It’s not always the model of bike being restored, but the restoration process that shines. That’s the case with this scooter. This 1921 two-stroke Cleveland wasn’t the fastest, rarest, or most unusual bike of its era. It was a slow utilitarian, base-model, but Jim Watson restored every element of this machine until it was awarded 99 points, and he fought over that final point. “It’s the only mosquito fogger in the world with a seniors badge from the Antique Motorcycle Association of America,” said Don Whalen, antique motorcycle curator.
Don works with motorcycle museums and collectors all over the world, often running from one end of the country to the other to buy, sell or deliver rare antiques. He helped build a San Jose collection until it contained 67 examples of American motorcycle manufacturers, out of 200 motorcycle companies of the era. “This level of restoration demands attention,” Don said, “not for being a rare model, but because of the extremely high level of refinement. Some reconditioned motorcycles are refined beyond factory specifications. A classic of this level draws attention and higher prices.”
Jim bought this 13-1/2″ 270cc Cleveland moped on steroids from the original owner, a Texas schoolteacher who rode the bike to work every day. It was the cheapest way to get around, although it smoked like a freight train. “It used as much oil as gas,” Don said.
The level of quality control was extremely high during the internal-combustion growth era, until the Depression killed it. In 1929, Cleveland built a four-valve F-head with a vented crankcase, precision-ground valves called the Century, after building a T-head 45″ Fowler in-line four. On the case of each F-head, the company tagged it with the bike’s top speed. They guaranteed that every 1000 cc, 20 brake HP would exceed 100 mph.
During the extensive, decade-long restoration period, Jim created, “the best cheap Cleveland in the world,” according to Don. The toy of a motorcycle sold for $120, and had limited suspension, since it was the bread and butter Cleveland model. “It was real basic,” Don says. “You could adjust the throttle and the choke, but there was no timing advance, and no lights on the stock model.” Cleveland sold 5,000 of the 13″ two-strokes every year from 1915-1925, in the States and abroad. The company lasted until it built 1000cc models. Chandler motorcycles, and Cleveland in-line fours, were released in 1925, but only a few sold. L.E. Fowler also designed this two-stroke model.
This feature actually affords us the opportunity to discuss over-restored motorcycles. So what makes a bike restored to the level of an art object? There's innumerable elements, such as engine turning engine cases, that were never engine turned at the factory. Even polishing engine components was rare, except in the Pierce Arrow factory. Additional pinstriping that wasn't part of the factory paint process, such as frame rails wasn't stock, but adds detail. The custom world influences the restoration side with extra nickel plating, chrome, polished brass components and five layers of hand-rubbed laquer.
“It all depends on what an owner has in mind for his restoration project,” Don said. “If he wants to compete in concourse antique shows, he should stick with stock, but if he wants to ride it and show it as an art object, skies the limit.” Some builders use powder-coated components for a lasting protective finish. Some order paint schemes never applied to factory models. Chromed spokes are not acceptable to judges. “But they now allow bead-blasted stainless spokes for a cadium-like finish,” Don said. If an owner plans to ride his bike he might replace vintage tires with modern technology. Often charging systems are upgraded for usefulness and longevity. And some guys just can't play by the rules.
Jim Watson was a master restoration expert. He documented every build aspect, which is a damn good notion. Mike Egan, master H-D restoration expert always recommends photographing each restoration aspect from the teardown up, then combining the photography with copious note-taking. Since it often takes months or years to find parts, the restoration process can languish; consequently, documentation is a major memory enhancer, and Jim mastered it with a complete portfolio of his builds. A major manuscript covering every element of this restoration still exists.
Like the guy who was determined to win the Grand National Roadster show with his hot rod, Jim was unwavering in his desire to restore his Cleveland to level above the original. This small rider motorcycle represents what factory engineer's sought in detail and quality levels, but could never reach due to time constraints and pricing restrictions. Imagine the refined detail on a stock Harley if bean-counters weren't involved.
1921 CLEVELAND TECH SHEET
Year/model: 1921 Cleveland Model E
Engine: Two-stroke
Displacement: 270cc
Transmission: Two-speed
Final drive: Chain
Electrical: Magneto
Frame: Rigid (53″ wheelbase)
Brakes: Single band
Wheels/tires: 2.50-23″
Between Laughlin and Cottonwood, I finally rolled around to cutting the front of the tanks to make room for fork stops with the Paughco narrow springer. As it stood the springer stops would smack the Factory Racer tanks, and my turning radius was shot. I went to work with a Makita cut- off saw and a plasma cutter to slice a new piece of 14-or 16-gauge steel for the replacement. The tanks were painted and that fucked with my MIG welding. Always clear the paint away from the welding area. The smoke from the heated paint messes with the pure oxygen and gas required for proper penetration. I'll work on that more with the next tank.
I'm getting close to making some final welds, while praying that a TIG welder will wander into my shop. But first, I needed to drop in the Baker N1 drum for 5-speeds. This is the simplest modification on earth. It's so easy even I could do it, amazing. These N1 drums… well I'll let Trish Horstman and James Simonelli tell you the facts:
Five years ago we developed the N1 drum for drag racers and street racers who used our 6-speed overdrive. The N1 shift pattern (Neutral- 1-2-3-4-5-6) was designed to prevent false neutrals during aggressive 1-2 upshifts by positioning neutral under 1st.
The jockey shift/foot clutch crowd soon discovered the benefits of the N1 pattern. The big lever ratio of a jockey shift lever desensitizes the feel of the detents in the transmission such that finding neutral is a crapshoot with bad odds. With neutral on bottom (or all the way forward), the jockey shifter can mindlessly tap all the way down to neutral thus allowing him to put both feet on the ground as he rolls up to the stop light.
Today, a whole new crowd is realizing the benefits of the N1 pattern. Pingel’s electric shifter is slicker-than-snot and appeals to racers as well as those with restricted movement in their left foot and left hand. Utilizing an N1 drum in conjunction with Pingel’s electric shifter makes finding neutral (with the solenoid) seamless, and yields a solenoid-actuated shift system that almost makes foot shifting obsolete.
PN DESCRIPTION FITMENT
5-6QT-A N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 6-speed BAKER 6-spd overdrive except*
5-6QT-A1 N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 6-speed *Old 6-into-4 (S&S case) & Frankentranny
124-OD6RN1-A N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 6- speed RSD right-side Drive 6-speed, 2nd generation
124-DD6N1 N1 drum & pillow block assembly, DD6 DD6, all
2-5R-N1 N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 5-speed Single pole neutral switch 5-spds
2-5RL-N1 N1 drum & pillow block assembly, 5-speed Double pole neutral switch 5-spds
FEATURES/NOTES:
– N1 shift system option available at no additional cost with purchase of a complete transmission or builder’s kit
– 5-speed N1 shift systems fit H-D 5-speeds and BAKER 5-speeds
– For aggressive shifting we also recommend the use of our anti-overshift ratchet pawl, PN 555-56A for 5-speeds through 1999 and 555-56L for 5- speeds 2000-up. For example, this pawl mechanically prevents an unintended 1-3 up shift during an intended 1-2 upshift
Okay, so I popped off the ¼-20 Allens off the top of the tranny cap. Since, within five fasteners there were three sizes, I placed them neatly in the battery pan to prevent mixing up the formula. The lid came right off.
Then the four 7/16 hex heads need to be removed and the drum and pillow blocks came off as a single unit. Don't forget to lift the shifting arm, and keep it up when you replace the drum.
It might feel slightly snug to remove since there are guide inserts pressed into the case to hold the drum perfectly aligned. I studied the drum as I removed it and set it in exactly the same position on the bench to insure I put the new N1 drum back exactly the same way.
I told myself the old mechanic's rule as I replaced the drum and aligned the shifting forks: Don't force anything, jackass. I carefully aligned the shifting forks, then made sure the pillow blocks fit comfortable over the inserts before rolling the fasteners back into place and torquing them to 130 inch pound of torque or 10.8 foot pounds.
I smeared a dab of tranny oil on the lip of the transmission lid and slipped it into place, then tightened the fasteners to 130-inch pounds of torque. Oh, I forgot. I replaced the standard vent with something brass, mechanical, and vintage. What the hell. I'm going for that vintage appearance.
That's it for this installment. Next, I will install an Exile sprotor rear brake and 48-tooth sprocket. I'll finish all my welds, strip her down, and head to powder coating and paint. I have the color scheme down. It's going to be wild. I've also promised not to hit any more events between now and Sturgis for maximum shop time. We'll see if I run out of whiskey and women or not. Hang on.
