manual for the specific model youare working on
• Piston C-clip installer
• Piston ring compressor
• Piston ring expander
• Piston ring end gap filing tool
• Digital or dial calipers
• Feeler gauge
GENERAL INFORMATION
The 3.927” bore pistons with 1.090” deck height andcylinders are intended for stock stroke (4.375”) 2007-up big twin and 1999-2006big twin engines with 4.375”stroke flywheels. This combination yields a displacement of 106”. The 3.927”bore pistons with 1.270” deck height and cylinders are intended for stockstroke (4.000”) 1999-’06 big twin engines. This combination yields adisplacement of 97”. Pistons are the same for the front and rear cylinders andcan be used with either cylinder.
The 3.927” piston is marked with an arrow that should pointto the front of the engine when installed. The pistondiameter is measured at the factory before the piston skirt coating is applied;this diameter is used for the final cylinder hone by S&S Cycle.
Do not attempt to re-hone the cylinder based on pistondiameter measurements taken with the piston skirt coating applied. This will lead to an incorrect pistonto bore clearance. In all cases it is the engine builder’s responsibility toconfirm proper clearances when assembling an engine. This is especially critical with performance components suchas larger valve, high performance heads and high lift camshafts.
In addition to clearances mentioned, 0.060” valve to pistonclearance must be confirmed.
DISASSEMBLY
Refer to the Harley-Davidson manual for your specificmotorcycle for the correct disassembly procedure.
The engine should be disassembled to the short block i.e.induction system, exhaust system, cylinder heads, cylinders, and pistons shouldbe removed.
First, and foremost Eric disconnected Frank’s battery, thenthe fuel lines. He removed the lifter boxes, unbolted the heads and took theboth heads and intake system off in one chunk.
Then he pulled the cylinders, “I’m curious if we couldjust bore the stock cylinders,” Eric said, “and add the largerpistons.” He popped the stock pistons off the rods and check the rods forwear. This S&S system comes with pre-bored barrels, in case you don’t haveboring capabilities.
S&S doesn’t feel secure with the stock cast iron barrelsleeve configuration. They bore the cylinders to almost 4 inches (.397) and thespigot on stock cylinders gets damn thin. The material used in S&S linersis alloy engineering grade cast iron and is a lot stronger.
“We don’t recommend boring stock cylinders thisbig,” said Bruce Tessmer from S&S. “The fact that the boltpattern and spigot diameter are stock means that a mechanic won’t need to chargefor case boring to install a big bore kit. That makes this installation a lotless expensive.”
Eric cleaned the cam case and removed the 2002 stock cambearings using a JIMS special tool plate to keep the bearing extraction andinstallation in perfect alignment.
Note: For cam S&S lifts over .510-inch S&S stronglyrecommends upgrading to an S&S gear drive or the H-D part number 25284-08 Hybrid cam plate and highflow oil pump kit. This kit upgrades the problematic spring loaded chaintensioners to reliable hydraulic tensioners, and upgrade the oil pump.
Here’s how Stevedescribed the new cam plate and oil pump upgrade: In 2007 H-D engineers came up with a higher volume oil pump,capable of providing 8-percent more volume to the lubricating system as well asa 22-percent increase in its scavenging ability. Along with the new oil pumpHarley introduced a new cam chain tensioning system utilizing a pair of automatic, hydraulic tensioners, whichreplaced the current spring-loaded tensioner system. By no means are these theonly improvements to the original TC design, but what separates them from otherimprovements is that fact that Harley offers the Hybrid Cam Plate and High-FlowOil Pump kit, (P/N 25284-08 $429.95) that allows owners of 1999-2005 Dynas,1999-2006 Touring models, and 2000-20006 Softails, to easily upgrade theirbikes to the latest technology available on the TC-96 engine.
If you own a TC 88-inchbike and want to take advantage of the improvements seen on the TC-96 enginesyou should put some serious thought into adding this kit to your bike. Whilethese components are definitely an enhancement to a stock engine, they makeeven more sense when it comes to engines that have had high-performancecomponents added to them. Just the improvements in the oil pump alone make thisa modification to seriously consider. Add to that, the longevity and peace ofmind you get with the hydraulic tensioners, and it just makes sense to installthe kit.
Factory focus was theamount of pressure the tensioner applied to the primary, and secondary doublerow cam drive chains. The force applied by the springs (35 lbs-40 lbs) made theshoes (two of them) a serious friction wear and engine debris issue. Thecompletely redesigned hydraulic tensioners apply less force to the new singlerow primary chain on 2002-2006 models, (1999-2001 models utilize the originaldouble row primary chain to maintain the cam position sensor function). Theshoe is made from is a proprietary composite Harley declined to explain to mebut, they did indicate it is designed to last far longer than its predecessor.
Note: The new pumplooks similar to the old one with only a few visual cues to the upgraded part.What really separates the two is the size of the gerotors (housed inside) usedto move the oil through the pumps, (see photo).
While an increasedvolume of lubricating oil to vital components is an obvious advantage to anyengine, where the new oil pump really shines is in its ability to scavenge oilfrom the engine cases. Unlike water cooled engines, air cooled engines rely farmore on the lubricating oil to help maintain the engine’s operatingtemperature. With 22-percent increased scavenging ability, the high volume pumpcan easily suck hot oil from the bottom end, quickly returning it to the oiltank allowing it to cool.
“Having a largeamount of oil clogging the crankcase actually creates heat and robs power asthe flywheels plow through the oil,” Said Bruce Tessmer. “It’s liketrying to run in a swimming pool.”
Note: When installing the cams you will needto purchase a spacer kit (P/N 25285-08 $17.95) to assure your cam sprockets arealigned properly. With the cams installed, the secondary chain and adjuster goon prior to installing the oil pump and bolting up the new plate. Next, thesprockets, chain, and primary chain adjuster get installed.
A series of special toolsare required for the cam plate and cam replacement operation, including a shoppress. You can order these tools directly through JIMS or from H-D:
H-D #42325
H-D #43644
H-D #43213
H-D #43214
Attempting the camchange operation without these tools will be a hassle and can result indamaging components. The 1999 models used interchangeable ball bearings on theouter end of both cams. For 2000 and up, the rear bearing is a roller type andthe front bearing is a ball bearing type. It is highly recommended to update1999 models to the 2000 and up.
The new oil pump is aneasy fit with an O-ring, “But you need to be careful not to pinch, tear orsqueeze that bastard,” Eric said. “If it doesn’t seal, it will wetsump and fill the crankcase with oil, dragging the lower end down.”
Eric installed many ofthe components, including the Gerotor gears with assembly lube. He also madesure the pump didn’t bottom against the case and cut off scavengingcapabilities.
“Don’t forget the O-rings andwasher before you press on the cam race,” Eric said as he began to switchover to new S&S amazing Easy-Start cams and the new plate.
He pressed out the oldcams from the stock plate and grabbed the drive chain, which he carefullyinstalled in the same direction as before. He marked the timing marks on theoutside of the cam plate so it would be easy to confirm alignment from theoutside. Then he pressed the cams into the new H-D billet plate and installedthe new cam tensioner and chain.
Then I discovered thatthe official Bikernet Hearse died in the Bennett’s Parking lot, directly infront of their shop roll-up door. The starter was shot, rusted from 16 years inPennyslvania show and ice. John, the whiskey drinking Bennett’s customer, cameto our aid, and she was fixed in no-time.
Eric installed thefantastic 583C S&S Easy-Start cams.
The new Easy Start Camsfrom S&S Cycle make hard starting obsolete for 1999-up big twins. Availablein chain drive and gear drive versions.
Features:
• Start any engine witha stock starter
• Save your starter andbattery!
• Reliable – tested for10,000 starts and didn’t
even run the batterydown!
• Automatic – nobuttons to push
THREE MOST POPULARGRINDS
A bolt-in cam for allRPM ranges.
Something for everyone.
S&S set out todevelop a new group of bolt in cams for 2007-up big twins. The three designtargets were low end torque for touring, peak horsepower and a cam that wouldoffer the best possible combination between torque and horsepower. The 551emerged as the touring cam and the 583 is a great over all cam. The proven 585posted the best results for peak horsepower.
Here’s How they Work
ONE
Each of the two exhaustcam lobes are equipped with a spring loaded compression release lobe on the“heal” of the cam at the point where the valve would normally be fully closed.
TWO
The lobe holds theexhaust valve open slightly at cranking speed. This releases some of thecompression, making the engine much easier to crank.
THREE
Once the engine starts,and rpm increases, the compression release lobe is centrifugally retracted andthe engine runs normally, with full compression, and without any loss inperformance. This allows a stock starter and battery to start nearly anyengine.
Using stock pushrods isonly possible if the camshafts installed have the same base circle as stock,and no more than .585-inch lift. S&S kindly labels these cams as”Bolt-in” for easy reference. Currently S&S 510, 551, and 583cams are bolt in. Although, we were installing the 583 C S&S models, westill shifted to S&S adjustable pushrods, lifters and travel limiters.
Here’s a couple ofnotes from S&S regarding their cams and stock valve springs:
The 1999-2004 stocksprings will handle camshafts with lift up to .510. The 2005-up stock valvesprings will handle camshafts with lift up to .585. If a camshaft with higherlift is installed, high performance valve springs capable of handling a greaterlift must be used. A cam over .585 lift will cause interference between thevalve spring top collar and the valve seal with stock cylinder heads. That’sanother good reason we hauled Frank’s heads to Branch O’Keefe for tuning, andwe choose a mid range torque cam over a high-horsepower cam for cityride-ability.
Also, with big cams,piston and valve clearance must be confirmed. Clearance should be at least.060.
So, since the mastersof Branch Flowmetrics technology reside next door to Bennett’s we hauledFrank’s heads to John O’Keefe, who worked for Jerry Branch for decades andultimately took over and moved his shop to this Long Beach location.
Branch-O’Keefe
1940 Freeman Avenue
Signal Hill, CA 90755
562-597-2850
John and Bandit are excited about their debate over Evos vs.Twin Cams.
“We can get over a 100 horses out of an 80-inch Evo,with cams, headworks, and open exhaust system,” John told me during ourdiscussion of his head work system.
John is devoted to making Evos, Sportsters, and Twin Camsinto reliable torque monsters, capable of leaping tall buildings and dodgingcell phone drivers. He’s all about torque over tall-horsepower configurations.He basically allows an Evo or Twin Cam to breathe. First, he sandblasts anyhead. Then he hand cleans the castings where they over hang into the intake andexhaust ports to align the port with the edge of the valve seat.
“Each head is different,” John said, and hehandles each head forming by hand or on a tracer mil with a template head.”They need balance between volume and velocity,” said John. “Itdepends on how the rider plans to ride.”
Then they blend out all the traditional valve angles andgrind the valve to 60 degrees. John takes the stock intake of 1.850 to 1.900and the exhaust from 1.608 to 1.610. All his heads are fitted with AW Black Nytrate,indestructible valves. “After two running years, I can wire wheel one ofthese valves and they look like new,” John said.
Each head is fitted with AW bronze magnesium valve guidesfor great heat dissipation. “You can set these self-lubricating guides upmuch tighter that stock cast iron guides,” said John. “They are seventimes the cost of H-D guides and worth every penny.”
Theneach head is polished to a magic luster. Here’s the Branch O’Keefe two-stagehead descriptions:
#4 Heads for Twin-Cam and Evo’s
This performance head is designed to fit a variety of engineconfigurations and riding styles. Our #4 head works with both the Twin-Cam orEvo applications of varying displacements. Compression ratios for these headsare 9.6-1 for the Twin-Cam and 8.9-1 for the Evo. This results in a head thatperforms much higher than its stock counterpart. $950.00
PT Heads for Twin-Cams
Our PT head is the result of many hours of R&D,specifically designed for touring riders with 88-inch or 95-inch Twin-Camengines. The benefit of this exceptional designed head is that it provideslow-end torque that is so often required for loaded-down, long distancemotorcycles. Compression ratio is based around a figure of 9.5-1 when used withour flat top pistons. The result is power where it’s most needed: in the2000-4000 rpm range. $850.00
The Bikernet staff is very intrigued with head modificationcapabilities and Branch O’Keefe. Jerry Branch, who at 86, still hangs out atthe shop and mentors John. He designed the first bathtub heads for Harleyduring the AMF era, in 1978. We will bring you more info on their head studiesas we build our next torque monster Evo 80. In the meantime let’s put Frank’sDyna back together.
Final Installation:
Notes
Important! The gap of the second ring should be larger than the top ring; this willhelp keep the top ring seated for improved performance.
Each ring should be fitted to the particular cylinder inwhich they will be installed.
Oil rails can be installed without adjusting the endgap. The minimum gap should be0.010”
Never alter the end gap of the oil expander ring.
1- Make sure the cylinder is clean. Wash the cylinder bore with soap andwater and dry thoroughly.
2- Check the ring end gap by placing the ring into thecylinder. Use a piston or caliperto ensure that the ring is placed squarely in the bore.
3- Measure the ring end gap with a feeler gauge.
4- See table for proper end gap measurement. If adjustment to the gap must be made,use a proper ring end gap filing tool.
Ring Gap Recommendations:
Top: Between .016-.022 with a target of .017
2nd: Between .016-.026 with a target of .021
Oil ring rails: Between .010-.050 with a target of .010-.050
5- Always file from the ring face towards the insidediameter to avoid damaging the face coating.
6- Remove material from only one end of the ring.
7- Ensure that ring end gaps are square.
8- Remove sharp edges and burrs.
9- Recheck gap measurement and adjust as necessary.
10- Repeat procedure with the other rings.
Piston RingInstallation
Eric rinsed off the piston and blew it clean beforeinstalling the rings.
Order ofinstallation
1- Oil ring expander
2- Oil ring rails
3- 2nd ring
4- Top ring
1- Install theoil ring expander to the bottom groove of the piston. The expander ring has a gold finish. Make sure the end of the expander ringis butted together and not overlapping (see image). If the tips are overlapped, excessive oil consumption willoccur. Orient the expander
2- Install oil rails. The oilrails are the thinnest of all the rings. Either side can be placed up. Use a ring expander to install the rails into the
3- Install the 2nd ring with the dot facing up. The 2nd ring has a dull black finish and is the thickest ofall the rings. Use an expander toinstall the ring to the 2nd groove in the piston. Orient the gap according to the image.
4- The top ringcan be installed with either face up. The top ring has a chrome edge and is thicker than the oil rails. Use an expander to install
the ring to the top groove. Orient the gap according to the image.
PistonInstallation
Notes
Pistons are identical and can be installed in eithercylinder. Each piston is stamped“FWD” and an arrow which must point toward the front of the engine whenassembled.
Check piston pin to connecting rod bushingclearance. Clearance should bebetween 0.0007” and 0.0012”. Bushing should be replaced if clearance exceeds 0.002”.
1- Place rubber tubing over the cylinder studs to preventdamage to the pistons and rings during assembly.
2- Place a clean sheet of plastic over the crankcaseopenings to prevent anything from dropping into the crankcase.
3- Install one of the piston pin clips into each of thepistons. Make sure the piston pinclip opening is facing up when installed.
4- Lightly oil the piston pin, piston pin bore and upperconnecting rod bushing with clean 20W-50 oil or assembly lube. Eric used assembly lube.
5- Hold the piston over the connecting rod with the pistonfacing the correct direction and the piston pin bore and upper bushing boreslined up.
6- Install the piston pin through the piston pin bore and through theconnecting rod bushing until the pin contacts the clip.
7- Install the other piston clip with the opening facingup. Ensure that both clips arefully seated.
8- Repeat procedure for the rear piston.
“Don’t forget the base O-ring,” said Eric.”And don’t forget the cylinder drain O-ring.”
CylinderInstallation
1- Bring the front cylinder to TDC.
2- Apply a light coating of oil to the piston, rings andcylinder walls.
3- Apply a light coating of oil to the cylinder base o-ringand install on the cylinder.
4- Lightly oil the new o-rings for the lower cylinder deckalignment dowels and install.
5- Verify that the ring gaps are orientated correctly, referto the S&S image.
6- Remove the rubber tubing from the cylinder studs.
7- Install a suitable ring compressor.
8- Install cylinder.
9- Remove ring compressor.
10- Remove plastic sheeting covering crankcase.
11- Slide the cylinder down until it seats against thecrankcase.
12- Rotate the engine until the rear cylinder is at TDC.
13- Repeat procedure for the rear cylinder.
E- CylinderHead Installation
Head Gasket Tightening Torque Specifications
Multi layer steel (MLS) head gasket, PN 106-3714, 3.927”bore.
1- Check surfaces for flatness and imperfections, anexcessively rough finish may cause gasket failure.
2- Check all hardware for defects. Clean all threads and lubricate with clean oil. Lubricate the underside flange of thehead bolts with clean oil (wipe away excess).
3- The head bolts are two different lengths. The short ones go on the spark plugside; the long ones go on the pushrod side.
“I use anti-seize on all head-bolt threads,” Ericsaid as the engine flew back together.
4- Place the head gasket on the cylinder and locate thegasket using the cylinder head alignment dowels. Either face of the gasket can be up, there is not a specifictop or bottom to the gasket.
Note: Do not usethe cylinder head alignment dowel O-rings with MLS head gasket.
5- Once the gasket is in place, make sure that it fits thebore. The gasket should not hanginto the bore or combustion chamber area.
6- If using cylinder heads other than stock, check the brassrivets of the MLS gaskets to ensure the rivets do not interfere with thesealing surface in any way.
Head Bolt Tightening Sequence
7- Important! In order toproperly seal the head gasket, the head bolts must be torqued in the sequenceshown in the next step, fully loosened, then torqued again a 2nd time. Follow the head tighteningsequence in the next step then fully loosing the head bolts ¼ turn at a time inthe sequence shown in until fully loose. Repeat the tightening sequence in step 8 a second time.
8- Tighten the head bolts according to the followingprocedure: start with the front head then the rear head.
a- Tighten each bolt finger tight using the sequence in theimage from S&S.
b- Tighten each bolt to 10-12 ft-lbs using the sequence.
c- Tighten to 15-17 ft-lbs using the sequence.
d- Finally, tighten the bolts an additional ¼ turn (90degrees).
FinalAssembly
Assemble the remaining items according to theHarley-Davidson service manual specific for your motorcycle.
Once assembly is complete, the proper tuning must becompleted before the engine can be broken in. An S&S VFI module or other aftermarket tuning
system must be used to correctly adjust the ignition timingand fuel control systems to correctly function with the newly installed parts.
Note: The S&SVFI module will not work with 2008-up Touring models due to the use of throttleby wire.
S&S ADJUSTABLE PUSHRODS AND TRAVEL LIMITERS
S&S now manufactures and hydraulic lifter kit replacingstandard hydralic lifters with restrictive units.
“They make the engine quieter,” said Eric,”but their real benefit is at high rpm, where they make the valve traintiming more consistent for better power.”
The S&S HL2T kit is designed to limit the travel of thehydraulic lifter making it impossible for the lifter to collapse. Strongervalve springs are often used to avoid valve float at high rpm. The HL2T kitprevents high valve spring pressure from collapsing lifters. With the kitinstalled, stock hydraulic lifters work like solid lifters at high rpm, whileretaining normal hydraulic function for minimal noise and maintenance undernormal conditions. Another advantage of the HL2T kit is that if a valve is heldopen when the engine is not running, valve spring pressure will not causelifters to bleed down and collapse. Collapsed lifters can cause hard startingand excessive valve train noise when the engine is restarted. Adjustablepushrods must be used with this kit.
Be careful when replacing adjustable pushrods. Some lockagainst the lifter and some against the pushrod. Don’t be deceived. We will rundown some of the S&S instructions and recommendations.
S&S quickee Pushrods for all big twin engines containtwo long and two short pushrods. If your kit contains four different lengthpushrods, the longest pushrod is for the front exhaust, next longest is therear exhaust. Of the two shorter pushrods, the longer one is for the frontintake, the shortest pushrod is designed for the rear intake. The pushrods kitsfor 1999-up big twin engines have two different lengths, short for intakes,long for exhaust valves.
All installation and adjustments must be made when theengine is cold.
Rotate engine until front piston is at the top of it’sstroke, with both front lifters at their lowest position (TDCC–top deadcenter, compression).
If equipped with S&S Easy Start compression releasecams, you must use extra care when adjusting pushrods. Because thedecompression lobe is near TDC, it is possible to adjust the pushrod while thetappet is on the lobe, if it’s not exactly at TDC. This will cause incorrectexhaust pushrod adjustment. To verify correct position, you can rotate theengine in the forward direction and feel for the exhaust tappet to slightly lift(about .030) and set back down on the base circle. This is the proper point toadjust the pushrods.
Extend the front pushrod until it contacts the hydraulicpiston assembly in the lifter body, then extend pushrod an additional fourcomplete turns, until piston assembly is in contact with the HL2T spacer andthe valve is lifted off the seat. If tappets contain oil, as when pushrods arereadjusted after engine has run, or if all oil was not removed duringinstallation, allow as least 20-30 minutes for piston assembly to bleed down.
Loosen pushrod adjustment until pushrod can be rotated withthe fingers with slight drag. Continue loosening (shortening pushrod) on fullturn, or six flats.
Note: Shortening adjuster an additional six flats, or fullturn from zero lash often results in quieter pushrod operation. This providesadditional travel for the hydraulic piston assembly, which can improve theability of the hydraulic unit to maintain zero lash under normal operatingconditions.
Tighten the lock nut.
Repeat above procedure for the rear cylinder, this timebringing rear cylinder to TDCC.
Caution: When installed and adjusted, S&S Quickeepushrods must have a minimum thread engagement of .500 or 1/2-inch (pushrodtube to adjuster, not including the jam nut) or severe damage to the pushrod aswell as your engine may occur.
When adjustment is complete, the jam nut must have fullthread engagement with the adjuster screw. If you do not have full engagement,the pushrod is not correct for the application or position.
S&S SUPER E CARBURETOR INSTALLATION
We aren’t going there. S&S ships out a 32-page manualwith every carb. Eric basically pulled the S&S intake manifold, which isdesigned for a multitude of applications. He shaved it to fit the Twin cam headconfiguration, installed the new S&S supplied rubber sealing rings and usedYost Allen (45 degree) wrenches.
“The intake manifold, which is generally a 10-minutejob,” Eric said, “turned into a half-hour ordeal.”
decked, effectively shortening the engine height, the manifold may be
too long,” said Bruce.
He installed the new shiny E-series carb with the insulatingblock and gasket, and tightened it from the left side. Then he installed thegas line being careful to run the line away from hot spots. He installed thetank vent then installed the rocker boxes. The only item not supplied with thekit were the rocker box gaskets. There are six bolts to hold the tray down, sixbolts fasten the girdle, and six bolts hold the lid in place. The smaller boltsmust be torqued to 22 ft pounds and the large to 120 inch pounds.
Eric installed and adjusted the throttle cables, checked thegas line, installed the backing plate, air cleaner, and we used the auxiliarychoke knob, not the one that is fastened to the air cleaner backing plate.Finally he lowered the tank back into position and we were ready to rock.
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
Notes:
S&S engines and parts are designed for highperformance and are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in. Correct break-in will assure longerengine life andwill prevent unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused by improper break-in is not covered under theS&S Warranty.
Proper engine tuning will need to be performed for yourengine to run correctly. This canbe achieved with the use of an S&S VFI module or other aftermarket tuner.
1- Initial start up. Run the engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750rpm. DO NOT crack the throttle or subject toany loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at thistime. During this time, check tosee that oil pressure is normal, oil is returning to the
oil tank and no leaks exist.
2- Shut off engine and inspect for leaks. Allow engine to cool to the touch.
3- Start up engine again and allow the engine to warm up for3 to 4 minutes. Again, do notcrack the throttle or subject the engine to any type of load. Shut down the engine and allow tocool. Repeat this procedure atleast 3 more times.
4- After the engine has cooled to room temperature, you areready to start the 500 mile engine break-in process.
5- The first 50 miles are the most critical for new ringsand piston break-in. Engine damageis most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500rpm. Avoid lugging the engine, riding in hotweather or in traffic. Vary theengine speed. We recommend
changing the oil after the first 50 miles.
6- The next 500 miles should be spent running no faster than3500rpm or 60mph. Avoid runningcontinuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine, Vary the rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at500 miles.
7- For the balance of the first 1000 miles the engine can berun in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and the motorcycle can beoperated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine; no drag
racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.
8- After 1000 miles, change the engine oil. Now the motorcycle can be operatednormally.
OIL RECOMMENDATIONS
S&S Cycle recommends the use of Mobil 1® V-TWIN 20W-50synthetic oil. Break-in can be performed with either conventional oil or Mobil1 synthetic oil. Regardless of what type of oil you select, be sure to only useoil specifically designated for use in an air cooled motorcycle and utilize theviscosity suggested for the temperature you will be operating your motorcyclein.
Viscosity
SAE 20W50 –above 30-100 degrees
SAE 50–above 60-100 degrees
SAE 60–above 80 degrees
WARRANTY:
All S&S parts are guaranteed to the original purchaserto be free of manufacturing defects in materials and workmanship for a periodof twelve (12) months from the date of purchase. Merchandise that fails to conform to these conditions willbe repaired or replaced at S&S’s option if the parts are returned to us bythe purchaser within the 12 month warranty period or within 10 daysthereafter.
5-Ball Racing, Bonneville 2010, Part 11
By Bandit |
Holy shitaroo, what a year! Westarted out with the notion for a Streamlined 45 like Burt Monroe. Thestreamliner rules prohibited the dream, but we kept moving with Departure BikeWorks, until the economy sucked the life out of Lee’s business, and state taxesalmost shut him down. The Bonne Belle slowed like two flat tires in the mud.
Suddenly, like a lightening strikein the night, the Peashooter, with its stroked overhead valve engine, wasalmost rebuilt, and Sierra Madre Motorcycles offered to help modify and repairmy old Peashooter frame, through Mackie. Berry Wardlaw from AccurateEngineering had the perfect front end, a miniature Ceriani glide from the ’60s.I had to give the Peashooter Bonneville effort my best shot, but we only had acouple of months.
We now have three days beforedeparture, and I’m still waiting on the primary drive through Classic Cycles,in Orange, California. It was recently shipped from England. This weekend, wemade the Envy Cycle Peashooter fairing brackets and mounted the windshield.Terry Lee hand-fabbed the entire unit with my scattered dimensions. I thoughtthe Peashooter would be a breeze, but it’s been packed with interestingchallenges.
“Just read theSunday News; the Peashooter is looking sexy as hell,” said Terry Lee.”You missed you’re calling. Crazy week for you, I’m sure. Best of luck;it’ll all come together. Too much effort has gone into this endeavor for it totake a shit this late in the game.”
It’s inspirationalthoughts like Terry’s that keep me moving and positive. I have a thing aboutcommunication. The more you communicate, the more you learn, find, and broadenyour approach. Every positive thought helps.
Thefront end was metric, so nothing fit. We saved it with Paughco 45 parts and alot of machining. Someone helped me with the ’42 pre-unit BSA transmission, butI’ve lost contact. Mike Pullin’ and his partner made the oil bag out of a fireextinguisher. Then I had to find a primer pump for the total loss system.
I was nervous about the amount ofoil in the lower end, so we set up a clear tube, like a gas tank fuel levelgauge, so we can monitor how much oil is in the lower end. I ran a valve at theend of the hose so I could jump some oil, if need be.
We are due to pick up the seat andchest pad at Saddleman tomorrow at 2:00. For some reason, this year kicked myass. I let everything run too late, then pre-determined that all was well, whenit wasn’t.
Berry Wardlaw held onto the AssaltWeapan for two years, then sent it back, race ready, but it wasn’t tuned, andnow the top end is off, while we wait for J&E rings and gaskets. We madejust 10 passes on the dyno and discovered problems with the rings and lowcompression in the rear cylinder, which was causing the famous Pan to spewoil.
But we’re prepared to give it hell,if the parts arrive, and the Pegasus crew is standing by for tuning. Berry isone of the most passionate guys in this industry, but like so many folks in theUnited States, the economy kicked his ass.
So, here’s where I stand at thissecond. We need the Peashooter primary system, final powder-coating from Worco,a machined and modified engine pulley, the Saddleman seats, a Biker’s Choicechain, a blessing from the gods of alignment, oil in the BSA transmission, andthe bastard to start. Billy Lane will be proud. I traded him a 1913 Pope enginefor the 1926 overhead valve Peashooter engine.
We are now ordering banners for thesalt and magnetic 5-Ball racingsigns for our vehicles. I bought some spare sparkplugs for the Peashooter andthe Assalt Weapan. Fuckin’ auto parts didn’t have all the plugs we needed. Thesalesman spewed sweet saleman’s banter as he searched parts bins to no avail.If the inventory was as slick and his lighthearted remarks, we would have beenin terrific shape.
We will begin the packing processalong with the continued Peashooter build and Assalt Weapan repairs tonight.Sin Wu should be packing, but she’s making a sexy Burning Man outfit for aknockout Hispanic broad with the biggest torpedo tits I’ve ever seen. Sinrefuses to introduce her to me. Wonder why?
Jim Murillo did a helluva job withthe paint, matching the two-stage powder from Worco. The guy is a true master.He sealed the tank with Casewell epoxy, bondo-filled any imperfections, workedwith me on the paintable decals from Wellington signs, and pinstriped thepanels, which were his notion. Plus, he came across in record time.
A generally fantastic thing aboutLos Angeles is access to anything, but when you have three days left, even LAis dicey. I received this e-mail this morning, but parts are stillmissing.
This just in:
Your primary set up is here!! I’ll work on hunting down the kicker metal piece and bolt/spring…Should be the same as Triumph. Yes, clutch and throttle cables will stillneed to be made at my shop. I’m pretty sure I’ve got the pushrodsituation figured out.
—Andy
Classic Cycles
Orange, CA
Jeremiah peeled south to pick up thegoods, but we’re still missing the elements to make a clutch cable, the nut tohold the clutch in place, and a clutch pushrod. Damn, we’re close, butalignment will be the key.
You should have been here the dayRay Wheeler, the president of Wheeler Racing, and I installed the transmissionsprocket.
“You need to raise or lower thetransmission,” Ray said, and started to take apart all my mounting parts.
I gulped hard. That was by far thetoughest obstacle to making this bike work. Several days of thought, machining,and tinkering went into making a flexible, yet solid system for mounting a1950s BSA 4-speed trans into this Peashooter frame.
Just then, Andy called from ClassicCycle. When I mentioned our dilemma he said confidently, “We run intothose issues constantly, where chains smack the frame. We hit the localskateboard shop and run idler wheels. It’s easy.”
I immediately remembered the systemwe set up for the Assalt Weapan with a bar of Teflon from the Bikernet treasurechest. I hit the drawer and found the key, another chunk of Teflon. Oursolution was in hand, and I could put the trans back in place. As it turned out,with some minor adjusting, the trans sprocket lined up with the ISR sprotorsprocket from LA Choprods. Amazing!
We used everything under thesizzling sun to determine whether the trans was straight or not. We didn’t haveany of the components in hand as we cut and welded a piece of rectangulartubing to two chunks of angle iron. We didn’t have the trans sprocket, themoney for the ISR sprotor, the primary drive, or the offset engine pulley.
Okay, most of the elements are in,and I’m waiting for a call from Bennett’s Performance. No parts arrived fromAccurate today, still waiting. This jams the Assalt Weapan, the World’s FastestPanhead repairs, right up against the efforts to finish the Peashooter. The key issue over the next couple ofdays will be the offset pulley for the Peashooter engine and a handful of BSAtranny parts. We need to mate the Paughco 45 pulley to the belt pulley with aspacer that aligns it with the clutch. That’s all and we’re ready to go. Hangon!