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The other day Sifu rolled up on his ’62 Panhead beaming. “I’ve owned this bike for 25 year,” he said through his glistening pearly whites. “It has never started first kick. It never idled at a stop with out my hand desperately working the throttle.” We stood there looking at the 60-year-old rider/martial arts master and smiled concurrently. The 41-year-old motorcycle idled as if it just rolled off the showroom floor. We converted his classic chopped Pan from an antequated 6-volt system to 12 volts, futzed with details on the bike, tuned it and changed the oil. It needed it. It’s a simple operation–yeah right. Nothing is simple on an old, well worn custom. If you want a stellar job done, you need to focus on the details, not just the job at hand. I’ll explain or die trying. Supplies used for detailing. Making a six /twelve is simple. Replace the battery, generator, regulator, coil and lights. Done deal. If the bike was new, that would have been the extent of it, but it wasn’t. It needed some new wiring, new battery cables and tenderness. The battery was a very different configuration so it needed to be repositioned. That’s just the tip of the iceberg. Ah, but the Bikernet staff is not complaining. We handle all projects as a team. Plus there was a couple of mighty reasons to go the extra mile with this putt. The bike is a classic, original custom built in 1975. It has never been changed since, except to slip Sugarbear’s rockers on the Dick Allen Springer for lighter handling. (See the Sugarbear article on Springer handling.) The bike belongs to Bandit’s Martial Arts instructor, a man who trained with Bruce Lee up until two weeks before Bruce passed on. He is a Martial Arts Hall of Famer, with too many other accolades to mention. But the bottom line is that he’s good people and a friend. Another reason to do step across the line, is our code. We like to do an outstanding job. Motorcycles are our lives, and we were going to write it up for the Bikernet readership to view. How’s that for enough reasons to handle the job with Geppetto aplomb? All the parts were ordered from Custom Chrome. And we’ll take you through ordering recommendations as we dive into the project. We started by ordering a 12 Volt generator, regulator, coil and battery. We discovered that the new generator didn’t come with hardware, so we had to dig out the old one and see what we had to work with. This shows the 6-volt unit with the gear in place. The new generator didn’t hold onto the gear in the same manner. Would it work? With a punch we drove the pin through the gear and the generator shaft. We had to scavange the gear off the 6-Volt unit and work it onto the new generator. It was pressed and pined to the 6-volt unit and bolted onto the 12-volt puppy. The 12-Volt didn’t come with bolts, gear fasteners or even a gasket. There weren’t ever wire stud nuts. We made up a puller to remove the gear from the old generator using some JIMS mainshaft bearing race puller tools. Since we were making another tool do the job we had to find a bolt that would extend our pulling function. It worked and the gear was removed. Generally, if you replace a 6-volt with 12-volt the bolt holes need to be drilled to 5/16 from 1/4 inch diameter holes. Plus the bolts need to be replaced. Early models had generator straps that supported the smaller bolts. They’re no longer necessary with the larger bolts holding the heavy generator in place. Nuttboy removed the old battery and cleaned the oil bag case with baking soda and water to nuetralize the acid. Then we cleared away any quarter-century rust. The ground wire was drilled and taped into a frame rail which wasn’t a secure or hearty notion. The dinky screw was feeble, so I found a plate where the frame had been modified and drilled a 1/4-inch hole, cleared away the paint and made a new, soldered-lug ground connection. We beefed up the area for the battery with a block of 2 by 4 wood and placed rubber sheets around it for insulation. The battery fit very loose, so I dug through my scrap drawer for a bicycle inner-tube. I tried wrapping it in coils for the correct thickness. In a sense we were rubber mounting the battery to make it last under the devastating rattle of a rigid. We were also insulating it from the metal walls that surround the battery. (A battery note: If you want to protect your bike and components for the evils of battery acid here’s a notion I’ve used in the past. I find a plastic bleach container, for example. Cut off the bottom of the container and slip it beneath the battery to protect the metal surrounding the battery and catch any acid escaping the cells.) We used the 1.25 amp Battery Tender to charge the battery slowly. The tender monitors progress and shuts off when the battery is fully charged. The battery came with battery acid and specific directions for filling each cell. Wrench let the battery set for almost an hour then refilled each cell. Then we charged the battery over night and finally topped off the cells once more before replacing the caps. We kept baking soda and water handy in case we spilled any acid. Extreme care, in dealing with this ugly shit, is mandatory. This shows the new battery in place, but wires are not in place. You can see the bicycle inner-tube suspension around the battery. We could have installed the original metal battery cover but chose not to for a couple of reasons. One, because of the risk of the battery coming in contact with the metal cap (since the cap is not designed for this battery configuration). Two, because of heat and without the cap the battery can breathe. Third, since Sifu had a custom seat, the area was concealed from view and the ugly battery top didn’t show. The old coil waiting to be removed. The new Thunder-Bolt coil came with everything including a mounting bracket, fasteners and sparkplug wires. Nuttboy began replacing the coil that comes with everything including the bracket, fasteners, wire lugs and spark plug wires. I generally cut wires or spark plug wires long for safety. Then I trimmed back the insulation and splayed the wires out and over the insulation edge for a guaranteed connection. I decided that Sifu’s cracked taillight lense needed to be replaced (it was busted and duck taped in place) and I found a billet license plate ring to conceal the bent and busted edges of the license plate. About that time Chris Kallas showed up with a ’60s doodle-bug frame that needed pegs and a brake-pedal manufactured. We took a break and became a welding shop for a couple of hours. Believe it or not Kallas is restoring that pieced of shopping-cart crap. He said they’re worth more restored. Back to the classic Pan. Sifu didn’t have a traditional regulator but a condensor style bolted to the battery. I removed it, traced the wire with a multimeter and used it for the hot connection to the regulator on the end of the generator. Unfortunately, whoever wired this beast, wrapped all the wires in black electrical tap instead of using loom. Some interesting wire configurating was necessary, but it worked out fine. One of the looms of wire had been stuffed between the left engine case and the generator–very hot placement. I moved the wire away from the cases and hid them behind the frame rail. These regulators are terrific. They are simple as hell. Just take the cap off your generator and replace it with this unit. Wire the Green wire to the generator terminal marked “F”. Attach the Red wire to the “A” or Armature terminal and the black wire heads back to the hot side of the battery. This unit comes with an indicator lighting system to show how it’s working. The red light indicates little or no charge, but when we screwed on the revs, the light turned green demonstrating that the generator is charging. If the lights go out there’s a problem. With the generator installed with new Custom Chrome Colony hardware it needed to be polarized. We could only handle this function after the new battery and regulator were wired into the system. Figure 1, is the diagram for polarizing mechanical regulators. Momentarily connect a jumper wire of adequate gauge (battery cable) between the “Bat” and the “Gen” terminal on the regulator after all wires have been properly connected and before starting the motor. Fig 2, shows how to polarize a generator system with an electronic regulator or rectifier. Before mounting the generator on the vehicle, place the generator on a non-conducting work surface (like a wooden bench) and connect the positive terminal of a battery to the armature terminal of the generator. Then momentarily “flash” the negative battery terminal to the generator field terminal. I ordered a Blue Streak set of points and condensor, since I wanted everything to be electrically fresh. We also replaced the sealed beam and the taillight bulb. I set the points at .022 and the plugs at .024. Then I attempted to time the puppy. I pulled the front intake valve clip and the sparkplugs and pushed the bike over until it began to close. Then I took the timing plug out of the left side of the engine and peered in the hole. When the slot arrived I positioned it directly in the rear of the hole pressed against the back of the circle. With an ohm meter Wrench losened the point plate with a 1/2 inch wrench and rotated the distributor until the points just opened as it was pushed into the advances position. Much care was taken to be exact. Later when tuning the carb I wasn’t happy with the way the bikes was running and scoured the books for a ’62 timing confirmation. Ultimately I discovered that this bike was equipped with a single point distributor but dual point wheels. I was looking at the wrong slot. I found the slot stamped with an “F” for front and reset the timing. Now it’s running sweet. I also discovered that the case bolt above the timing hole was loose and we removed it. The threads were stripped off one end, so I brazed the nut on that end and we replaced it for a solid, secure hold. Wrench removed the air cleaner and discovered a soaked, stained and burnt foam filter. We pulled it and went digging through the garage for a new filter. When we couldn’t find one we dug somemore finding filters for other bikes, so we made our own, soaked it down with foam air cleaner spray for the best filtration and installed the puppy. Wrench and I retuned the carb settings starting from scratch and followed the old manual. We discovered that the main was set very lean, like less than one turn out. The low end jet was also way off and we adjusted it per the manual, then started the bike and continued the adjustment process until it was warm. We also discovered an old rusty mirror and decided to replace it. We have a box fulla stock mirrors. We dug one out and discovered the stem was too long for the small handlebar clamp. We also discovered that the clamp was sloop and loose. Wrench dug a coke can out of the trash and split it in half with his sharp incisors. Then he cut a strip with tin snips and we shoved it underneath the clamp for a secure grip. That’s it, except for some cleaning and detail work. I touched up rusting fasteners with Rust-oleum gloss black and silver paint. It’s a classic and we want it to remain that way. –Bandit PARTS 17190 Blue Streak High-Performance Points and Condenser set. 25588 Thunderbolt Coil. This coil will replace the standard round 6-volt coil. The internal windings are 100 percent immersed in an oi-filled jacket. The oil insulation cannot become brittle with age or crack from heat like conventional jelly materials.. This coil kit includes wire-core yellow jacket spark plug leads with black 90 degree boots, a chromed coil bracket, and hardware. This was a key element for 40 bucks. Since the $200 generator didn’t come with shit. We needed the gear, the generator bolts and a gasket. 25920 Chromed generator. These units come with machine-wound armatures, hardened shafts and premium bearings are used throughout. We tried to but the generator with the regulator attached, but they weren’t in stock. 28092 Regulator with Integral Charging Monitor. This is a CC Rider regulator replacement. There are four regulators of this nature in the catalog. Two of them tout that they are designed for 6-12 Volt conversions, but neither were in stock. With my Panhead I tried the bolt in alternator. They’re bitchin’ except for one small problem. They can’t be used with little rigid frame replacement batteries. They’ll boil the suckers. 36265 Colony Generator Bolts. As it turned out this ’62 Pan had a two-brush 6-volt battery that was held in with the same bolts used with the later model 12-volt generators. Unfortunately Sifu had lost one of his, so we ordered a set. 18951 The smallest 12-volt battery in the Custom Chrome Catalog. I’ve had terrific luck with these little puppies. 12513 Universal Taillight lense: Click to order Catalog! Custom Chrome ® and Chrome Specialties ® have joined forces to bring you the most comprehensive product offering in the Harley-Davidson ® aftermarket! At over 1,400 pages and over 25,000 part numbers, our 2003 Catalog features everything from nuts & bolts to HR3 bike kits, and sets the NEW industry standard. ONLY $9.95 + 6.95 Shipping** Back to the Garage……..

	Bandit’s Bikernetis a registered trademark of 5 Ball, Inc. © 5 Ball, Inc.1996 – 2003. All Rights Reserved.

by Otilia Drăgan from https://www.autoevolution.com

Torrot’s New Enduro Motorcycles for Kids, Double the Fun While Keeping Them Safe

The world of enduro can be just as exciting for kids as it is for adults, as long as parents can make sure that everything is safe and under control. Already known for making motorbikes for children, Torrot has recently launched a second-generation range, perfect for introducing the little ones to this great sport.

Spanish-based Torrot is not a newcomer on the market. In fact, it’s got quite a history since its foundation in 1948, which led to eventually developing electric bikes, in the last few years. The company’s KIDS range was meant to help children begin practicing for enduro and off-road trials. Kids could start to learn by riding on on-road tracks, with the help of one of the 3 models in the series, Trial One, Motocross One and Supermotard One.

Torrot has recently upgraded all the models in the series, for even better performance, but with the same excellent safety and control features. All 3 electric motorbikes come with new LiMnCo batteries that are lighter, which makes them easier to remove and recharge. And, in terms of components, they are made with a chrome-molybdenum chassis, a hydraulic aluminum front fork from EBR and MITAS tires.

The Trial Two, Motocross Two and Supermotard Two have a maximum speed of 24.8 mph (40 kph), and the best part is that the Torrot electric engine comes with a programmable controller. The power can be programmed from 600W up to 1500W, which is perfect for progressive learning and also makes the riding experience much safer.

Parents can do more than just adjust the power, thanks to the company’s ingenious “Parental Control” system. By simply using the Torrot KIDS App on their phone, parents can remotely make sure that their little riders are safe. They can configure power levels, speed and throttle response, limiting them when it’s necessary and they can even disconnect the motorbike completely.

Trial Two is currently available for orders, with a $3,180 (€ 2,599) price tag, and the other 2 models can be pre-ordered, for the slightly higher price of $3,300 (€2,699).

by Cristina Mircea from https://www.autoevolution.com

Meet the Luna Racer Edition, Newest 3D-Printed Electric Motorcycle From Tarform.

There’s a new Luna in town. Brooklyn-based motorcycle manufacturer Tarform Motorcycles has announced a new version of its Luna electric motorcycle model. The Racer Edition will enter production this summer but you can preorder it now.

Tarform motorcycles might not have the most elegant and appealing design for everyone’s taste, but they compensate in other ways. The company aims to manufacture electric motorcycles that are modern in features, sustainable and upgradable, thanks to their modular design. Approximately 55 percent of the bike parts are 3D-printed using recycled materials such as recycled aluminium, biodegradable leather, flax fibers. You can upgrade pretty much anything on them, from the battery pack to the software and even body.

The Luna was announced in 2018 and it initially came in one version, called the Scrambled Edition. But things got delayed and the bike is still just a concept. Now the company announced a new version, the Cafe Racer Edition, and they are both available to preorder for the same price of $24,000. Tarform says they’ll both hit the market this summer.

There aren’t too many differences between the Scrambler and the Racer, as they both feature the same specs in terms of weight, battery, and motor. Both come with a 55 HP motor and 10 kWh battery pack. They both weigh 440 lb (200 kg).

Inspired by the British 60s, the Racer differs from the Scrambler mostly in terms of design. It features the Avon Sport ST street tires, comes with a slightly lower suspension and there are some lines on the battery box, which are missing from the Scrambler. The Racer also has black anodized bars, swingarm, indicators, and mirrors.

The Luna comes with a 3.4-inch HD display with Bluetooth, an HD 180-degree rearview camera, and three riding modes. It can reach speeds up to 120 mph (193 kph) and goes from 0 to 60 mph (96 kph) in 3.8 seconds. It has a range of 120 miles (193 km).

You can preorder the new Luna Racer Edition now on the Tarform website. The price of the bike is $24,000 and you can choose to pay in installments of $400 per month.

SEE VIDEO:

May 28th, 2021

Jim “Legs” Korte, former State Coordinator for ABATE of Illinois and member of the Motorcycle Riders Foundation Board of Directors, passed away on May 28th after a short illness. He was born April 27, 1950.

Legs was very passionate about motorcyclists’ rights and held numerous positions in many organizations. He was a big man and cut a wide swath everywhere he went, in everything he did.

He served his country honorably in the U.S. Navy where he was part of the Navy Honor Guard for four years and participated in the burial of several U.S. Presidents. It was actually while stationed in D.C. that he got a Triumph 650 and started riding.

After his military service, he returned to Trenton, Illinois to farm with his father Otto Korte. He also spent 30 years working for the Illinois State Police.

Legs was a gentle giant and made friends everywhere he went. He and his wife Paulette, a legend in the motorcycling community herself, have countless friends and extended family throughout the biker world nationwide that they enjoyed riding with and visiting.

In addition to his wife of 13 years, Legs is survived by his daughter Rachel Korte (Tommie), Paulette’s daughter Nikki Jarvis (Brian), four grown grand-children and a sister, Jane Weaver (Bob) in Connecticut. The family wishes for privacy at this time and we ask that you honor that request.

Legs leaves large shoes to be filled, figuratively and literally. His dry wit, common sense, upstanding character and the desire to always do the right thing will be greatly missed by all.

Ride in Peace Legs.

A memorial is tentatively planned for Saturday June 5th in Illinois.
In lieu of flowers, the family asks that donations be made to ABATE of Illinois, the Motorcycle Riders Foundation, or the MRF A&E to support the fight for motorcyclists’ rights.

by Daniel Patrascu from https://www.autoevolution.com

Germany Becomes Home of the 5,000th Ducati Multistrada V4

Zero to 5,000 in just six months. It is the achievement of Italian bike maker Ducati’s Multistrada V4, which in just half a year managed to convince 5,000 riders it is the right choice for them.

Ducati announced the milestone this week, with the 5,000th two-wheeler ever made in the family ordered by a German rider from Ingolstadt. The bike is a fully-loaded V4 S Sport and was accompanied in the rider’s garage by a “sculptural reproduction” of the bike and a “personal letter certifying the motorcycle’s serial number.”

The V4 was presented by the Italians in November last year, and it is currently available in three versions, the V4, V4S, and V4 S Sport, all described as the most advanced of their kind ever. The most potent of them all can easily go in the high $20,000s (exact pricing is available upon request at dealers).

At the core of the bikes sits the so-called Granturismo engine, a 1,158cc piece of hardware rated at a massive 170 hp at 10,500 rpm and a maximum torque of 125 Nm (92 lb-ft) at 8,750 rpm. The engine is lighter than the one that preceded it and tips the scale at 66.7 kg (147 pounds).

But it is not only the engine that makes the bike special. The V4 is presently the first production motorcycle equipped with both a front and a rear radar, working together with the Adaptive Cruise Control (AAC) technology.

Only a limited range of colors is available for the bike, going from the Ducati Red of the entry-level to the “particularly aggressive dedicated livery“ of the S Sport. This one also gets an Akrapovic exhaust and carbon front mudguard.

The exhaust system is made of stainless steel and was designed to bring the motorcycle’s weight down by 5 kg (11 pounds) and increase the engine’s power output to 174 hp and 133 Nm (98 lb-ft) of torque.

by Anusuya Lahiri from https://www.benzinga.com

Alternet Systems Electric Motorcycle Rideshare Program Parallels UN E-Boda-Boda Program for Kenya

Alternet Systems Inc emphasized the simultaneous U.N. E-Boda-Boda program with its Kenya rideshare electric motorcycle debut by July 2021.

The program will be conducive to the technological shift towards electric bikes. Alternet expects valuable information to enhance its electric motorcycle launch.

Alternet has an order to deliver 2000 electric motorcycles in Kenya for the motorcycle taxi (Boda) market.

Additionally, Alternet plans to introduce a self-drive rental program to hire electric motorcycles that can be unlocked via a mobile phone app.

Price action: Alternet shares traded higher.

RPM Act Reintroduced for 2021—Act Now! Save Our Racecars!

Our voices have been heard! After receiving more than one million letters from enthusiasts like you, the Recognizing the Protection of Motorsports Act (RPM Act) has been reintroduced in the U.S. House of Representatives in the 2021-2022 session of Congress!

The RPM Act must be enacted into law to guarantee your right to modify street cars, trucks, and motorcycles into dedicated race vehicles, and ensure that industry can offer parts that enable racers to compete.

Now is not the time to take our feet off the gas. Even if you’ve previously contacted your lawmakers about the RPM Act, we need your voice once again now that the bill has officially returned for consideration in 2021! Tell your U.S. Representative to do their part to finally save racing from government threat by supporting and passing the RPM Act into law this year.

PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SIGN THE LETTER TO CONGRESS.

Car accidents are scary, often traumatizing, events. Even after a small incident, you might feel overwhelmed and at a complete loss for how to continue. What do you do first?

Do you know how you would respond in a car accident situation? Were you in a car accident and are currently unsure how to proceed?

Take a deep breath, and then keep reading. Today, learn what to do after a car accident in this simple, step-by-step guide. Covering the key things that you should work through after an accident, this guide will help you to find your feet and keep things moving.

Step 1: Analyze The Scene

The first thing you want to do immediately following an accident is to check if everyone is safe. Exit your vehicle if possible, and turn on your emergency flashers. Call 911 right away if the incident is more than a minor fender bender so that emergency vehicles can get there quickly.

If you have flares, set these up so that other drivers can safely move around the crash. Turn on your hazard lights if possible.

Anyone injured at the scene should not be moved unless they are in danger by remaining in their vehicle or where they are located. Moving an injured individual could cause more harm, so get on the phone with 911 and follow their instructions to secure the scene until help arrives.

Step 2: Document The Scene

Once you have done your part to ensure that everyone is safe and that help is on the way, you will want to take a step back and begin to document the scene.

Here are some things that you should be doing to make sure you have the information needed to file an insurance claim:

• Take pictures of the vehicles before they are moved if possible
• Take photos of the scene of the incident
• Move the vehicles after photos are taken unless it is unsafe to do so
• Do not admit fault to the other party; express concern with admitting guilt
• Exchange contact info with other drivers there, including eyewitnesses
  • Make sure to get their name, address, phone number, insurance information, driver’s license info, and car information
• If cops are present, request the accident report number
• Take down the cops’ names and badge numbers as well
• Document any medical assistance that is provided to you at the scene

You will likely gather more information than you need, but it is always better to have more information rather than not enough. The goal of collecting this information is to prove exactly what happened in case you or another driver decides to pursue legal action following the incident.

Step 3: Call Your Car Insurance Company

You will want to call your insurance company to report the accident as soon as possible. Preferably, you will be the first one to report the incident.

You should call and report the incident even if the accident was minor or caused no apparent damages. This is just in case another party reports damages later on or if something comes up on your end after the fact. Not all consequences of an accident are immediately apparent. You want all accidents to be documented just in case.

When calling, give your car insurance company as many details of the accident as possible to start the claim process. They may inform you that they will be sending out insurance adjusted to do further assessment of the accident scene, and they may have a claims specialist contact you for more information.

Be cooperative and provide as much information as possible.

Step 4: Document Everything

As you move on from here, you’ll likely be doing the following:

1. Seeing a doctor for any injuries sustained from the accident.
2. Getting estimates done on your car for repairs.
3. Talking with police about any violations or the accident report.

Working through these things can be overwhelming, but it is all part of the process. Make sure that you document absolutely everything that happens throughout this. Keeping a journal which details what happens each day while also making copies of everything is a great idea.

Documentation may be necessary for proving your claim, getting the reimbursements you deserve, or otherwise handling the repercussions of the accident. The more you have on record, the better the outcome is likely to be.

Don’t be afraid to contact a qualified car accident lawyer if you feel that you cannot handle everything on your own. They will advise you on how to proceed, what you should do next, and what will be in your best interests. They also might be able to answer questions you have, like how long does a fender bender stay on your record if it wasn’t your fault?

You Can Handle This

It can be hard to know what to do after a car wreck, especially if you have never been involved in an accident before. Hopefully, today’s guide has shown you what you can do to make the entire process more manageable.

Remember that you can always ask for help. If you feel lost or overwhelmed, call your insurance company and ask them to guide you on the next steps. You can also request a friend or family member to get involved with helping you to work things out.

This can be particularly helpful if you were injured in the accident and have more important things, like your health, to focus on.

–Emila Smith