This chapter will contain lots of questions. I always wanted to be able to adjust the height or ground clearance, but that’s becoming more of an issue. So initially I would like to know if I can buy larger diameter front wheels, which I will research today.

Micah wants it as low as possible. “Less air to deal with going under it,” he says on a regular basis. I’ve looked at some of the fastest vehicles on the planet and they are slammed, so maybe he’s right.

On the other hand, Dennis Manning recommended allowing lots of ground clearance. “To allow the air to flow easily under and around the liner,” he told me. His liner, number 7, has amazing wind tunnel-tested aerodynamics. It’s proven to slip easily through the air.

We may not be looking at the full equation. If you’re a Land Speed Record fan, you know which vehicles are slammed. They are designed to be very flat on the bottom; we’re not. We are trying to be a sleek fish slipping through the air unobstructed. Dennis built his number 7 to look like a Salmon. We’ll see. In the meantime, I would like to research larger diameter wheels to give us more ground clearance. I don’t mind having two sets of wheels on the salt for testing purposes.

holy moly…. that is some trike…. sure, i would be glad to help…

We finally got the transmission PBI 1.060 offset sprocket lined up with a ½-inch sprocket spacer for an aligned rear chain. I’m going to ask Yelvington for a 1-inch longer set of rear shocks to see if we can raise the rear some.

It’s not so much an issue on the salt, but loading and riding this puppy around the block could be a serious issue if we only have 2 inches of ground clearance.

I won’t get into to cable mania just yet. The Salt Torpedo is sort of the ultimate artistic endeavor. It’s the ultimate custom trike. I bought the smallest available belly tank based on a few measurements, and we went for it. It’s working for the most part once we shrunk the pilot from me at 6’5” to Micah at about 5’8”. Then we faced the rear shocks, but so far, the driveline is not an issue, except maybe the carburetor and the exhaust system, which you will see.

Bassani was kind enough to supply us with a tight, two-into-one header system. Micah mounted it and made a transmission mounting bracket. I welded it and painted it, but I needed to know about the collector, and I reached out to Lee Clemens of Departure Bike Works in Richmond, Virginia. He had a 25-year top fuel drag bike team and worked extensively with one of the best tuners/engine builders in the industry, Giggy, who passed away after moving to California and working with Ben Kudon.

I sent him a photo to access the needed length and he immediately said, “That won’t do at all. You need to cut that collector off and put on a collector that’s a diameter twice the size of your pipe diameters.” They were almost 2 inches. I reached out to Tim at San Pedro muffler and took the system to him. In a hot flash, he made us just the system we needed with a turnout to push the exhaust outside the body.

Lee also pointed out that we needed to lose the S&S Super G for a D with several Thunder Jets. He constantly tells me about making top end speed over anything else. It takes a completely different formula. Lee may send me another carb. I switched from Carl’s massive Typhoon carb with one thunder jet to the G because of the lack of space and aerodynamics. Micah is comfortable with the G. We will see what happens next. More questions. As you will see, most of the exhaust system will be exposed, but I believe that’s okay.

Last weekend, I spent a lot of time mounting the coil, moving the regulator for more accessibility and mounting the Altmann electronic ignition system. Frankie came over and we spent a lot of time lifting the torpedo to remove the under-body to make fiberglass cuts and replacing it. We are getting damn close to actually mounting the body to the frame with Dzus fittings.

We finally received the cool rear shocks from Yelvington, so now the rear is suspended, but the front shocks still elude us. Yelvington is kind enough to make us custom shocks, but it’s a daunting process when you’re set up to make shocks a certain way and our configuration doesn’t fit in their manufacturing process. Plus, the team is jamming from show to show to build their business. We appreciate their efforts.

Paughco has bent over backwards to send us parts and pieces, including lots of bungs, which come in very handy and the gas tank, which is too cool.. I needed one specific bung for the front rubber-mounting alignment adjustable Heim joints.

We have only a few elements left before we can make fiberglass mods and ship the body to a paint shop. Gary Maur, from Kustom Fab in Detroit, coached me on fiberglass. My confidence is growing. Then we will tear this puppy down, finish welding it, spray-can the frame behind Dennis Manning’s recommendations not to powder coat it and start final assembly.

Okay, so hang on for the cable story. We are working with Barnett’s for our clutch and throttle cables. Both called for custom applications and 90-inch outer liners. No problem, and Ivan at Barnett’s has been very helpful. For some reason, I thought some of these other rule requirements would come with high-tech components, like electronic-activated solenoids, but not so fast.

The required Pingel remote shut-off fuel petcock must be closed from inside the cockpit. As it turns out, it is spring-loaded and cable activated. That’s not all. Our Shrouds parachute comes with a handy lever and a cable 12 feet long and get this: The massive fire-suppression extinguisher bottles are also cable-activated and we will have two of the massive bastards. All must be launched from inside the cockpit.

Okay, so we’re flying. And here’s the list for this week:

We need to consider a small dash with a tach, and a pushbutton for the starter which I ordered from Pingel. We need an on/off ignition switch, and Micah requested only a tach.

The FIM book requires front wheel fenders and I will reached out to Kent Riches. You saw his response above. I bought 50 pounds of lead shot and it arrived in canvas sacks. We are going to install it into the front sections of our frame before final welding takes place. Jeremiah came up with a way to capture the shot from slipping deeper into the frame. You’ll see more about CG or center of gravity in the news this coming week.

You’ll see that operation in the next episode. When we jump into that operation, the engine and trans will be out of the Torpedo and the frame will be upside down on the bench.

We were going to push in lead rods, but they were too spendy, almost a grand. We bought 50 pounds of shot for $122. I ordered a set of head-breathers for the JIMS 135-inch twin cam. A short velocity stack arrived this week and my grandson mounted it. Hang on for the next report.

Sponsors:

Jim’s Machine

Hot Rod Underground

Paughco

BDL

Strictly Hawgs

MetalSport Wheels

Custom Cycle Engineering

LowBrow

S&S

Bassini Exhausts

Twin Power

Lucky Devil Metal Works

A brother, Paul Davis, from back east started to send me shots of his hand engraving tool project. I thought it was his custom approach, but it was actually designed by Rick Alexander. Paul is interested in engraving, and since he’s retiring this year, from a 40-year stint in Harley dealerships as a mechanic, he wants to tinker.

Here’s Rick’s Youtube page:
https://www.youtube.com/user/ralex397

Paul was based on the east coast around the Charlotte, NC area, but for the last decade worked in a Chicago dealership and has always been a fan of performance. Okay, so his hand engraver is almost complete. He still needs to machine the piston for his tool and wire up the power system to the air compressor in the old ammo box design Rick suggested.

I asked him what the benefits were to this unit over Dremel tool. “Speed and better control,” Paul said, “Versus hand engraving with tools and a hammer.” He didn’t mention Dremels. “My opinion of course,” he said since he hasn’t tested his unit yet.

“This is the 50 cal. ammo box used to hold the compressor,” Paul said. “And the power supply, fan, motor speed controller, etc.”

https://youtu.be/LBsQF0Ud0Q4

“Hand piece is done,” Paul added. “Now have to make air piston & finish the tool holders.”

I’m going to share some of Rick’s videos, his complete web site, that includes other projects, Paul’s shots and some of the line drawings, blue prints and wiring schematics from Rick. This article is incomplete as it stands, but all the info to build one of these puppies is on Rick’s site.

“I will be working on it some this weekend,” Paul said. “I ordered the power supply & motor controller from EBay today.”

https://youtu.be/LBsQF0Ud0Q4

We may add shots to this article as Paul finishes his engraver and perhaps as he learns to engrave. Apparently this system is better than engraving by hand or with Dremel tools. Recently my grandson and I played with Dremel tools and engraving. He took to it like a puppy chasing a ball for the 100th time. It was amazing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GkdRqW1RyLs&feature=youtu.be

We have also included a fantastic engraving tech video by an amazing artist. He will take you through the whole process.

Hang on and enjoy the action:

“You need to build one for yourself,” Paul added. “I’m thinking of belt buckles!”

“Also started on the 12v compressor modifications,” Paul continued. Watch ‘How I built my Homemade Hand Engraving Machine Part 2 Modify 12v compressor’ on Rick’s YouTube.

https://youtu.be/8NY1GjkuYlI

“Will be working on it some this weekend,” Paul said.
“I ordered the power supply & motor controller from EBay today.”

https://youtu.be/LBsQF0Ud0Q4

This puppy is sort of involved, so hang on.

–Bandit

Editor’s Note: We are going to work with S&S, Baker, BDL, Compu-Fire and other Bikernet Sponsors, on their most asked tech questions. We’ll try to deliver the info you need access to. The following came from Howard Kelly, the former editor of HOT BIKE, and now an S&S tech editor.

“We take tech calls all day long here,” Howard said. “Most people have monkeyed withtheir carb so much they lose the baseline. Before we can do anything else,we have to get them back to a starting point so they can tune the carb totheir bike.These 10 simple steps make tuning an S&S Super E or G a breeze–on the roador in the garage.”

1-Verify carburetor is set to stock settings:
A. Idle Mixture Screw, 1 1/4 turns from lightly seated
B. Idle Speed Screw, ½ turn clockwise from engagement point
C. Accelerator Adjustment Screw, 2 turns counterclockwise from seated

1. Start bike, bring to operating temperature. Close enrichener as quickly as possible.

2. Set Idle Speed Adjusting Screw, clockwise to increase rpm, counter-clockwise to decrease rpm

3. Adjust air/fuel mixture by turning Idle Mixture Screw slowly clockwise until the engine runs poorly. Slowly turn the screw counter-clockwise until it runs smoothly—if you go too far the engine will start to stumble.

4. With engine idling, turn Accelerator Adjustment Screw clockwise until it lightly seats. Snap throttle open—engine should stumble. Turn screw counter-clockwise ¼ or ½ of a turn at a time, until engine responds to throttle twist with smooth, quick response.

5. Ride motorcycle in various RPM ranges, and then try to maintain a consistent 40- to 50-mph. If the engine is popping or sneezing in the air cleaner it can indicate a lean condition. If you notice stumbling or sputtering it can indicate a rich condition

6. Replace Intermediate Jet as necessary—smaller is leaner, larger is richer. Adjust Idle Mixture Screw and Idle Speed Screw as required.

7.To test the Main Jet, do a high gear roll-on from 50-mph to 70-mph. If the engine back fires or breaks up in the carb, increase the Main Jet size .004”. If the engine is flat or will not accelerate, decrease the Main Jet by .004”.

8. After changing the jets, test ride the motorcycle. Continue re-jetting and adjustmenting until optimum performance is achieved.

Note: Drag or straight pipes can prevent you from obtaining optimum carburetor performance.

Howard Kelly
S&S Cycle Inc.
235 Causeway Blvd.
La Crosse WI 54650
(608) 627-0284

My motorcycle prior to the lighting change.

I ride a lot at night and many times on roads that are not well lighted. Through the years, I have tried numerous lighting improvements, many of which I first became aware of through their use on other vehicles such as cars and trucks.

Passing lamp with a performance bulb.

Passing lamp with a stock bulb.

I have been using performance bulbs in my passing lamps, and though it was an improvement, it still left a lot to be desired. As a matter of fact one failed in a short period of time and I replaced it with the stock one until I could get another.
That’s when I found out that Truck-lite had come out with a 4.5-inch LED lamp for the passing lamps. Since I was so pleased with the previous light from them I bought a set.

LED packaging from an auto-parts store.

Like its big brother the lamp produces a white light closer to the color of daylight and greatly improves visibility. I should note the LEDs are bulb free and are solid state and encapsulated in a hardened epoxy, to resist damage from shock and vibration resulting in up to 50x longer life than incandescent lamps—amazing.

Description on the back of the box.

Back of Truck Lite passing or spot lamp insert.

The lamp is part number 80275 and you can find out more about it and all their other products by going to: http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/GenericView?storeId=10001&langId=-1&pageName=/home.jsp

Stock insert removed.

Stock lighting connector.

On the upper right corner of the link you can find a dealer near you. The lights are also starting to appear with motorcycle distributors. Do some shopping around. You can save a lot of money over some of the lighting prices being offered by other sources.

New Truck Lites installed–simple.

These bulbs really work, and since I see better, of course I ride faster and safer because of them. I live to ride fast, don’t ya know.

–ROGUE

Can you see us now, Rogue?

My friend Wayne just bought a 2013 Harley Davidson Tri-Glide and was complaining it needed some more power to get down the highway. Even with the 103 CI Twin Cam engine that is not surprising because of the weight of the motorcycle.

We decided to go with a Zip Kit package from Zipper Performance that included an exhaust header (he already had screaming eagle mufflers), high flow air cleaner and ThunderMax tuner. The ThunderMax also allows you to download new maps in the future should you do any other performance upgrades.

The exhaust is a Dual Header System from Khrome Werks. The “True Dual” is made of 1 3Ž4 16 gauge material and comes with full coverage heat shields. It is designed for maximum top end power and improved low end torque with balanced flow.

 I started off by removing the stock exhaust system. This is basically starting at the back removing the mufflers and moving forward until all parts were removed. This procedure is covered in the Harley Manual and also with the instructions that comes with the new exhaust.

I then replaced the exhaust gaskets using JIMS tool number 788. It makes the install quick and easy.

 The exhaust comes with both 12 & 18MM bungs installed. I would be using the 18 MM O2 sensors from ThunderMax so I installed the 12mm plugs. In the next step I varied slightly from factory supplied instructions by installing the exhaust system and then the O2 sensors because it was easier for me.

The header system is installed by inserting the front pipe into the exhaust port and then the rear by using a strong pull to seat it. Once in position the flanges were installed on the studs, neversieze was used on the studs and the saved 5/16-24 flange nuts installed. The nuts were Snugged but Not Tightened at this time. The O2 Sensors come with neversieze on the threads and I installed them.  Note; Do not over tighten because once you have run the motorcycle, heat from the exhaust will make them tighter and could be a problem if they ever have to be removed.

 After the header was installed Neversieze was applied to all exhaust pipe connections and the cross over installed followed by pipe extensions (because it is a trike) and then the mufflers. There are detailed instructions that should be followed while doing this. After the exhaust is in place follow the enclosed tightening instructions. The complete installation instructions can be found at

http://www.khromewerks.com/PDF%20Files/Instructions/High%20Performance%20Exhaust/200650A.pdf

Now that the exhaust was installed I removed the air cleaner cover, element and plastic backing plate. I retained the cover mounting screw, 2 breather bolts and “S” shaped hoses.

I used Blue Loctite on the original breather bolts inserted them through the supplied spacer and tightened them securely.

Next I installed the “S” shaped hoses through the new backing plate and chrome caps. Using Blue Loctite on the threads of the stanchions I installed the bottom one through the new backing plate and gasket and into the throttle body then pushed the hoses over the nipples of the breather bolts followed by the chrome caps. I then installed the two other stanchions and tightened to 85 inch pounds in sequence, repeating this a couple of times to seat the gasket and then went to 90 inch pounds for a final torque.

Next the filter element was lined up with the stanchions and the screws provided installed after a small amount of Blue Loctite was applied to the threads.

While I was doing the above I had added some silicone to the air cleaner cover gasket, installed it, and laid it on a flat surface with some weight on the cover to let it set up. Now that it had I added some silicone to one side of the thick supplied washer that was to be used as a spacer. Though some people use Blue Loctite on the cover screw I prefer to use Liquid Teflon. Putting the bolt through the cover and placing the spacer over it with the silicone side towards the filter element the cover was lined up and tightened in place.

Detailed instructions can be found at http://www.zippersperformance.com/pdf/117-448,%20117-449%20%20Air%20Filter.pdf

 The next step was installing the ThunderMax. Remove the side cover and the main fuse, followed by the seat. The factory ECM is held in place by plastic caddy latches, simply pull back on them and remove the unit. Holding it firmly remove the lock and slide the release lever to remove the wiring harness from the ECM. This is covered in detail in the supplied instructions and they should be followed carefully.

I routed the front sensor wire across the front brace and then along the right side frame rail making sure it did not touch anything. The rear wire was routed between the transmission cover and the starter and then to the ABS caddy located on the right side of the motorcycle.

I lubed the communication and Auto Tune cables with dielectric grease and installed them into the ThunderMax ECM making sure they were fully seated and then secured them.

The ThunderMax was then installed into the caddy and the other wires greased and joined. I then double checked the wire routing and secured it to the frame with wire ties. I then re-installed the main fuse, the warning sticker about removing the battery in the future and then the seat.

Since I had purchased the unit directly from Zippers it came pre-programmed and I started the motorcycle. I let it warm up, shut it off and then repeated the procedure. I was happy with it so I reinstalled the side cover and took it for a ride. OH YEA!!! A Major Difference and it would get even better as Wayne rode it. He has since gotten back to me and has recommended it to some of his other trike riding friends.

For those who purchase the kit or the ThunderMax from other sources it does come with detailed instructions on how to install the proper map. If you have any issues there is an excellent support staff available to help.

Detailed install instructions for the ThunderMax can be found at http://www.zippersperformance.com/media/wysiwyg/DownloadsPDFs/ThunderMaxInstructions/309-362_Installation_V2012.06.28.pdf

For more information on this and other fine products for you motorcycle Zippers web site is. http://www.zippersperformance.com/

Eric Bennett and his dad, Bob, longtime racers, performing Dyno Pulls with the Balls Out Racing monster V-Twin at Bennett’s Performance. Almost 200 horsepower.

Bad Brad, a martial arts Sifu, and the previous owner of the San Pedro Kick Boxing School recently bought a ’98 King from the Billet King. He still owns his 1964 Panhead, for 40 years. The Road King was clean as a whistle, and had an air system to lower the rear shocks, but the front end bottomed out and we looked at options with Progressive Suspension.

Brad wanted the keep a lowered look and took the bike to Bennett’s Performance for a service and to evaluate the handling. As it turned out the systems inside the stock 41mm glide legs were original, with the exception of two air lines running to the fork tube caps. Plus the preload was minimal, so the Bennett’s tech Gabe Vidrio went to work investigating the malady, while I reached out to David Zemla at Progressive Suspension.

Gabe Vidrio Bennett’s Performance tech for 1.5 years, hard worker.

After some long discussions between Brad and Eric Bennett, we decided to install a stock length Progressive spring system. “They don’t handle well lowered,” Eric said.

I’m still trying to understand this Progressive system for lowering glide front ends. According to the Progressive literature with a lowering system in place the front end will not compress anymore than stock. The main spring is the same length as stock, and the only change is the addition of a 1-inch spring under the dampening rod on the opposite side of the main spring.

Here’s the info from the Progressive Suspension installation instructions regarding lowering:

The installation of a fork lowering kit does not affect the compressed length of the fork. However, we have found that some motorcycles may not have adequate clearance between the fender, fairing and/or accessories.

To achieve a two inch (2″) lowered height, leave the stock top out spring on the damper rod and install two Progressive Suspension top out springs on the damper rod with the stock top out spring.

Let’s Get Started:

We went with the stock system, and I followed Gabe as he rebuilt the legs with the Progressive Suspension components, new seals, and fluids. Here are the Progressive instructions with comments from me and Gabe.

Read all the instructions carefully before installing this kit on your motorcycle. Use your factory authorized manual as a reference while installing this kit.

Support and lift the motorcycle securely so the front wheel is off the ground. The balance point is toward the front of the engine.

Remove forks according to instructions contained in your factory authorized shop manual. It’s always handy to have a shop manual handy, and you might want to disconnect the battery.

For maximum performance we highly recommend that the forks be disassembled, thoroughly cleaned, and inspected. When installing

Changing the volume or viscosity of the oil is not recommended and could cause damage and/or loss of control.

The Progressive Suspension Monotube cartridge fork kit is a direct replacement of your stock internal fork components. In our case we just replaced the springs with Progressive units.

However the procedure on the left fork (stock cartridge) for the 02-05 FLHT/FLT varies
from the damper rod type forks. If installing this kit on one of these models, note the variance.

After removing both forks, start with one of the forks and remove the fork cap, then remove the fork spring.

JIMS makes an outstanding socket for installing and removing the internal cap.

CAUTION The fork cap is under spring pressure depending on the pre-load and care must be taken as it is removed to avoid injury! Keep downward pressure on the cap as you unscrew the final threads, this will minimize the spring “jump” that will occur as soon as the cap is fully un-threaded.

Drain the fork oil, and then with the fork completely compressed remove the damper rod & top-out spring by removing the bolt in the bottom of the fork. Keep the fork assembly fully compressed at this point to keep bottoming cup properly located.

It’s very important to clean the bottom of this cup and the inside bottom of the fork leg for a solid, leak-free, seal.

Put the stock damper spring onto the stock cartridge.

Put a drop of red thread-locking agent on the bolt that came out of the bottom of the fork and reinstall it, tightening it the bolt to the factory recommended specification of 11-18 ft. lbs

Repeat the process on the other fork and proceed to “Both Forks”section of instructions – unless you’re installing this kit on a 02-05 FLHT/FLT, then proceed to next step for left fork.

 Reinstall the supplied bottoming cup (with the cup facing up) into the outer fork slider and carefully insert the inner fork tube back into the
outer slider.

Maintain the orientation of the bottoming cup while doing this – the bottoming cup must seat in the outer slider as the stock cup did. Once seated, keep the assembly compressed to maintain it’s position during assembly.

Per you factory authorized manual reinstall the fork seal using a proper JIMS fork seal driver tool, and then reinstall the fork seal retaining clip.

The JIMS tool sliding up and down to tap the seal into place.

Install the supplied Progressive Suspension top-out spring as shown onto the stock monotube assembly, with the supplied washer and then Gabe reviewed the instructions for cutting and setting the preload. Progressive recommended 1.5-inch preload spacer which he cut, but was unhappy with. The original preload spacer was 5/8-inch and the forks bottomed out. He cut it down to 1 1/8 inch, compressed the front end and was pleased with the results.

Pour 5 ounces of 10 wt. fluid in each fork, pausing to stroke the assembly to get the fluid into the outer fork slider

Failure to do this will cause the required amount of fluid to overflow.This fluid is just to lubricate moving parts and has no effect on the actual damping
action of the sealed Monotube cartridge fork insert.

This is another JIMS tool, designed to check the exact measurement of fluid in the fork leg and withdraw any excess.

Once the proper amount of fluid is in the fork assembly, slide the inner
fork tube up and install the supplied fork cap. Torque the cap the factory recommended specification of 50-60 ft. lbs. Gabe used a very special JIMS socket for this operation.

Reinstall the forks and all other components on the motorcycle per your factory authorized manual being sure to double check all fasteners for proper torque per said manual

Technical info: Our technical staff will assist you if you have any problems or questions. Call (714) 523-8700 from 8 am to 4 PM Pacific time.

“To compliment your suspension,” said David Zemla the doctor of Progressive Suspension, “we recommend installing a pair of our 412 Series Gas Shocks, 430 shocks, 440 Series IAS Shocks, or the Progressive 970 shocks. Check them out.”

There you have it. We disconnected the air system from his front end, and David Zemla recommended to plug the caps. Brad’s King is back on the road.

TECH FLASH: JIMS VACUUM FED FORK FILLING TOOL–
“This Year’s Time Saver”

Changing the fork fluid on models with fairings can be intimidating and take hours. This patent pending tool will eliminate the need to remove the fairings on all touring bikes to change the fork oil; it’s like magic. With this tool it should take about 30 minutes to perform the service compared to 2.2 hours without it.

Use on all common damper tube type fork assemblies, this tool is not for use on motorcycles using cartridge type forks or inverted fork assemblies. This tool is designed for use in conjunction with a Mityvac tool No. 741, which is available separately.

For more information contact us at sales@jimsusa.com, visit www.jimsusa.com, or call 805-482-6913.

SOURCES

Bennett’s Performance

Progressive Suspension

Click on the image for info quick.

Throttle-by-wire replaces throttle cables with an electrically wired or electronic position sensor at the throttle handgrip.

To take on the entire concept of how throttle-by-wire (TBW; used here throughout for simplicity) is used in every type of transportation technology is to exceed the scope of what can be covered here, but there is much that can be discussed about the positives and negatives of using such a system in Trikes. Here, we’ll touch upon some reasons why using electronic throttle control systems in Trikes should be examined on its own merits as compared to its being used in almost any other mode of transportation. The intention of this article is provoking an open a dialog about the use of technology and not an endorsement or indictment of the role electronics serve on our Trikes.

As most know, throttle-by-wire replaces throttle cables with an electrically wired or electronic position sensor at the throttle handgrip that transmits a signal to a motor controlling the opening and closing of throttle plate(s) (butterfly). Some newer and “high-end” motorcycles and Trikes, such as the new touring BMW 1600GT and GTL and Can-Am Spyder, also integrate throttle control with traction control, anti-lock brakes (ABS) and many other facets of engine and ride control management. Since 2008, Harley-Davidson’s Touring models and all of its modern Trikes employed the cableless throttle mechanism.

So, to establish why the use of TBW and ride control systems might be viewed differently when these systems are used on Trikes, let’s start with the very basic differences between riding a Trikeand driving an automobile:

• The extra wheel on a car provides increased stability and tip-over protection

• Cars rely very little on the gyroscopic effect of rotating wheels for stability.

• Cars do not roll as much going into turns.

• There is a much greater level of physical protection while driving a car than when riding a Trike.

First, it should be established that some electronically controlled systems used in Trikes are considered worthwhile by most riders and Trike authorities. Fuel injection systems on Trikes are a great benefit: the fuel is dynamically adjusted for altitude, air pressure, ambient and engine temperature, resulting in smoother throttle response, better drivability and greater fuel efficiency. It also requires the use of a fuel gauge, or at a minimum a low-fuel light, giving the rider an objective indication of when they are low on fuel. There can even be an argument made for safety here as reaching down to change over the petcock to reserve can often be a tricky situation. How many times has your Trike sputtered making a turn in traffic and you had frantically tried keeping the Trike controlled as it bucked and surged while you tried not to get rear-ended?

Where potential problems begin is in using a system where dynamic control of the Trike (or any vehicle for that matter) is modifies and controlled by an intermediate controlling system not in direct control of the rider. Some anomalies in TBW systems have already been noted by motorcycle publications while testing bikes that incorporate TBW and an Internet search turns up some very interesting, and potentially alarming characteristics regarding these systems. For example, here’s the first paragraph of a review of the 2011 BMW S1000RR written by John Acton in February 2010: “Coming out of the long right-hand turn nine at Palm Beach International Raceway, BMW’s new S1000RR did something unexpected. Despite having the throttle pinned wide-open, the bike didn’t want to accelerate. It wasn’t until the lean angle came within 45 degrees from vertical that a blast of horsepower from the Bavarian bullet lifted the front wheel about a foot off the asphalt and hurled the bike down the 0.6-mile straightaway.”

Even a cursory read of the first paragraph of this review raises some obvious red flags. First, Mr. Acton says that the motorcycle, “did something unexpected;” that the bike “didn’t want to accelerate,” and third, “it wasn’t until the lean angle came within 45 degrees…that a blast of horsepower…lifted the front wheel about a foot off the asphalt and hurled the bike down the 0.6 mile straightaway.” The entire opening paragraph outlines a series of occurrences where the rider was not in control of the bike! Not just one hiccup, but a list of events in a high-speed situation that were not in rider control, and it actually surprised him, as Mr. Acton describes it. What is missing from that paragraph however is the BMW was set up for the racetrack and running in “Slick” mode used for racing situations. With a less experienced rider that could be a scary and dangerous scenario.

Extending the logic here, how often does your Trike “do something unexpected?” Except in a malfunction, when was the last time you twisted the throttle and “the Trike didn’t want to accelerate?” Alternatively, how about the engine producing a “blast of horsepower” that unexpectedly lifted your front wheel off the ground?

Without intending to single out BMW motorcycles, the problem is obvious: an engine control system that can apparently usurp operator intent, and possibly initiate a series of events that could cause unexpected alteration of a rider’s control of the machine. This could occur at a time when the rider must fully rely on the physics of how the machine will behave and the expectation of how it will respond at a very critical control point. The expression “that could never happen” is often used to assure the public, and everybody knows how it usually turns out. Our computers and all other electronic gadgets we use every day were tested not to crash in a controlled environment, yet we all know that certain combinations of factors can and do cause malfunctions and quirky behavior. Even something as simple as the tried and true cable operated carb or throttle body has a safety factor built into it. In fact, the extra cable on push-pull throttle-cable systems was a safety measure employed to be able to close the butterfly in case of cable or other malfunction in the carb.

Ask the people who have experienced unintended acceleration in their cars what they think when a corporate spokesperson says, “it can’t happen.” Moreover, in case you think these are isolated incidents, according to a Consumer Reports article from December 2009, fifty-two unintended acceleration complaints were reported to the National Highway Transportation Safety Administration (NHTSA) about Toyota products (Toyota and Infinity) and 36 complaints were lodged about Ford products produced in the 2007-2008 model year. While these occurrences took place in automobiles, an excerpt from article about TBW used in motorcycles from the Bosch (manufacturer of many TBW and other electronic technologies) website is of particular interest: “Thanks to the use of fully-electronic engine control systems, motorcyclists (Trikers) now have complete control over their machines, too. To do this, existing automotive systems were adapted to motorbikes within the framework of our drive-by-wire motorcycle study. The first road-capable prototype is an Aprilia RSV1000 R. In selecting the components, we rely on Bosch components from the automotive sector, which are thus now available for the motorcycle market. The development of the electronically controlled throttle valve for motorbikes is yet another example of customer-specific, individual system adaptations of Bosch components for which Bosch Engineering GmbH is internationally known.”

(www.bosch-engineering.de/en/boschengineeringgmbh/newsspecials/drive_by_wire.aspx or click HERE)

Therefore, what Bosch is saying here is that motorcycle “fully electronic control systems” are adapted from automotive systems. It is logical then to consider that any potential hardware failures and software programming errors that by some accounts have already occurred in automotive systems could also be potential problems in motorcycle and Trike systems.

Let’s examine another important point: the anomalies in the S1000RR engine management system that Mr. Acton described were not malfunctions. The loss of throttle control, the inability to accelerate when the bike was leaned, and the (unexpected) surge of power when the bike was partially righted is apparently how the electronic engine and traction control management system for this bike are designed and programmed to work under those conditions. Oddly, in the review of the S1000RR, Mr. Acton did not seem alarmed by this situation where control of the bike was apparently out of his hands, and he generally gave the bike a favorable review. Racers seem to love the technology since these systems produce faster and better times on the track without the rider actually becoming, well, a better rider through increased skills.

So here, we have an example of an anomaly in the electronic engine control system when the bike is functioning properly. How about what happens when things do malfunction?

In some recent discussions with David Hough (author of the Proficient Motorcycling book series) on the issue of throttle control and electronic engine management, he relayed a situation where a Can-Am Spyder (with TBW) had a reoccurring drivability problem: “I had some…electronic issues, one being that the engine would suddenly go into limp home mode after hours on the freeway. I found that shutting off the main switch for a period of time would…allow the system to reboot, and then it would start and run normally. The error message on the dash showed “check DPS computer.” DPS is Dynamic Power Steering—sort of a “mother” computer, and if a fault in any of the other systems occurred, the DPS computer would signal the Engine Management Computer to initiate a loss of power…I [later] discovered that the leaf spring on the brake pedal was not giving the appropriate “brake off” signal to the DPS computer. I did a little adjusting with needle nose pliers, and solved the limp home problem.”

As many know, “limp home” mode is where an engine management system will limit speed and acceleration in order to prevent engine damage when a problem occurs. Many of our Trikes have this feature. However, in this case, the limp home mode erroneously activated on a freeway when the problem apparently had nothing to do with an engine malfunction. Here is a case where an electronic override system caused the Trike (with a Rotax motorcycle engine used by many manufacturers) to suddenly slow down on a freeway while other traffic around the vehicle would normally be maintaining highway speeds. While this scenario might make sense if the limp home mode had been activated due to an engine problem, should it have been caused by a simple mechanical problem with a brake signal switch? Most would probably argue no. Broken, chafed or worn out wires are not the exception on a well-ridden Trike- it will happen and what can happen as a result is not as predictable like older machines.

This next part is for all of us to consider and think about. David goes on to say: “I’m not so concerned about complex systems when they are brand new. I’m more concerned about maintainability. What happens to the high-zoot electronic system 5 years down the road, or longer?…The owner who has all of his maintenance and repair[s] done at the dealer’s shop will buy a brand that has a nearby dealer, and be clever enough to trade it in as the warrantee expires. But for owners such as myself, who…do our own servicing and repair, there is a practical limit to how complex a machine can be.”

As David points out, what happens to ridability of the Trike when a totally integrated throttle/traction control/braking system experiences failures or components wear out? The increasingly higher levels of technology may start to yield diminishing returns when the engineering that goes into them gets so complex that a machine can no longer be reasonably maintained by an owner, and very high expense is necessary for their repair. Have you had your Trike in the shop for repairs lately? Even the simplest maintenance procedures performed in a Trike repair shop often yield an expensive bill. Try to imagine the bill when electronic engine management components begin to fail and all problems diagnosed and repaired at a dealership. Having to trade-in a Trike before the warranty period expires is an option that most currently typically cannot afford, or even want, to make.

Perhaps a “simpler” TBW system that is not part of an overall engine management system may not be significantly more complicated in principal than throttle cables, but there are some notable differences: finding the source of a cable problem will usually only require visual inspection, maybe getting the Trike back to your garage and removing the fuel tank or body panels to locate a cable restriction or to lubricate a cable or to replace a broken one. Repairing an electronically controlled throttle system would typically require troubleshooting knowledge that exceeds that of a typical DIY mechanic and the use of diagnostic equipment that most will not own or even know how to use.

So how much more will the costs be to repair the higher level of complexity of systems that incorporate TBW, traction control and braking into an engine management system? How much of an effect on the ability to continue to operate the Trike and even the safety of the rider if a failure of even one of the systems occur? As these systems are still relatively new, the jury will be out for some time.

Of course, it is understood that a tremendous amount of R&D goes into getting these systems to be useable, functional, reliable and safe, and that in the vast majority of riding circumstances, riders will find the increased options for choice of ride type, handling and braking capability will take Trike riding to new levels of comfort and convenience. While in the majority of situations the computer will choose the best combination of handling characteristics in a given riding situation, some of the reviews and reports indicate that this may not always be the case. David Hough’s experience with his Spyder going into limp mode due to a simple mechanical problem is one example; John Acton’s description of the BMW’s behavior is another.

There are also discussions posted on several Harley-Davidson owner group sites concerning idle variation problems on TBW-equipped Baggers/Trikes, most notably V-TwinForum.com and HDForums.com, with the latter having a link to a service bulletin released by Harley-Davidson referring to a TBW problem. Several posts say that the throttle control problems occurred while the machines were being ridden, rather than just at idle.

We experienced firsthand one such case where the loss of throttle control (albeit a two-wheeler, but the exact same system employed on the Trikes) resulted in an extremely dangerous situation. Quick thinking and luck proved to avoid disaster. While riding a new 2009 CVO Road Glide with less than 2,000 miles on the clock the TBW system did something that “can’t happen.” While riding on a four-lane freeway packed with loaded 18-wheelers blazing out of the Port of Long Beach and commuters buzzing along bumper to bumper at 80 mph the Glide lost the throttle. Being in the left lane with no shoulder and a 6-foot tall retaining wall to the side this was no place to experience a malfunction. At first, the bike hiccupped and continued running when suddenly all propulsion was gone, coasting at this point with the car behind thankfully slowing to avoid the unexpected slow down. . There weren’t any pull over options. Not knowing what was happening we tried pulling in the clutch, as a broken belt was the first thought of the symptom experienced. With the clutch disengaged, we noticed the engine dropped to idle, the opposite of what would be expected under those conditions. Twisting the throttle had zero effect on RPM. Frantically waving our left arm to try to get to tjhe shoulder we began moving rightward and the bike surged as the throttle/throttle body/computer kicked back into action. That was another potentially disastrous situation as we were attempting to get over while trying to convince and alert drivers we had a problem. For the next 15 seconds or so the bike’s brain went into and out of consciousness. Making the side of the road the bike was now idling and the throttle had no effect on the motor. The police showed up to get us out of the situation- either call a tow truck or get moving was the order. We shut the motor down and the bike’s power- restarted and still nothing. A few attempts at this and the throttle came back on line. 100 yards down the shoulder and the throttle went out again. An off-ramp a mile down the road was the target and after a few of these start stop conditions the bike made it off the freeway and died at the top of the ramp. It wouldn’t start. Pushing the bike off the ramp and into a safer place, we removed the seat, figuring it was an electrical problem began poking and prodding the wires under the seat. Nothing. We just wanted to get home and not have to get this brand new bike scratched or damaged from towing. As nothing was helping and the bike was still dead, the gentle discovery of the problem was replaced by anger and we pulled on every harness we could find. The bike fired up and ran well for the 10-mile ride home on surface streets. Just as we turned into the driveway the bike completely died, barely avoided dropping it as it lost power midturn, and coasted to the garage. A Harley-Davidson technician picked the bike up and noticed the computer’s memory had “a lot” of fault codes due to malfunctions in the system. The bike was hauled away and returned a few days later “fixed.”

Us: “So, what was the problem?”

Them: “Nothing. We didn’t find any problems.”

Us: “What does that mean? The bike had a mind of its own and you couldn’t get it to start when you picked it up.”

Them: “We took the fairing off to have a look around and found nothing wrong, so we put it back together and the bike ran fine.”

Us: “What about all the fault codes?”

Them: “They had nothing to do with the bike not starting or any problem with the throttle and apparently showed up because the system went crazy.”

“Us: “That’s it? Nothing’s wrong and you found nothing, yet the throttle didn’t work and then the starter wouldn’t turn over? And now it’s fine?”

Them: “We couldn’t find anything that would cause that problem. Just ride it and let us know if there are any other problems.”

We never did have another problem with that bike; it ran perfectly. What was it? A computer virus, solar radiation, gremlins, a bug in the software that Harley didn’t admit to? Whatever it was, it wasn’t normal, it was a bone stock machine with nothing added on to it and everything wasn’t alright. Quick thinking, skill and a little luck were all that prevented this “nothing’s wrong” scenario from being catastrophic.

Further, in the cases of claimed unintended acceleration in automobiles, throttle and engine management computers may have no direct “cause and affect” as to how they may operate should a control system get an errant control input. On older bikes and Trikes, a shorted or broken wire produced easily identifiable consequences. That TBW uses an electronic signal rather than cables, a system malfunction could conceivably result in a variety of unexpected control problems, simply because triggering an electrical short, open circuit, or component failure could cause an electronic hardware problem, a software error or both. A Trikemay accelerate, go to idle, shut off, go into limp home mode—any of a number of unexpected behaviors based on a wrong signal in an electronic engine management system. Furthermore, fixing the short or ground situation on the side of the road doesn’t always fix the problem. Computers may need to have codes cleared, be updated or rebooted.

Conclusion

In the engineering field, there is a concept known as “elegance.” It refers to the idea that the more you strive to keep electronic systems and their software programming simple, the less likely that bugs or unintended outcomes will result. The idea of keeping Trike control systems simple is worth considering for this reason. Consider also that following the “KISS” principle here may also be a good idea due to the lower level of physical protection for the rider of a Trike, as opposed to a car. There is a logical connection between these two thoughts: if a throttle system were to malfunction causing unintended de- or acceleration, a resulting accident would certainly have a greater potential for serious physical injury on a Trike than in a car.

Technology with a proven track record of decades in use are logical additions to Trikes, and while electronic fuel injection is more complicated than a carburetor, you get a lot for the tradeoff for the relatively small increase in complexity. 

Some thoughts to ponder: Will there be high-mileage TBW Trikesstill around and usable in 20 years? 30 or 40? Will the cost of repair exceed the value, as is the case with the current “buy it, drive it, junk it philosophy” of many automobiles. Planned obsolescence as it’s called; it’s seemingly designed into everything these days. How many of you early H-D EFI owners junked a perfectly good Trike because of the Magneti-Marelli manufactured throttle body? Even when in optimal shape that system was mediocre at best for its given application and miles just made it worse, wearing out parts that can’t be fixed, leading to a Trike that cannot run correctly. There are upgrades and solutions but all cost in the thousands of dollars. The decision is then, junk it or dump a boatload of cash into it that may equal the value of the Trike?

Please share your thoughts on this with us. Have you had any odd experiences or lack of control from a TBW system or expensive repairs? We’ll share your responses and opinions right here.

We’d like to thank Aaron Frank of Motorcyclist magazine (motorcyclistonline.com) for input and discussions relating to TBW and this article.

As part of our continuing effort to bring readers the information they need, we’ll be answering trike-related technical questions on an ongoing basis. Please email your questions to TRN Editor Genevieve Schmitt at info@trikeridersnow.com or post them below in the comments section. If we can’t answer a question, we’ll find an expert who can. Stay tuned for regular updates to this section.    

Q: Can you recommend a front tire for my 2005 Harley-Davidson Road Glide Roadsmith conversion?